Backstage at the Doo.Ri spring/summer 2011 collection at New York's Mercedes Benz Fashion Week, a washed-out face and slept-in bed hair served as a neutral palette so as not to compete with ivory and pastel clothing that took center attention.
MAKEUP: Tom Pecheux for MAC Cosmetics
HAIR: Orlando Pita
NAILS: Jin Soon Choi for Zoya
SNAPSHOT: The Morning-After City Girl
THE SCOOP: Always sensibly yet sensually designed, Doo-Ri Chung's drapey creations greet spring in shades of vanilla, beige, and a bouquet of lightened-up pastels - and makeup and nails act as a pale background to enhance the fabrics.
Chung requested a washed-out minimal look for makeup, and for hair and nails to act almost like clothes hangers for the floaty looks models would wear down the runway. Makeup was monochromatic and yet still looked alive, with a satin finish to skin and touches of mustard on the centre lip and inner eye corners for an unexpected kick. "We wanted the girls to look washed-out, yet still have a bit of colour that breathed through," said Pecheux.
Right before the models stepped onto the runway, makeup artists added a dab of clear gloss over the eyelid to enliven the look and reflect light to complement the clothes.
Hair resembled a messy ponytail that had been slept on all night, with plenty of back-combing texture and pieces falling carelessly out of the front. The style must have hit the perfect morning-after note, as a couple of models were seen snoozing in chairs while getting their finger tips and toes painted.
Nails continued the neutral trend, with just a coat of fleshy nude nail polish to very subtly add polish to hands. "Doo-Ri asked me to do a very natural yet not predictable colour -- so I stayed away from the usual sheer white or pink. The creamy nude shade is all about simple elegance, and elongates the look of the fingers," said Soon Choi.
GET THE LOOK - MAKEUP: All makeup by MAC Cosmetics. Use a cream foundation and concealer for a flawless skin finish, in a shade slightly lighter than your natural tone. Apply a vanilla cream eyeshadow all over lid, and add concealer to the inside corners. Apply pastel Derailed and Ochre eyeshadows on the lid, taking care to blend until the shades wash out. Add a touch of mustard and orange to the center of the lid for a burst of life. Erase lips with vanilla cream, and then touch the mustard shade to the center of both top and bottom lips for unexpected color.
GET THE LOOK - HAIR: Finger-comb hair back into a low ponytail, and secure with an elastic. Gently pull hair out from the sides for a disheveled look, and allow some pieces around the face to completely fall out. Spray sides with T3 hair spray, so that fly-a-ways stay smooth.
GET THE LOOK - NAILS: File nails down to a short length with a naturally rounded shape. Then add just one coat of Zoya's Sally nail polish for a healthy look.