Beth Ditto struts her stuff at Gaultier, Viktor & Rolf take the white shirt to new extremes and Haider Ackermann does pjs for the red carpet. Here are the highlights from day four of the Paris shows...
L-R: Viktor & Rolf, Jean-Paul Gaultier (both Getty Images), Sonia Rykiel (AFP/Getty) and Junya Watanabe (AP)
Shirting the issue: The classic white and pinstriped shirt got a major makeover at Viktor & Rolf, who presented a theatrical take on the wardrobe staple with multiple collars and cuffs, embellished fabrics and exaggerated shirt-tails. They also morphed the shirt into everything from a body-con dress with black sequins to a dramatic, width-of-the-runway wedding dress made from shirt-tails, complete with pearl-studded collars.
Celeb spotting: Geri Halliwell at Viktor & Rolf, Janet Jackson at Haider Ackermann and Beth Ditto strolling down the catwalk at Gaultier in a laser-cut silver dress and tulle teddy for the finale, singing a cappella. Gaultier's hodgepodge of references included Joan Jett-style wigs and music (and other rocker accoutrements like Doc Martens, biker jackets and lace body stockings), galaxy prints (which popped if you put on the 3-D glasses which accompanied the invites), lingerie, palm print dresses and Gaultier staples like trenches and nautical stripes.
Japanese, if you please: There were plenty of references to Japonisme at yesterday's shows, from Hussein Chalayan's conceptual film inspired by Japan's isolationist period between 1633 and 1853 to Sonia Rykiel's obi-style belts and Asian-inspired hats with tassels, which accessorised her lovely knits. Meanwhile, Junya Watanabe's "Tokyo dolls" wore plenty of stripes, topped off with crazy-coloured wigs and obscured faces; Rei Kawakubo's Comme des Garçons collection evoked multiple personalities by turning clothes upside down; Tao Kurihara went super feminine with Victorian silhouettes topped with lace, ruffles, flowers and Marie Antoinette-esque updos; and Tsumori Chisato celebrated 20 years in fashion with a mix of Left Bank chic and cartoonish prints.
Beauty sleep: We'd all love to spend the day in our pajamas every now and again, but how about going out on the town in them? Thanks to Haider Ackermann's beautiful silk creations in gorgeous hues -- rich red, purple, blue, emerald green, yellow -- we can, and the look will be effortlessly polished. For those who want a dramatic gown, Ackermann also delivered navel-plunging and back-baring dresses with endless sex appeal.
Baby boom: Vanessa Seward's s/s 2011 collection for Azzaro had a youthful feel, no surprise considering it was inspired in part by her baby daughter. Ruffles and bows made minidresses super sweet, but a backless halter dress and sheer tulle V-neck insert mini were for adult eyes only.
Golden age: British designer Richard Nicoll is back at Cerruti for a second season, and we love the geometric print body-con dresses he showed, inspired by '40s Hollywood costumier, Adrian.