Stefano Pilati revisits classic YSL, Giles makes his debut at Ungaro and Stella gets fruity for spring. Here are the highlights from day six at the Paris shows...
Fruit salad: Stella McCartney knows how to make the kinds of clothes that women like her, with careers and families, want to wear. For spring, this translated as practical, tailored separates in pastel hues, breezy silk print dresses slashed to the upper thigh and a vibrant orange and lemon print scattered across jackets and dresses, which packed just the right amount of zest for spring.
In the clouds: Kaito Hori and Iku Furudate went windblown for spring, with parachute silks, billowing cocktail dresses, windbreakers and trackie bottoms complete with backpacks and harnesses for their Commuun label. What's more, all of the high-tech fabrications the designers used were made from organic materials.
Homage to YSL: Everyone's enamoured of Stefano Pilati's highly accomplished collection for Yves Saint Laurent, which paid homage to the iconic designer by revisiting his signature looks (trench coats, gypsy dresses, jumpsuits) and imbuing them with his own modern vision. From sheer blouses to backless jumpsuits to thigh-slit skirts (with pockets cleverly placed above the slit), there was a lot of sensuality in the collection. The strawberry-scattered cotton dresses of last summer have been replaced with a new thumbprint print.
Social set: Giambattista Valli's front-row included Josephine de la Baume, Tallulah Harlech and Olivia Palermo, who are exactly the type of girls who will be wearing his spring/summer 2011 collection of 60s-meet-the-future silhouettes, with mini shift dresses in bright colours and jungle and baroque prints mixed in. For evening, he transformed florals into bulbous bodices and floor-sweeping skirts.
Celeb spotting: Claudia Schiffer, Florence Welch, Jade Jagger and Janet Jackson at Yves Saint Laurent, Sir Paul McCartney, Beth Ditto, Liv Tyler and Salma Hayek at Stella, Duran Duran rocking the Fendi bash in honour of new women's fragrance Fan de Fendi, with guests like Alber Elbaz, Lou Doillon and Jade Jagger and Courtney Love performing at Mariacarla Boscono's surprise birthday party, thrown by Givenchy's Riccardo Tisci.
Model moment: Vogue Nippon's Anna Dello Russo hit the Ungaro catwalk (or rather, the grassy, flowery knoll) clutching a pooch purse, along with models Dree Hemingway, Alessandra Ambrosio and Kirsten Owen. The unusual model casting wasn't the only thing that seemed new and fresh: Deacon delivered just the right combination of charm and Frenchness in his debut collection for the label, with gorgeous flapper style sheaths and lace looks with floral appliqués, perfect for the decadent party girl of another era (it made one forget that Lindsay Lohan-gate was just last year).
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