Sarah Burton Takes McQueen Into A New Era

The prospect of filling the shoes of one of the world's great fashion names would make even the cockiest of designers tremble. But Sarah Burton withstood the pressure with grace and flair, as she presented the first Alexander McQueen collection without Lee McQueen at the helm.

Burton had worked with McQueen for 15 years and it shows, with his handwriting visible throughout. There were narrow tailcoats, low-rise trousers, dramatic gowns with insect-like structured silhouettes, with plenty of feather embellishment, intricate brocade, leather and lace – all held together with the dark narrative of mystic paganism. But it wasn't all McQueen, Burton's perspective came through, with softer feminine lines and a new sense of fragility.

As first steps go, we think Burton trod a near perfect path.