Galliano's final collection for Dior. Photo: Getty Images
DESIGNER: Steeped in scandal, this was John Galliano's final collection for Dior. Amid tight security and a heavy police presence, the fashion house's CEO Sidney Toledo addressed the audience before: "What has happened over the last week has been a terrible and wrenching ordeal for us all. It has been deeply painful to see the Dior name associated with the disgraceful statements attributed to its designer, however brilliant he may be." Instead, in what could be described as a stellar PR move, he focused on the people working behind-the-scenes to make the runway collection happen, before he invited them, white-coated, onto the stage.
"The heart of the House of Dior, which beats unseen, is made up of its teams and studios, of its seamstresses and craftsmen, who work hard day after day, never counting the hours, and carrying on the values and the vision of Monsieur Dior." Toledo continued. "What you are going to see now is the result of the extraordinary, creative, and marvellous efforts of these loyal, hardworking people".
INSPIRATION: This was a show about the fashion house's heritage, but the mood was sombre and muted.
TOP LOOKS: While Dior shows are usually led by a plethora delicate evening gowns, autumn/winter focused on daywear. Hooded cloaks, bouclé suits, girlish pleated skirts, olive suede frock coats and silk bloomers tucked into leather boots. The palette was rich and autumnal, with plenty of claret, bottle green and brown and fur trims liberally applied throughout.
WHO WAS THERE: Anna Wintour and her daughter Bee, Anna Della Russo and Natalia Vodianova were amongst the high profile attendees.
WHAT WE THOUGHT: On its own, this was a strong collection on wearable daywear, with rich opulent colours, and easy, slouchy silhouettes. But its poignancy transcended the clothes. This was fashion history in the making, and whatever your take on Galliano's designs following the past weeks' events, one thing is for certain: Dior has been forced to enter an entirely new era.