From whipped up sculptural masterpieces to obsessively pared-down tresses, this is how we'll be wearing it next season.
Sometimes less is more when it comes to fashion-forward tresses. Probably the most directional trend that we saw this season was (happily) the most simple. Poker-straight hair was parted down the middle and pushed behind the ears to fall down the back. The result? An utterly modern take on restrained elegance that focuses attentions on the natural gloss of your mane.
We're talking extreme here. A slicked-down, vampy side sweep was the 'do du jour at a gaggle of London's hot-ticket shows - from Tom Ford to JW Anderson. This high impact look is an incredibly easy way to update your current style with minimal effort. It's also just the job if you're growing out a fringe – just accessorise with a kirby grip and you're away. If the slicked-down styling is too severe for your face-shape, there were plenty of softer styles that used a deep parting. We loved Jonathan Saunders' modern vamps with their Veronica Lake waves, and Felder Felder's soft side waves managed to simultaneously be both flattering and edgy.
Less a specific style and more of a f*ck you attitude, grunge girls like Kim Gordon, Justine Frischmann, Juliette Lewis and Courtney Love are nodded to in this cool girl anti-trend. Tapping into the '90s attitude that trying too hard is the route to perpetual uncoolness, models were styled to look like, well, they hadn't been styled at all. Unbrushed hair was parted in the middle or featured a choppy unkempt fringe as if it had been dried from wet – and as if its owner had been up all night. This is the distant cousin of our Poker Players trend, but with less gloss and more attitude.
Hair is just one facet of a complete catwalk look; sometimes it's allowed to shout from the roof tops, while at other times it needs to be a little bit more discreet and let the clothes do the talking. The maximalist trends that dominated many of the London shows mean that for Autumn/Winter, we're saw a lot of more of the latter. The more-is-more approach to print, texture and layers means that styling needed to provide a laid back foil to this maximalist approach. Models sported impulsively scraped up with hair that was deliberately teased and messy. The effect was effortless, rebellious, and just a little bit punk.
While the majority of shows let their clothes shout from the rooftops and kept the hair fairly restrained, there was a handful of renegades that want the hairstyling to have some fun. What emerged was an approach to styling that approach that treated hair as if it could be manipulated into mini sculpture. At L'Wren Scott it was all about hyper disco volume while at Vivienne Westwood and Louise Gray, this approach saw curled pin-up style scrunched and exaggerated out of all proportions. And at Sophia Webster's presentation the multicoloured cones transformed the models into whimsical beings that we're 99% sure were directly descent from unicorns.