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  <title>Christine de Leon</title>
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  <updated>2013-05-24T19:13:50-04:00</updated>
  <author>
    <name>Christine de Leon</name>
  </author>
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<entry>
    <title>Four Alternatives to a Primark Boycott</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.huffingtonpost.co.uk/christine-de-leon/primark-boycott-four-alternatives-_b_3176558.html"/>
    <id>tag:www.huffingtonpost.com,2013:/theblog//3.3176558</id>
    <published>2013-04-29T19:00:00-04:00</published>
    <updated>2013-04-30T03:43:50-04:00</updated>
    <summary><![CDATA[Some have suggested a consumer boycott of Bangladeshi garments at these retailers, but a boycott could be counter-productive because doing so could jeopardise the job security of the garment workers. The best course of action is to put consumer pressure on Primark. We can't shift our society's addiction to cheap fashion overnight, but we can insist that as the buyers, Primark must put pressure on their supply chain to adhere to the basic tenets of a safe working environment.]]></summary>
    <author>
        <name>Christine de Leon</name>
        <uri>http://www.huffingtonpost.com/christine-de-leon/</uri>
    </author>
    <content type="html" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/christine-de-leon/"><![CDATA[Over the last few days I have been following reports of the Rana Plaza factory collapsing in on hundreds of garment workers in Savar, near the Bangladeshi capital Dhaka. Immediate reactions to the disaster began to cropping up on Twitter in the morning of the disaster. By the end of the day, the tragedy made international headlines. As I write this, rescue efforts are in vain and it is suggested that there may be up to 1000 dead and hundreds more still alive under the rubble. This is the second Ready Made Garment (RMG) industrial disaster in only five months - last December, the Tazreen factory fire in Dhaka claimed 112 lives. <br />
<br />
The fire has chilling parallels to New York City's Triangle Shirtwaist Factory fire of 1911. 140 garment workers, mostly young Italian and Jewish immigrant girls, lost their lives because the managers blocked the exits to stairwells and fire escapes to prevent their employees from taking breaks. The fire resulted in the organisation of the largest garment workers union in America and had a significant impact on worker safety protection laws in the United States.<br />
<br />
I wonder what the long-term impact the Tazreen Factory fire and the Raza Plaza disaster will have on corporate responsibility and government legislation in Bangladesh. To date, only the European retailers have paid compensation to the fire victims, retail buyers have lobbied aggressively against reforms of workplace safety in Bangladeshi legislation and unions seem to be ineffective. Unlike the last century, the ability of the labour movement to affect change in the workplace is mitigated by powerful lobby groups and government corruption.<br />
<br />
Today, the Pakistani government announced the arrests of the factory owners, which key labour organisers dismiss as a 'PR stunt'. It is widely known and an accepted practice that industrialists will just pay bribes to the health and safety government inspectors. According to Ifty Islam of Asian Tiger Capital Partners writing in the ft.com,  more than 10% of Bangladeshi MPs are factory owners; many more have financial interests in the industry, as do some government officials. <br />
<br />
It appears then that local industry and government are in each others pockets, and multinational corporations are not willing to collaborate with unions to uphold safety in the workplace. Those of us who are morally outraged by these events feel frustrated by the lack of tools to affect change. We know that at the heart of this tragedy is the knock on effect of our consumer culture: the purchase of a &pound;2 t-shirt at Primark causes the death of 350 human beings halfway around the world. This is unacceptable. So, what can be done?<br />
<br />
The responsibility lies chiefly the global retailers and their Bangladeshi RMG suppliers. Some have suggested a consumer boycott of Bangladeshi garments at these retailers, but a boycott could be counter-productive because doing so could jeopardise the job security of the garment workers. The best course of action is to put consumer pressure on Primark. We can't shift our society's addiction to cheap fashion overnight, but we can insist that as the buyers, Primark must put pressure on their supply chain to adhere to the basic tenets of a safe working environment. Here are four alternatives to a boycott:<br />
<br />
As a consumer, pressure the corporation. You can write to <a href="http://www.primark-ethicaltrading.co.uk/newsfaq/contact_us" target="_hplink">Primark</a> and insist they take full responsibility for their entire supply chain.<br />
<br />
As a British citizen and/or UK tax-payer, pressure the UK government. You can also write about your concerns to both the <a href="http://www.justinegreening.co.uk/" target="_hplink">Right Honourable MP Justine Greening</a>, secretary of state for international development and the <a href="http://www.publications.parliament.uk/pa/cm/cmallparty/register/ethics-and-sustainability-in-fashion.htm" target="_hplink">All Parliamentary Group on Ethics and Sustainability in Fashion </a>and suggest they insist that they exert pressure on the <a href="http://www.ethicaltrade.org/about-eti " target="_hplink">Ethical Trading Initiative (ETI)</a> which is funded largely by the Department for International Development. Call for the suspension of Primark's membership to the ETI until they improve their working practices.<br />
<br />
As a world citizen, write to the <a href="http://www.bgmea.com.bd/home/pages/ContactUs#.UX2bxCuDRok" target="_hplink">Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA)</a>. They are the trade body for the RMG industry in Bangladesh. Urge them to fully collaborate with the Bangladeshi government in legislating for safer working conditions.<br />
<br />
As an activist, you can also sign the <a href="https://www.change.org/en-GB/petitions/primarkjobs-mango-matalan-ensure-safety-for-workers-compensate-victims-of-building-collapse#share " target="_hplink">Change.org</a> petition that was started by Amirul Haque Amin, President of the <a href="http://www.nadir.org/nadir/initiativ/agp/s26/banglad/#ngwf " target="_hplink">National Garment Workers Federation in Bangladesh</a>.]]></content>
    <link href="http://i.huffpost.com/gen/1105591/thumbs/s-BANGLADESH-BUILDING-COLLAPSE-mini.jpg" type="image/jpeg" rel="enclosure"/>
</entry>

<entry>
    <title>Made in England</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.huffingtonpost.co.uk/christine-de-leon/made-in-england_b_2804503.html"/>
    <id>tag:www.huffingtonpost.com,2013:/theblog//3.2804503</id>
    <published>2013-03-04T04:01:54-05:00</published>
    <updated>2013-05-03T05:12:01-04:00</updated>
    <summary><![CDATA[It is quicker and better to circumvent a murky supply chain altogether by reframing our love for fashion in two ways: first, decide that it is better to buy from independent designers rather than a multinational corporation and second, look for labels that are manufactured locally.]]></summary>
    <author>
        <name>Christine de Leon</name>
        <uri>http://www.huffingtonpost.com/christine-de-leon/</uri>
    </author>
    <content type="html" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/christine-de-leon/"><![CDATA[In the lead-up to London Fashion Week, global fashion retail giant Indetex said it would stop doing business with two subcontractors whose Bangladeshi factory killed seven garment workers. The appetite for cheap, disposable fashion is so ingrained in our culture of consumption, that companies like Indetex will only continue meet the volume this market demand by finding suppliers that drive down costs - even at the expense of human life. Rather than wait for Indetex imbed a pro-active corporate social responsibility programme, it is quicker and better to circumvent a murky supply chain altogether by reframing our love for fashion in two ways: first, decide that it is better to buy from independent designers rather than a multinational corporation and second, look for labels that are manufactured locally.<br />
<br />
My new discovery at this season's London Fashion Scout is the emerging designer<a href="http://christopherwaller.com/" target="_hplink"> Christopher Waller</a>. This small, independent label are committed to manufacturing all their pieces in London using UK and European sourced fabrics. "I'd say the biggest challenge for us is sourcing fabrics that we can order in small quantities," says Mark Dodds, Director. "European mills are often very flexible however the quality and innovation of fabric in Europe is still yet to be surpassed in my opinion".<br />
<br />
<img alt="2013-03-04-look5b_cw.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2013-03-04-look5b_cw.jpg" width="640" height="902" /><br />
<br />
The Autumn/Winter 2013 collection is made up of immaculately tailored jackets and colour block dresses which have echoes of London's mod past. The jackets are structured and attention to paneling in the trousers with a butter soft leather trim pocket detail will, I suspect become in time the label's signature piece. The masculinity of the jackets are countered by sensuous textures, soft leather and suede with a no-nonsense, weighty blend of natural fibres: mohair, cashmere and angora. The butter-soft leather detail is all sourced from the UK.<br />
<br />
<img alt="2013-03-04-look1bcw.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2013-03-04-look1bcw.jpg" width="640" height="967" /><br />
<br />
Meanwhile, at London Fashion Week, West London label <a href="http://www.beautiful-soul.co.uk/" target="_hplink">Beautiful Soul</a> has perfected its brand's offering. The label benefits from the solid business head on Creative Director Nicola Woods "our objective is to translate the brand's positive use of British and sustainable fabrics, UK production, British craftsmanship and intelligent, innovative design."<br />
<br />
<img alt="2013-03-04-AW13EmiDressLadybirdPeach.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2013-03-04-AW13EmiDressLadybirdPeach.jpg" width="640" height="965"<br />
<br />
I've been following Beautiful Soul for three seasons now, and the brand has moved on from one-off deconstructed vintage kimonos to more scalable designs. The Autumn/Winter 2013 has perfected Beautiful Soul's trademark feminine, floaty, silhouettes echo the 1970s Ossie Clarke tradition in the King's Road. <br />
<br />
<img alt="2013-03-04-AW13ManaTrenchBlackBritishlace.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2013-03-04-AW13ManaTrenchBlackBritishlace.jpg" width="640" height="965" /><br />
<br />
This season the British lace trenchcoat makes an appearance as does the maxi dress with a daring thigh-high slit. The label's floral patterns which hark to the perfect English garden at the height of summer beauty boldy go against the idea that florals aren't for the colder seasons.]]></content>
</entry>

<entry>
    <title>Treasure Vintage in the Age of Austerity</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.huffingtonpost.co.uk/christine-de-leon/treasure-vintage-in-the-a_b_2210298.html"/>
    <id>tag:www.huffingtonpost.com,2012:/theblog//3.2210298</id>
    <published>2012-11-30T12:13:07-05:00</published>
    <updated>2013-01-30T05:12:01-05:00</updated>
    <summary><![CDATA[It's safe to say that the festive season has begun. The office Christmas party is booked and New Year's Eve party invitations have been RSVP'd, so now the 'What will I wear?' question looms in the air, somewhere between your wardrobe as it is now and your bank account.]]></summary>
    <author>
        <name>Christine de Leon</name>
        <uri>http://www.huffingtonpost.com/christine-de-leon/</uri>
    </author>
    <content type="html" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/christine-de-leon/"><![CDATA[<img alt="2012-11-29-Modern_Marie2_NEW.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-11-29-Modern_Marie2_NEW.jpg" width="569" height="480" /><br />
Photo credit: Jolie Adele<br />
<br />
It's safe to say that the festive season has begun. The office Christmas party is booked and New Year's Eve party invitations have been RSVP'd, so now the 'What will I wear?' question looms in the air, somewhere between your wardrobe as it is now and your bank account.<br />
<br />
If you're feeling the pinch this year (Prosecco <em>is</em> a perfectly good substitute for Champagne), but you feel that you really must treat yourself to something new, then consider an old classic that will take you from one cocktail party to the next with a bit of clever accessorizing.  I teamed up with Toronto-based artistic consultant <a href="http://www.jolieadele.com/" target="_hplink">Jolie Adele</a> and vintage dress specialists <a href="http://www.facebook.com/spacesecret" target="_hplink">Sp_ace Vintage</a> to explore the idea of vintage party-wear this season in the context of a global recession. "It's a tongue-in-cheek, high fashion way of questioning our culture's over-consumption and excessive desires." says Jolie "This is even more prominent during the holiday season". <br />
<br />
Think of this party dress season as an opportunity to invest in a quality vintage cocktail dress that you can cherish forever. Vintage is absolutely the way to go, but I'm keen on the idea of resisting the notion that the Yuletide frock must be Santa red or the of New Year's Eve dress being a safe black. While we're on the topic of over-consumption, perhaps you could ask yourself if you really need two dresses this season? The correct answer of course, is no you do not. Use this opportunity to find that special piece that reflects who you really are in a classic sense. Are you a 1930s Marlene Dietrich or are you an early 1960s Audrey Hepburn? Perhaps you're an early 1980s Diana Ross disco diva?<br />
<br />
<img alt="2012-11-29-PartysOver_Jolie_Adele.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-11-29-PartysOver_Jolie_Adele.jpg" width="600" height="401" /><br />
Photo credit: Jolie Adele<br />
<br />
If you're a colour-phobe, consider a soft grey. But if colour is absolutely your thing, then trade in that Christmas crimson for a cross-seasonal fuschia. The beauty of these colours is that you can layer them with the darker hued winter luxury textiles like cashmere or alpaca in the colder months. For the summer, pair them with an open toe shoe and a lightweight white or cream knit cardigan or a starched white cotton blazer to take you from the office to the dancefloor.<br />
<br />
<img alt="2012-11-29-Sleepy_Doll2.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-11-29-Sleepy_Doll2.jpg" width="600" height="401" /><br />
Photo credit: Jolie Adele<br />
<br />
Finally, you musn't feel like you have to source the haute couture names (Valentino, Chanel, Dior, etc.) to make this work for your wardrobe. Incredibly skilled dressmakers were aplenty up until recent times and the piece you find will have been made by someone with an eye and passion for design and detail. Find a dress that suits you and if it needs to be taken in a bit, get yourself a good tailor who will fit it to your size.<br />
<br />
When the party is over, remember to get the dress cleaned and stored in your wardrobe on a wooden hanger and covered properly in a dress cover bag to keep of the dust and away from the moths. Your perfect vintage cocktail frock is essentially a museum piece that needs the appropriate storage and care so that you can continue to wear it time and again.]]></content>
    <link href="http://i.huffpost.com/gen/882922/thumbs/s-HOLIDAY-WINE-mini.jpg" type="image/jpeg" rel="enclosure"/>
</entry>

<entry>
    <title>The Classic Bride: Something Old, Something New, Something Borrowed, Something Blue</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.huffingtonpost.co.uk/christine-de-leon/sustainable-weddings-the-classic-bride-somethi_b_1714028.html"/>
    <id>tag:www.huffingtonpost.com,2012:/theblog//3.1714028</id>
    <published>2012-07-31T19:00:00-04:00</published>
    <updated>2012-09-30T05:12:04-04:00</updated>
    <summary><![CDATA[If you're walking down the aisle for the first time - or not as the case may be - I've got some sustainable wedding dresses for you to consider.]]></summary>
    <author>
        <name>Christine de Leon</name>
        <uri>http://www.huffingtonpost.com/christine-de-leon/</uri>
    </author>
    <content type="html" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/christine-de-leon/"><![CDATA[If you're walking down the aisle for the first time - or not as the case may be - I've got some sustainable wedding dresses for you to consider.<br />
<br />
The vintage bride should head straight to a small but perfectly curated shop in north London's Islington. <a href="http://penniesvintage.com/" target="_hplink">Pennies Vintage</a> relocated from their Camden Passage digs last year and according to the shop's Head Buyer, Oliver Ross, the business is diong quite well in Amwell Street.<blockquote> "Although we don't have so many customers as in Camden Passage, when they do come they are driven, so they tend to spend money." says Ross "Also, we are able to sell high-end vintage in the new shop because of the more congenial surroundings and the calmer atmosphere of Amwell Street."</blockquote><br />
<br />
<center><img alt="2012-07-28-pennies_2.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-07-28-pennies_2.jpg" width="450" height="600" /></center><br />
<br />
One of the key reasons to a sustained interest in vintage bridal wear is that according to Ross, what the bride is buying for her big day is completely unique. They aren't cookie cutter dresses and if they still as much, if not more currency in 2012, it's because the styles are classic and are of the highest quality. Oliver Ross sheds light on this fact:<br />
<br />
<blockquote>"The fabrics and construction tend to be much better than in new wedding dresses; for instance, the modern equivalents of the silk satins used in the 1930's can cost several hundred pounds a metre, and an entire dress could be an extremely expensive proposition. Therefore, most off-the-rack dresses use either cheap synthetics or low-grade silks, both of which are vastly inferior to the fabrics used in even the humblest dresses of the 1930&prime;s."</blockquote><br />
<br />
Pennies is a wonderful independent, local business that is full of charm and warmth. It has helped to redefine Amwell Street which has seen a recent influx of higher end crafting and bric-a-brac businesses as well as the other side of the spectrum, EC1 Lighting, a design-led lighting shop and Wallace+Sewell, a textile design studio.<br />
<br />
In terms of "something new", I've narrowed down two options: one for the bride on the budget and one for the luxurious bride.<br />
<br />
<img alt="2012-07-28-redcross1681x1024.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-07-28-redcross1681x1024.jpg" width="600" height="902" /><br />
<br />
The Red Cross charity shop in Chelsea is your go-to destination for a perfectly decent white dress donated by designers such as David Fielden or Tobi Hannah.<br />
<br />
According to Chelsea shop manager Cathy Shimmel, it's the perfect solution to a wedding on a shoe string budget:<br />
<br />
<blockquote>"The wedding dresses we have for sale are absolutely beautiful - if you're planning a wedding, you could save a fortune with some of our designer stock. It'll be a lot of fun, and an opportunity to find some really unusual pieces to bring a unique sense of style to your wedding."</blockquote><br />
<br />
The British Red Cross does a brilliant job of sourcing new dresses from willing labels who are keen to support their  fundraising efforts which go to British Red Cross projects in communities across Britain as well as overseas. So you can get a relatively inexpensive and positively cheerful dress and feel good about where the money you've paid for it is going.<br />
<br />
Now, if you've got a healthy budget and you know you wouldn't be caught dead in an off the peg dress, and you want something new, then <a href="http://www.tammam.co.uk/brides.html" target="_hplink">Atelier Tammam</a> is the place for you. The ethically focused couture studio and bridal boutique launched earlier this month in London's Bloomsbury. Here is your opportunity to create the dress of your dreams, made to measure and fitted to absolute perfection.<br />
<br />
<img alt="2012-07-28-tammam2682x1024.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-07-28-tammam2682x1024.jpg" width="600" height="902" /><br />
<br />
The forward fashion bridalwear label has been around since 2007, but Creative Director Lucy Tammam thought that it was time to step it up a notch and provide a luxurious space for brides to find their perfect gown. <blockquote>"Brides want the experience that comes with being in a dedicated space. Somewhere luxurious and decadent to try on the most important dress of their lives".</blockquote><br />
<br />
<img alt="2012-07-28-tammam3682x1024.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-07-28-tammam3682x1024.jpg" width="600" height="902" /><br />
 <br />
The gowns are made out of fabrics and embellishments from India and Nepal which Tammam painstakingly sources herself order to ensure they are fair trade, ethically produced, sustainable, vegetarian and environmentally friendly.<br />
<br />
I know it may seem a bit bizarre to the traditionalists among you, but why not hire a dress? You're effectively "borrowing" a dress (albeit for a fee). I met Suruchi Saxena who is one half of the team behind <a href="http://www.wishwantwear.com/wedding-boutique/" target="_hplink">WishWantWear</a> at London Fashion Week last February and their online luxury dress consignment business made a lot of sense to me. The website allows you to rent a beautiful designer dress for an event and they even deliver the garment to your door.<br />
<br />
<blockquote>"Wish Want Wear is all about allowing women to wear gorgeous dress and feel fabulous for the special occasions in their lives and what is more important in a woman's life than her wedding day! We have a range of dresses perfect for weddings and all the events surrounding it - engagements, bachelorette parties, bridal showers etc. So whether you are the bride, a bridesmaid, mother of the bride or a wedding guest, we have a fantastic selection of gorgeous current season designer dresses that you can hire for a fraction of the price." says co-founder Suruchi Baxter.</blockquote><br />
<br />
In this day and age, we all have the right to wear white, we don't have to - and this is where "something blue" comes in. Some people don't want a white wedding at all and have the guestlist down to their nine closest friends and family. You are the sort of bride who is likely to get married at the Chelsea Old Town Hall and then going on to at a well-appointed pub in Mayfair to clink glasses before flying down to the Seychelles for your honeymoon (just like the Duchess). This, my darling, is the dress for you.<br />
<br />
<img alt="2012-07-28-beautsoulblue.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-07-28-beautsoulblue.jpg" width="600" height="881" /><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.beautiful-soul.co.uk/" target="_hplink">Beautiful Soul</a>'s upcoming collection includes a romantic blue maxi dress which was inspired by the letters her respective grandmothers wrote to their husbands during the Second World War.<br />
<br />
<blockquote>"I drew inspiration from the love letters they each wrote in code to their sweethearts (my beloved grandfathers) whilst separated during the Second World War," says Nicola Woods, Designer. "As a sign of remembrance to Olivia and Rose, the unique Beautiful Soul London print this season, features the poppy, which was a favourite flower of both my grandmothers and a symbol of the British Legion campaign which they both supported. I believe the Poppy print makes a real statement in recognition of the fallen of the past and in preparation of a brighter and better future for our planet."</blockquote>]]></content>
    <link href="http://i.huffpost.com/gen/704994/thumbs/s-UNPLUGGED-WEDDINGS-mini.jpg" type="image/jpeg" rel="enclosure"/>
</entry>

<entry>
    <title>Fashion People Who Push the Environmental Agenda</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.huffingtonpost.co.uk/christine-de-leon/environment-fashion-people-who-push-the-agenda_b_1361067.html"/>
    <id>tag:www.huffingtonpost.com,2012:/theblog//3.1361067</id>
    <published>2012-03-19T19:00:00-04:00</published>
    <updated>2012-05-19T05:12:01-04:00</updated>
    <summary><![CDATA[The earth's resources can't sustain the hideous environmental impact of fast, cheap fashion. As our landfills reach capacity with our binned six-week-old Primark leggings, it feels very much to me like the healthy future of the environment is in the fibres in which we chose to clothe ourselves.]]></summary>
    <author>
        <name>Christine de Leon</name>
        <uri>http://www.huffingtonpost.com/christine-de-leon/</uri>
    </author>
    <content type="html" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/christine-de-leon/"><![CDATA[<a href="http://peaawards.co.uk/" target="_hplink">The People and Environment Awards (PEA)</a> take place this Wednesday in London, celebrating individuals who have demonstrated the importance of sustainability and who are already making a difference ahead of government and big business. Across the 12 categories, four finalists come from the fashion sector and are heralded in: Entrepreneur, Business and Arts, Music &amp; Fashion.<br />
<br />
This representation tells me that underneath one of the most consumer-driven, ostensibly shallow, elitist, and arguable exploitative industries on earth, a movement is brewing and we are witnessing a groundswell of change.<br />
<br />
Rebecca Gray, Founder of the website <a href="http://www.freshcargo.co.uk" target="_hplink">Fresh Cargo</a>, has been nominated for the Business Person of the Year. <br />
<br />
Gray started the business three years ago with a small start-up grant, sourcing only sustainable and ethical goods. She works closely with social enterprises in Africa and Southeast Asia to develop products for the European market to sell online. These range from handbags made from recycled juice packs, fair trade t-shirts and hemp flip-flops. Gray is up against Karen Lynch, a seasoned businesswoman who took the ethical bottled water company Belu from a hemmoraghing liability into a profit-making business. While Belu's collaborations with heavy-hitter charities like WaterAid are impressive - as is its reach of 20,000 beneficiaries - I prefer Gray's small-scale approach to empowering communities through social enterprise.<br />
<br />
Sven Segal, CEO and founder of the ecological footwear company <a href="http://po-zu.com/" target="_hplink">Po-Zu</a>, has been nominated for Entrepreneur of the Year. He's collaborated with Timberland and the more specialised urban cool Maharishi label. As the only creative in this category, he is up against YouGen - a one-stop shop for everything you need to know about renewable energy - and Permanent Publications, which offers a plethora of information about sustainability. These latter two businesses are useful in terms of raising consumer awareness raising and enabling informed choices. But Segal is making his mark with Timberland and Maharishi by collaborating with them on product design that will influence not only how we consume fashion, but more importantly how industry makes recycling integral to product lifespan.<br />
<br />
In the Arts, Music &amp; Fashion category there are only two nominees - both ethical and sustainable fashion pioneers. Gavin Lawson is CEO of the political streetwear label <a href="http://www.thtc.co.uk/" target="_hplink">THTC</a>  which he founded with his brother Dru Lawson in 1999. Orsola de Castro founded <a href="http://www.londonfashionweek.co.uk/estethica" target="_hplink">Estethica</a>, the sustainable fashion platform at London Fashion Week and is herself a designer, owning the luxury label <a href="http://fromsomewhere.co.uk/" target="_hplink">From Somewhere </a>which she founded with her husband Filippo Ricci in 1997.<br />
<br />
The judge's decision between Lawson and de Castro will be tough. de Castro has created an awareness of sustainable design in the high end of the fashion industry through the Estethica platform. As an educator, she is training the fashion designers of the future to carefully consider the impact their products will have on the environment by encouraging zero waste in product design. de Castro is a pioneer of upcycling textiles and over the years has worked tirelessly to progress the aesthetic of 'eco-fashion' from dowdy, shapeless entities to fashion forward designs. As a campaigner and a designer, her influence has arguably reached the upper echelons of the Hollywood set. This year several celebrities took on the 'Green Carpet Challenge' and wore sustainable gowns to high profile award events. This month's British Vogue has a feature section dedicated entirely to luxury sustainable fashion.<br />
<br />
Lawson is at the opposite end of the spectrum. A founding member of the Ethical Fashion Forum, he is an environmental activist whose street wear label THTC raises industry and consumer awareness about the benefits of hemp as viable alternative to cotton growing. On first glance THTC may seem like just a t-shirt company, but the central tenet to its success has been its uncompromising political message which is disseminated to a mass youth market through collaborative efforts with music genres dub, jungle and hip hop, the visual art of graffiti and the performing art of spoken word. As a brand, it is deeply connected to these urban art forms which reach a wide section of society. As our society's addiction to fast fashion increases, it is important that labels like THTC which boast a large cult following infiltrate the mass attitude about how purchases on the High Street impact climate change and living conditions for our fellow human beings.<br />
<br />
It is interesting that only fashion is represented in the Fashion, Music, Arts category. Granted, Lawson's work crosses into music and graphic design and de Castro's work is at the intersection of design and visual art. But why is there nothing on the list from the other leading art forms which have had a rich history of contributing to social and political change, such as theatre or film?<br />
<br />
Perhaps it is because clothes are a basic human necessity, something that we should all be entitled to. According to <a href="http://www.un.org/en/documents/udhr/index.shtml#a25" target="_hplink">Article 25 of the UN Charter</a> for human rights it is a fundamental human right. If this is to be true for all humanity, well, that's a lot of resources going to ensure we are all appropriately clothed. <br />
<br />
The earth's resources can't sustain the hideous environmental impact of fast, cheap fashion. As our landfills reach capacity with our binned six-week-old Primark leggings, our rivers dead from the byproducts of denim and leather and synthetic fibres like polyesters and acrylics increasing our dependency on oil, it feels very much to me like the healthy future of the environment is in the fibres in which we chose to clothe ourselves.]]></content>
</entry>

<entry>
    <title>London Fashion Week Day Three: Estethica Rules the Roost</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.huffingtonpost.co.uk/christine-de-leon/london-fashion-week-estethica-day-2_1_b_1288670.html"/>
    <id>tag:www.huffingtonpost.com,2012:/theblog//3.1288670</id>
    <published>2012-02-20T19:00:00-05:00</published>
    <updated>2012-04-21T05:12:02-04:00</updated>
    <summary><![CDATA[I met Audrey Hepburn on Day Three of London Fashion Week at a fashion party in Somerset House. As we all know Audrey is a style icon, so what could be a better way to inspire the next couple of days of Oxfam London Fashion Week challenge?]]></summary>
    <author>
        <name>Christine de Leon</name>
        <uri>http://www.huffingtonpost.com/christine-de-leon/</uri>
    </author>
    <content type="html" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/christine-de-leon/"><![CDATA[I met <a href="http://iamaudreyhepburn.com/" target="_hplink">Audrey Hepburn</a> on Day Three of London Fashion Week at a fashion party in Somerset House. As we all know Audrey is a style icon, so what could be a better way to inspire the next couple of days of Oxfam London Fashion Week challenge?<br />
<br />
<center><img alt="2012-02-20-Day3.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-02-20-Day3.jpg" width="500" height="752" /></center><br />
Photo credit: Paul Allen<br />
<br />
It's been my best day of the week so far. It started off with the Prophetik show first thing in the morning at Vauxhall Fashion Scout. I brought my daughter to the show so she could see that it is possible to have high fashion that is responsible about its impact on the earth's resources.<br />
<br />
The show was followed by a particularly hilarious episode of trying to find a restaurant in Covent Garden that would seat a party of 10 without a lunch reservation (contrary to popular belief, the fashion set do eat). Then it was off to the <a href="http://www.ecoluxelondon.org/" target="_hplink">Ecoluxe</a> exhibition, which was a great opportunity to discover some new sustainable designers pitched at the luxury end of the market. Susie Lau, fashion blogger, hosted a small reception at the <a href="http://www.londonfashionweek.co.uk/estethica" target="_hplink">Estethica</a> showroom in Somerset House. <br />
<br />
This is Estethica's sixth year to have a dedicated space at London Fashion Week and according to Estethica's founder and curator Orsola de Castro, it is the strongest year yet. Some eyebrows have been raised over the weekend at how severely scaled down the showroom is in comparison to past seasons. <br />
<br />
However, the labels who have crystalised their business models and who have the broadest international appeal are showing this year such as Ada Zanditon, Patachuti, Junky Styling, Henrietta Ludgate and Joanna Cave. These designers are definitely market-ready and should orders from buyers from the Middle East or China come in, they'll be in a place to deliver.<br />
<br />
Now for the rundown on what I wore on Day Three of the challenge:<br />
<br />
Oxfam:  The dress is by Biba and it is from the Oxfam Vintage Collection.<br />
<br />
Vintage:  The Lanvin shoes were a gift and a charity shop find.<br />
<br />
Heritage:  The earrings and the ring were a gift from my mother on my wedding day. These were passed down to her from my grandmother. The ring was designed by my grandfather which he had made by a jeweller in Manila just before the Second World War. The earrings belonged to my grandmother's mother. My grandparents lost a lot during the Japanese occupation, but my grandmother was able to save these small jewels when they were evacuated from Manila to the countryside.<br />
<br />
Challenge cheats: The tights are new and from House of Holland.]]></content>
</entry>

<entry>
    <title>London Fashion Week Day 1: Glad Rags in the Age of Austerity</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.huffingtonpost.co.uk/christine-de-leon/london-fashion-week-ethical-fashion-glad-rags-in-the-age-of-a_b_1285211.html"/>
    <id>tag:www.huffingtonpost.com,2012:/theblog//3.1285211</id>
    <published>2012-02-19T19:00:00-05:00</published>
    <updated>2012-04-20T05:12:01-04:00</updated>
    <summary><![CDATA[The beauty of second-hand clothes lies somewhere between owning a timeless classic and being creative with your personal style while on a budget. Plus, there is the added feel good factor of knowing you are saving a garment from the landfill and in doing so, you are supporting a good cause.]]></summary>
    <author>
        <name>Christine de Leon</name>
        <uri>http://www.huffingtonpost.com/christine-de-leon/</uri>
    </author>
    <content type="html" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/christine-de-leon/"><![CDATA[<a href="http://www.oxfam.org.uk/shop/" target="_hplink">Oxfam,</a> the Mecca of all charity shops, asked me to take part in their London Fashion Week Challenge which is to wear at least one piece from their vintage collection to the shows. I've always had a penchant for vintage clothing and a good charity shop find, much to my mother's horror she could never understand why I would want to wear a (possibly dead) stranger's clothes. <br />
<br />
The beauty of second-hand clothes lies somewhere between owning a timeless classic and being creative with your personal style while on a budget. Plus, there is the added feel good factor of knowing you are saving a garment from the landfill and in doing so, you are supporting a good cause. The danger of second-hand clothes is that you can look like a jumble sale gone wrong or, in the case of vintage, styling has to be on a knife-edge or else you risk looking like an extra off the set of a period costume drama.<br />
<br />
<img alt="2012-02-17-LFWDAY1.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-02-17-LFWDAY1.jpg" width="450" height="677" /><br />
(Photo credit: <a href="http://billabaldwin.com/billabaldwin/billabaldwin.com.html" target="_hplink">billa</a>)  <br />
<br />
Stylist and image consultant Alex Smith, founder of sustainable fashion buying consultancy  <a href="http://www.consideredstyle.com/" target="_hplink">Considered Style</a>, was a key player in delivering new products for Oxfam's sustainable fashion boutiques. She was kind enough to lend me five pearls of wisdom when styling and wearing vintage.<br />
<br />
<ul><li>The fabric and shape need to look either look like or be high quality. Go for great details and prints if they're in really good condition. Aged and careworn has to be styled across the outfit to look deliberate. Randomly stained and tatty clothes look exactly that.</li><br />
<br />
<li>It has to fit and flatter you, you have to wear it,  not the other way around -  unless you want to look deliberately dramatic.</li><br />
<br />
<li>Reference an overall silhouette from an era, mix with modern pieces which can still come from Oxfam. Check hemline, waist and cuffs, they still need to be in proportion to the person and look right now in terms of lengths. Get them altered if they aren't right.</li><br />
<br />
<li>Keep it up to date mix with a modern detail/accessory/trimfrom a different era. </li><br />
<br />
<li>One oversized accessory per outfit, no matter whether that's shoes, bag, jewellery, is enough. More than that is potential fancy dress territory.  </li></ul><br />
<br />
I chose to wear this vintage Ghost dress from the Oxfam Collection today because of the colour and the draping as a nod to <a href="http://wp.me/p11FQ9-sr" target="_hplink">Bora Aksu's show</a>. Bora does great work with ethical fashion label People Tree and his signature draping can be found on the label's specially commissioned pieces.  The shoes are Radley and I picked them up at Oxfam in West London earlier this year. The Perspex orange bracelet I found at Oxfam in Covent Garden yesterday for 99p. The bowler hat is 100% wool and I borrowed it from a friend. The necklace is a heritage piece - it is a traditional, hand woven textile from the Visayan region of the Philippines where my grandmother is from.<br />
<br />
<em>You can read Christine's Day 2 entry here.<a href="http://www.huffingtonpost.co.uk/christine-de-leon/london-fashion-week-day-2_b_1287275.html" target="_hplink">Christine's Day 2 entry here</a></em>]]></content>
    <link href="http://i.huffpost.com/gen/475818/thumbs/s-EBAY-VINTAGE-mini.jpg" type="image/jpeg" rel="enclosure"/>
</entry>

<entry>
    <title>London Fashion Week Day 2: When Off-Schedule is Just 'Off'</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.huffingtonpost.co.uk/christine-de-leon/london-fashion-week-day-2_b_1287275.html"/>
    <id>tag:www.huffingtonpost.com,2012:/theblog//3.1287275</id>
    <published>2012-02-19T19:00:00-05:00</published>
    <updated>2012-04-20T05:12:01-04:00</updated>
    <summary><![CDATA[The largest off-schedule event at London Fashion Week this year was The Good Fashion Show, a public event dedicated to eco-fashion. ]]></summary>
    <author>
        <name>Christine de Leon</name>
        <uri>http://www.huffingtonpost.com/christine-de-leon/</uri>
    </author>
    <content type="html" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/christine-de-leon/"><![CDATA[The largest off-schedule event at London Fashion Week this year was <a href="http://www.thegoodfashionshow.org/" target="_hplink">The Good Fashion Show</a>, a public event dedicated to eco-fashion. As an advocate for sustainable fashion, part of the excitement in this sector of the fashion business is that in recent years 'eco' and 'ethical' hasn't had to compromise on directional style. The stereotype of green fashion as being a niche style only dred-locked, commune-living, vegan activists wear has finally been laid to rest. Unfortunately, The Good Fashion Show 'emporium' event did a lot to reverse that progress.<br />
<br />
<center><img alt="2012-02-19-Day2.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-02-19-Day2.jpg" width="400" height="600" /></center><br />
(Photo credit: Nathan Black)<br />
<br />
As I walked in to the venue, the first stalls I saw were handmade baskets and vintage lace, both lovely, but the message all my senses instantly received was 'craft fair'. The lack of curation of this event meant that in each room, directional, sustainable fashion designers and vintage clothes sellers were squeezed in very tightly next to card designers, upcycled garments and vintage pottery. It looked and felt like a jumble sale at the town hall, but with a champange bar. For The Good Fashion Show to market itself as an alternative venue to London Fashion Week, this was an epic fail.<br />
<br />
Having said that, there were a handful of gems I picked out of the heap. <a href="http://www.outsiderfashion.com/" target="_hplink">Outsider Fashion</a> had a stall. The clothes are made using organic, ethically sourced material and are cut to really flatter the female figure with its contemporary, sleek design. <a href="http://www.kokku.co.uk" target="_hplink">Kokku </a> jewellery had designs that melded traditional Sardinian filigree methods with the contemporary. Online boutique <a href="http://www.fashioncompassion.co.uk/" target="_hplink">FashionCompassion</a> who support social enterprises in Pakistan, had thier artisan LuckNow handbags which use traditional embroidery methods to create clutches that have a glam punk look to them. For street styling I found the best of the lot were eco-fashion tees <a href="http://www.thtc.co.uk/" target="_hplink">'THTC'</a> had some edgy upcycled women's tops and bag designer <a href="http://ninabloom.com/" target="_hplink">Nina Bloom</a>.<br />
<br />
What I do like about the concept of The Good Fashion Show is its valiant attempt at democratising the London Fashion Week machine. While the exhibits at Somerset House are strictly for buyers and press, this off-schedule event created access for the general public during the week, offering a few stylish alternatives to the High Street.<br />
<br />
For Day 2 of the Oxfam Fashion Week Challenge I am wearing:<br />
<strong>Oxfam pieces:</strong><br />
The cream shirt and the white brogues are from the Oxfam Vintage Collection, the black trousers are Hobbs and also from Oxfam.<br />
<br />
<strong>Challenge cheats:</strong><br />
The graphic tee is new and it's from HeavyEco.<br />
<br />
The socks are new and from a Swedish brand called Happy Socks. According to thier website, their socks are are manufactured in Turkey at a family-driven factory that has been in the business for more than 30 years. The jacket is by Urban Code. The scarf is Elgin. It's cashmere and made in Scotland. The handbag is by <a href="http://www.bagsforbliss.org/" target="_hplink">Bags for Bliss</a>.<br />
<br />
<strong>Heritage pieces:</strong><br />
My ring and my brooch have been passed down to me across three generations.<br />
<br />
Read Christine's report from <a href="https://editorial.huffingtonpost.com/tmp/1285211_24.html?preview=yes" target="_hplink">Day 1 of London Fashion Week here</a>]]></content>
</entry>

<entry>
    <title>Prophetik: Think Globally, Act Locally</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.huffingtonpost.co.uk/christine-de-leon/think-globally-act-locally_b_1264175.html"/>
    <id>tag:www.huffingtonpost.com,2012:/theblog//3.1264175</id>
    <published>2012-02-09T19:00:00-05:00</published>
    <updated>2012-04-10T05:12:01-04:00</updated>
    <summary><![CDATA[What Jeff Garner is doing with Prophetik is unique. Apart from being an artist with a clear vision, he is an entrepreneur who owns his means of production, he is a businessman who understands the values of environmental justice drive that his brand forward and these factors combined create Prophetik's unique position in the market. ]]></summary>
    <author>
        <name>Christine de Leon</name>
        <uri>http://www.huffingtonpost.com/christine-de-leon/</uri>
    </author>
    <content type="html" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/christine-de-leon/"><![CDATA[<center><img alt="2012-02-09-prophetik_aw11_small.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-02-09-prophetik_aw11_small.jpg" width="450" height="675" /></center><br />
(Photo credit: Christopher Dadey)<br />
<br />
I'm sitting in a hotel lobby near Hyde Park. Jeff Garner, the creative mind behind luxury designer label <a href="http://www.prophetik.com" target="_hplink">Prophetik</a>, arrives in his trademark jodhpurs, riding boots and granddad shirt. Think of the Southern gent, Ashley Wilkes from the film <em><a href="http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0031381/" target="_hplink"><em>Gone With The Wind</em> </a></em>and cross that with the really cool guy in your high school drama class and you're on the right track.<br />
<br />
Garner is back in London finalising details for London Fashion Week. He's squeezed me in between a dress handover to one of his London clients and a riding appointment at<a href="https://www.hydeparkstables.com/" target="_hplink"> The Hyde Park Stables</a>. In his arms is a very large garment bag, which holds the elegant, dreamy white ostritch feather and peace silk gown that was the grand finale of the <a href="http://www.verynicethreads.com/?p=612" target="_hplink">Prophetik  A/W 11 Collection</a>. <br />
<br />
The client's name doesn't come up in conversation, her assistant remains discreet. As Garner goes through advice on how to handle the garment, I'm getting a close look at the luxurious fabric, the detail on the dress and the exquisite craftsmanship that's gone into the gown. "Each feather has been hand-sewn on to the dress," he says before it is whisked away in a black cab. I'm guessing the client might be sustainable fashion icon Livia Firth, who chose to wear a Prophetik silk gown on the night her husband Colin Firth won a Golden Globe for his role in <em>The King's Speech</em>.<br />
<br />
<center><img alt="2012-02-09-LFirth_blog2_V_17jan11_639.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-02-09-LFirth_blog2_V_17jan11_639.jpg" width="426" height="639" /></center><br />
(Photo credit: Fairlight)<br />
<br />
We decide to go to a cafe around the corner from the stables for our interview. "I help exercise the horses whenever I'm here," he explains. "You're an outrider?" I ask, trying not to sound too surprised. He nods his head yes. So, of course I have to ask: how did this cowboy become a fashion designer?<br />
<br />
Garner intimates that it was a career path which was outside his family's expectations for him. He had turned down a scholarship to study nuclear physics at the highly esteemed US military academy West Point. Instead, he chose a more bohemian path and enrolled in the theatre studies programme at Pepperdine University. He paid his own way by doing commercial work in Los Angeles which led him to make contacts in the entertainment industry. Having cut his teeth styling musicians in Tennessee, he applied his skills to a the LA set and through working in both circles, he encountered influential people in the fashion industry. <br />
<br />
It was only a matter of time before Calvin Klein agreed to be his mentor. Eventually, this led to work with diverse talent such as disco icon Donna Summer, pop star Miley Cyrus and stadium rockers Kings of Leon. In 2002, Garner started the sustainable fashion label Prophetik and set up its HQ back in his home state of Tennessee.<br />
<br />
If location is everything, then I am curious as to why Prophetik isn't based in one of the major American cities. Garner had, in fact, a brief stint in the Los Angeles garment district, but he knew right away that it was not where his vision for Prophetik could take root. "These places are dark, so badly lit and they're really dirty," he says solemnly "And the people who sewed the clothes didn't have any love for the work they did. To them, it was just a paycheck".<br />
<br />
Garner works with true artisans. The trained dressmakers who work for him have a wholly different approach to work, "they sew like they are making these dresses for their own daughters," he explains. These "mature ladies" receive a fair wage for their work and keep alive the skills of dressmaking in a part of the world where apparel industry has all but disappeared, and what is left is becoming rapidly de-skilled by machinists who churn out football jerseys.<br />
<br />
Another central tenet to Prophetik's <em>raison d'etre</em>, is Garner's commitment to sourcing sustainable fabrics and using a natural dye process which have a low impact on the environment. When we was just starting the business, he knew that he couldn't be the only one interested in organic dyes. "So I did the rounds at country fairs," he says. Sure enough, he met two women who had a stall selling organic tie die t-shirts. They joined forces and together they grew the plants and worked out the low impact dying systems through trial and error. I'm certain this is where his science background comes in. "Yes," he smiles, "it is a bit like engineering." And farming, I might add. Jeff and his team grow all the plants for the dyes ahead of the season in the gardens of Prophetik HQ.  <br />
<br />
What Jeff Garner is doing with Prophetik is unique. Apart from being an artist with a clear vision, he is an entrepreneur who owns his means of production, he is a businessman who understands that the deeply imbedded values of environmental justice drive his brand forward and all these factors combined create Prophetik's unique position in the market. I should also mention at this point, that Garner has spent the last year filming a documentary about Prophetik. It tracks the constant challenge of the future of sustainable fashion and Garner's dream to see it through.<br />
<br />
"I created Prophetik because I wanted it to be a platform to prove that sustainability in the fashion industry could be done."<br />
<br />
<em>Prophetik's AW12/13 Collection makes its European debut during London Fashion Week at Vauxhaull Fashion Scout on Sunday 19 February.</em>]]></content>
    <link href="http://i.huffpost.com/gen/469236/thumbs/s-FASHION-WEEK-mini.jpg" type="image/jpeg" rel="enclosure"/>
</entry>

<entry>
    <title>Recycled and Cooked: Sustainable Jewellery</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.huffingtonpost.co.uk/christine-de-leon/recycled-and-cooked-susta_b_1107981.html"/>
    <id>tag:www.huffingtonpost.com,2011:/theblog//3.1107981</id>
    <published>2011-11-23T18:00:00-05:00</published>
    <updated>2012-01-23T05:12:01-05:00</updated>
    <summary><![CDATA[I was at the Wellcome Trust recently to see an exhibition about charms and superstition called Charmed Life: The Solace of Objects, which is - you guessed it - about charms, amulets and superstition.]]></summary>
    <author>
        <name>Christine de Leon</name>
        <uri>http://www.huffingtonpost.com/christine-de-leon/</uri>
    </author>
    <content type="html" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/christine-de-leon/"><![CDATA[I was at the <a href="http://www.wellcome.ac.uk/" target="_hplink">Wellcome Trust</a> recently to see an exhibition about charms and superstition called <a href="http://www.wellcomecollection.org/whats-on/exhibitions/miracles-and-charms.aspx" target="_hplink">Charmed Life: The Solace of Objects</a>, which is - you guessed it - about charms, amulets and superstition. <br />
<br />
It's a tightly curated show and you get to see past and present day objects that ordinary Londoners keep for a bit of good luck, ward off illness and to attract love into their lives.  <br />
<br />
I went over to the gift shop and came across the designer <a href="http://www.petcelljewellery.co.uk/index.html" target="_hplink">Tonya O'Hara</a> of PET:cell Jewellery who makes statement pieces from recycled plastic bottles. <br />
<br />
If you look very closely at the pieces, each disc in the link of a necklace or bracelet resembles an organism's cellular make-up.  <br />
<br />
O'Hara's new collection - the 'Nebula Series' - is inspired by outerspace and shares the same warm, toffee brown palette as the current collection.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2011-11-22-Nebula04.JPG"><img alt="2011-11-22-Nebula04.JPG" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2011-11-22-Nebula04-thumb.JPG" width="220" height="261" /></a><br />
<br />
This brings me to the other side of the spectrum of sustainable jewellery and that is <a href="http://lili-design.com/" target="_hplink">BioBijoux by Lili Giacobino</a>.<br />
<br />
Where O'Hara has found beautiful ways of recycling plastic for one-off pieces, Giacobino has created an alternative to plastic that you can cook yourself. Not only could this be fun for the DIY enthusiast, at the end of the cooking session you get organic forms in striking colours from vegetable dyes - indigos, reds and in fact, most of the colour spectrum.<br />
<br />
<img alt="2011-11-22-biobijouxverte.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2011-11-22-biobijouxverte.jpg" width="220" height="221" /><br />
<br />
<blockquote>"I wanted to find a material which could replace plastic. I spent months in my kitchen experimenting and created a new kind of bioplastic, completely adapted to skin that is totally biodegradable," says Giacobino.</blockquote> <br />
<br />
BioBijoux has more of a homemade, crafty feel to it and this is something I would choose as a rainy Sunday afternoon kitchen adventure with my nine-year-old. Whereas PET:cell pieces offer a slick, streamlined finished product that could be flashed around at next month's party season. In either case, with the the increase in <a href="http://www.insightcrime.org/criminal-groups/colombia/urabenos/item/1787-new-york-times-features-images-from-colombias-illegal-gold-mines" target="_hplink">illegal gold mining in Colombia</a> and the <a href="http://www.un.org/peace/africa/Diamond.html" target="_hplink">conflict diamond</a> trade in Angola and Sierra Leone, these pieces offer an alternative, sustainable and ethical bling solution.]]></content>
    <link href="http://i.huffpost.com/gen/398393/thumbs/s-STATEMENT-NECKLACE-mini.jpg" type="image/jpeg" rel="enclosure"/>
</entry>

<entry>
    <title>Sustainable and Ethical: Trainers that Don't Cost the Earth</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.huffingtonpost.co.uk/christine-de-leon/ethical-fashion-trainers_b_1073797.html"/>
    <id>tag:www.huffingtonpost.com,2011:/theblog//3.1073797</id>
    <published>2011-11-04T19:00:00-04:00</published>
    <updated>2012-01-04T05:12:01-05:00</updated>
    <summary><![CDATA[When I think of monolithic sportswear brands and their highly questionable supply chains, I just have to resign myself that the Gazelle and the Chuck T are both one of those "It was great while it lasted, and even though you're still hot, it just isn't working for me anymore," relationships. ]]></summary>
    <author>
        <name>Christine de Leon</name>
        <uri>http://www.huffingtonpost.com/christine-de-leon/</uri>
    </author>
    <content type="html" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/christine-de-leon/"><![CDATA[I've always been a fan of Adidas Originals, in particular the Gazelle because of its early hip-hop aesthetic. The Chuck Taylor All-Star was definitely a wardrobe staple for many years. <br />
<br />
But when I think of the monolithic sportswear brands and their highly questionable supply chains, I just have to resign myself to the fact that the Gazelle and the Chuck T. are both one of those "It was great while it lasted, and even though you're still hot, it just isn't working for me anymore," relationships. Thankfully, there are some great trainers to move toward. At the heart of these brands are ethical and sustainable principles and their green cred makes them very sexy indeed. <br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.thefaircorp.com/range/footwear" target="_hplink">Ethletic</a> have been ripping off the iconic Chuck Taylor All-Star silhouette for a number of years now and they do it so well. These ethical fashion trainers are made from certified organic and Fairtrade cotton and the fairly traded rubber soles are certified by The Forest Stewardship Council (FSC).<br />
<img alt="2011-11-03-ethletic.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2011-11-03-ethletic.jpg" width="379" height="267" /><br />
<br />
The Brazilian shoe <a href="http://www.jingashop.com/madeinbrazil.asp" target="_hplink">Jinga</a> is a nice substitute for Onitsuka - the retro-chic Japanese trainer. I first came across Jinga about five years ago at The Laden Showroom, an indie designer shop in Brick Lane. Jinga has an up-front, ethical Code of Practice and they provide full-time employment for their Brazilian workers (as opposed to contract work), which means  that they are covered by Brazilian employment law, ensuring them basic entitlement to the minimum wage,  paid maternity leave and holidays. The company also invests in social projects for the urban poor of Rio de Janiero, one of which is an after-school programme for young people at risk.<br />
<img alt="2011-11-03-jinga_js1103_single_w.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2011-11-03-jinga_js1103_single_w.jpg" width="400" height="267" /><br />
<a href="http://www.foryourearth.com" target="_hplink">For Your Earth</a> are a French trainer with a quirky street style, but can only be sourced in the UK online at the moment. The shoes are made from a combination of recycled plastic bottles and organic cotton. The Hi-tops are For Your Earth's design strength, offering a nice alternative to the Nike Hi-Top. They get big points for recycling rubber soles. <br />
<img alt="2011-11-03-arenalvelcro.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2011-11-03-arenalvelcro.jpg" width="300" height="300" /><br />
Last, but not least on my 'I Heart Trainers' list, is <a href="http://www.veja.fr/#/collections/VEJA_+-30/FRENCHTROTTERS-59" target="_hplink">Veja</a>. Where Ethletic, Jinga and For Your Earth hark to the past for design inspiration, Veja's recent collaboration with the uber-chic Parisian boutique French Trotters has a unique look that is minimalist, understated and elegant. Veja work in partnership with traditional rubber tappers, ensuring these indigenous skills are kept alive; and they support a co-operative of organic cotton growers who have learned to diversify their crops in the interest of self-sufficiency. <br />
<br />
Veja pay their factory workers above the Brazilian minimum wage and 80% of them are union members. This interlinked, collaborative way of working from design, to sourcing, to production defines a new working model for the 21st century, where the 'luxury' in luxury brand isn't at the expense of the earth's resources.<br />
<img alt="2011-11-03-Veja_FrenchTrottersAuburn2.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2011-11-03-Veja_FrenchTrottersAuburn2.jpg" width="400" height="267"]]></content>
    <link href="http://i.huffpost.com/gen/86134/thumbs/s-SNEAKERS-mini.jpg" type="image/jpeg" rel="enclosure"/>
</entry>

<entry>
    <title>Ethical Fashion - The Stylin' Three Rs</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.huffingtonpost.co.uk/christine-de-leon/ethical-fashiont-three-rs-of-styling_b_1029020.html"/>
    <id>tag:www.huffingtonpost.com,2011:/theblog//3.1029020</id>
    <published>2011-10-24T19:00:00-04:00</published>
    <updated>2011-12-24T05:12:01-05:00</updated>
    <summary><![CDATA[Every eco-fashionista knows that one doesn't have to sacrifice style for green cred. Gone are the days of ill-fitting garments made of itchy hemp and amorphous silhouettes. 
]]></summary>
    <author>
        <name>Christine de Leon</name>
        <uri>http://www.huffingtonpost.com/christine-de-leon/</uri>
    </author>
    <content type="html" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/christine-de-leon/"><![CDATA[Every eco-fashionista knows that one doesn't have to sacrifice style for green cred. Gone are the days of ill-fitting garments made of itchy hemp and amorphous silhouettes. <br />
<br />
The three tenets of the responsible, intelligent consumer - reduce, reuse and recycle - doesn't necessarily mean an entire afternoon dedicated to trawling several charity shops in the hopes for that one great find.  <br />
<br />
Our hunger for cheap clothes in large quantities fuel the market power of clothing chains like Primark or Forever21 who depend on our throw-away culture to secure their large market share of the high street apparel industry. But there is a way to resist this approach to dressing oneself by using the three Rs. <br />
<br />
<strong>Reduce:</strong><br />
<br />
Let's be plain. You don't need 20 pairs of jeans or trousers, half of which don't fit properly, in your wardrobe. You also don't need 20 black t-shirts with slightly different necklines. You may think you got them for a bargain at &pound;5 each, but you know as well as I do that they'll fall apart and lose their colour after half a dozen spin cycles. Think about the pieces in your wardrobe that are a good fit and that you feel confident in. Then, consider buying three or four high quality pieces and spend upwards of &pound;25 on each garment safe in the knowledge that they will last you at least a couple of years, if not more. Always look for Fairtrade cotton symbols on the garment and organic is now easier to find, so aim for that benchmark as well. <br />
<br />
<strong>Re-use:</strong><br />
<br />
Your mate has just texted you to say that she/he's had a massive wardrobe clear out and there's four bags of clothes ready for the charity shop - can you believe it? Get yourself down there immediately and vet the bags for key wardrobe pieces that would work for you. The other thing you should consider is a clothes swap event. <a href="http://swishing.com/" target="_hplink">Swishing</a> is a really good website to help you find your nearest one. <br />
<br />
<strong>Recycle:</strong><br />
<br />
This is by far my favourite of the Rs in terms of designer fun. 'Upcycled' designer clothes are one way to combat the increasing problem of fast fashion ending up in landfills after less than one season. The designers will find surplus stock, end of roll or vintage textiles and recycle them into a fashion forward collection. There are old veterans of this approach to fashion design based here in London: From Somewhere, Junky Styling, Goodone and Dr. Noki reign supreme at the moment. But just last week at the Source Expo, an international tradeshow for sustainable fashion, I discovered three labels on the scene that are new and noteworthy: <br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.fashionbymia.com/" target="_hplink">MIA</a> fuses recycled fabrics (t-shirts, men's ties) and traditional Malawian textiles, fusing Western styling with the vibrancy and richness of the Malawian prints.  <br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.nurmiclothing.com/" target="_hplink">Nurmi Clothing</a> uses surplus stock from what's left of the Finnish textile industry. The upcoming Spring/Summer 2012 Collection uses bold, graphic prints from end of roll early 1990s material. Nurmi combines this reclaimed fabric with new material sourced ethically and made with sustainable materials like hemp and organic cotton. <br />
<br />
<a href="http://riciclabo.jimdo.com/photo-book/" target="_hplink">Riciclab&ograve; </a>is an Italian-based label. The pieces are created from second-hand clothes and textile production rejects. The designs incorporate refined tailoring and sustainable fabrics.]]></content>
    <link href="http://i.huffpost.com/gen/351628/thumbs/s-GREEN-FASHION-WEEK-mini.jpg" type="image/jpeg" rel="enclosure"/>
</entry>

<entry>
    <title>London Fashion Week: Corrie Nielsen S/S 12 and the Carbon Off-Set Dilemma</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.huffingtonpost.co.uk/christine-de-leon/lfw-corrie-nielsen-ss-2012_b_969044.html"/>
    <id>tag:www.huffingtonpost.com,2011:/theblog//3.969044</id>
    <published>2011-09-19T19:00:00-04:00</published>
    <updated>2011-11-19T05:12:01-05:00</updated>
    <summary><![CDATA[Corrie Nielsen's Spring/Summer 2012 Collection entitled Arbiter Elegantiarum is heavily inspired by Wildean Victoriana where she cleverly melds English tailoring with modernist Japanese aesthetics...But how carbon neutral can she remain as a business?]]></summary>
    <author>
        <name>Christine de Leon</name>
        <uri>http://www.huffingtonpost.com/christine-de-leon/</uri>
    </author>
    <content type="html" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/christine-de-leon/"><![CDATA[<img alt="2011-09-19-corrie_nielsen_ss12_015_650px.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2011-09-19-corrie_nielsen_ss12_015_650px.jpg" width="433" height="650" /><br />
<em>Photographer: Christopher Dadey</em><br />
<br />
Corrie Nielsen's Spring/Summer 2012 Collection entitled <em>Arbiter Elegantiarum</em> is heavily inspired by Wildean Victoriana where she cleverly melds English tailoring with modernist Japanese aesthetics. Luxury fabrics such as silk and taffetta find a home in a neutral palette. But how carbon neutral can she remain as a business?<br />
<br />
First, the yummy stuff: the show opened with a wearable black, close fitted suit jacket included an edgy leather cuff and black geometric detail on the collar and softened by tidy draping on the full skirt.<br />
<br />
The architectural crinolines added a sculptural twist to the grey waistcoat and reappeared in the lichen green suit jacket, which carried through in spirals to the skirt. High Victorian lace collars, deconstructed Kimonos and surprise accordian pleats make this collection whimsical on one level, but on another level, the sculptural elements of precise tailoring reign in Nielsen's credentials as a serious couturier.<br />
<br />
Nielsen's press samples for this collection were all made in her London studio. Should the orders start rolling in, she is determined to place production in either the UK or Italy, bucking the trend of shifting garment production overseas to cut costs as so many in the luxury clothing sector have done. But would keeping production close to her London studio really be the answer to reducing a carbon footprint?<br />
<br />
Veronica Crespi, Founder and Director of <a href="http://www.rewardrobe.eu/" target="_hplink">Rewardrobe</a>, a sustainable style and fashion consultancy, agrees that a collection such as Nielsen's would demand a high level of craftsmanship and it would not be a smart move for the brand to compromise on quality in order to outsource cheaper production means.<br />
<br />
<blockquote>"It might sound as though producing in Italy would spoil the orthodox choice of implementing 100% local production, however let's not forget that a lot of quality fabrics are produced there, so the "km0" approach [carbon offsetting] could actually be put in place by reducing the distance between weavers and tailors, and only shipping the final garment.<br />
<br />
Italy is home to Como, the ancient and renowned silk production district, which is working towards adding organic and cruelty-free silk to their offer. All these benefits would certainly offset other limitations - especially considering it would still be about only European distances, without considering longer-haul solutions."</blockquote><br />
<br />
Lucy Tammam, Owner and Director of fashion house <a href="http://www.tammam.co.uk/" target="_hplink">Tammam</a>, is at the forefront of the ethical luxury industry. She is unconvinced that UK production would make a difference to carbon off-setting because spinning mills and weavers are so thin on the ground here. As well, certified organic and fair trade fabrics come from so far away. <br />
<blockquote><br />
"When I started researching for Tammam, I realised that there are very few spinning mills or weavers left in the UK, and those that are will concentrate on British wool, and rightly so. The majority of silks will come from Asia, and I gave in to the realisation that I would have to ship my garments. After all, shipping a cut, ready garment, is lighter and less bulky than shipping a roll of fabric, to be cut and have wastage. With more readily available organic, wild and fair trade yarns from countries such as India, China and South America, who generally use better, more ecological and less carbon generating production methods than non-certified yarns. Also if producers are able to use solar power to generate energy to run machinery and lights, or traditional hand looms and pedal machines, we can find another carbon saving reason to produce away from home."</blockquote><br />
<br />
Nielsen is at a terrific point in her career, having won last year's Fashion Fringe award, and debuting her first catwalk show only last season at Somerset House. Her design credentials are certainly laudable, however, in terms of a business mind, I wonder if she has what it takes to be part of a new generation of innovative entrepreneurs who are finding ways to keep healthy profit margins yet place social responsibility, or even social change, at the heart of what they do.]]></content>
</entry>

<entry>
    <title>The Malcolm X T-shirt Revisited</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.huffingtonpost.co.uk/christine-de-leon/ethical-fashion-malcom-x-t-shirt-revisited_b_960850.html"/>
    <id>tag:www.huffingtonpost.com,2011:/theblog//3.960850</id>
    <published>2011-09-15T19:00:00-04:00</published>
    <updated>2011-11-15T05:12:01-05:00</updated>
    <summary><![CDATA[The early 1990s were a golden era in postmodern black consciousness and 'X' was a symbol of empowerment emblazoned across the chests of so many young black men. However, within three or four years of such a potent resurgence of black radical thought, the 'X' tees seemed to disappear into the bottom drawer. So to see this symbol re-emerge on a suit jacket in 2011 was positively sublime.]]></summary>
    <author>
        <name>Christine de Leon</name>
        <uri>http://www.huffingtonpost.com/christine-de-leon/</uri>
    </author>
    <content type="html" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/christine-de-leon/"><![CDATA[<img alt="2011-09-13-malcolm_x500px.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2011-09-13-malcolm_x500px.jpg" width="500" height="666" /><br />
<br />
The 'X' on the back of this jacket sent chills up my spine and from the far end of the carriage, I weaved through the morning commuters to get to this man so I could snap his photo. Such determination to take a picture of someone's back might seem a bit odd, but I was seeing a new take on a very popular t-shirt design of my youth.<br />
<br />
The 'X' inspired an instantaneous flashback to the early 1990s, when rap group Public Enemy were breaking new ground for American music and filmmaker Spike Lee released <em>Malcolm X</em>, an epic biographical account of the controversial human rights activist Malcolm X.<br />
<br />
It was a golden era in postmodern black consciousness and 'X' was a symbol of empowerment emblazoned across the chests of so many young black men. However, within three or four years of such a potent resurgence of black radical thought, the 'X' tees seemed to disappear into the bottom drawer. So to see this symbol re-emerge on a suit jacket in 2011 was positively sublime.<br />
<br />
The jacket is by the Italian menswear label Adamus, who don't seem to have any ethical or sustainable credentials, but I still give them a thumb's up for their urban design savviness. To create your own 'X' jacket, Sarah Klymkiw an upcycling guru who runs workshops across London gave us the low-down on how to customise the garment using found materials:<br />
<br />
<blockquote>"I'd suggest recreating this effect with a webbed belt, or even a pair of braces picked up from a local charity shop to achieve a neat sharp edge. Alternatively, cut two strips from an old pair of trousers or jeans and zig zag stitch the edges when attaching to the jacket to avoid fraying. The stud detail would require a visit to your local haberdashery but require no technical skills and, I'm sure to the relief of some, no sewing!" </blockquote><br />
<br />
The satchel is Herm&eacute;s and is what I would call a future heirloom or investment piece. The bag is of excellent quality and has a classic look, the kind of accessory that you take care of, love and pass on to someone who will love it as much as you.<br />
<br />
The man sporting the 'X' jacket and future vintage satchel is Colin and he works for <a href="http://www.stgilestrust.org.uk" target="_hplink">St. Giles Trust</a>, a London charity that offers help and support to ex-offenders by giving them opportunities to develop their skills and experience so that they can readjust to mainstream society and lessen the risk of re-offending.<br />
<br />
Completely by coincidence, a few hours after taking Colin's photograph, I was introduced to the new <a href="http://www.heavyeco.com" target="_hplink">Heavy Eco</a> t-shirt line at <a href="http://www.potassiumstore.co.uk" target="_hplink">Potassium</a>, the label's only London stockist.<br />
<br />
The new designs are  a series of Russian prison tattoos that decode and symbolise one's reason for incarceration. For instance, in the picture below: women and gambling. In another, a Russian cathedral with a few turrets, each one representing the number of times one has been to prison.<br />
<br />
<img alt="2011-09-13-heavyeco500pxjpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2011-09-13-heavyeco500pxjpg" width="500" height="333" /><br />
(Photo courtesy of Heavy Eco)<br />
<br />
At Heavy Eco, the inmates are paid to produce the t-shirts (which are 100% organic cotton), pick out the water-based silkscreen artwork and 50% of the profits go toward supporting young homeless people who are at risk of offending.]]></content>
</entry>

<entry>
    <title>Ethical Fashion: Christopher Raeburn for Victorinox</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.huffingtonpost.co.uk/christine-de-leon/ethical-fashion-christophe-raeburn_b_959980.html"/>
    <id>tag:www.huffingtonpost.com,2011:/theblog//3.959980</id>
    <published>2011-09-13T19:00:00-04:00</published>
    <updated>2011-11-13T05:12:02-05:00</updated>
    <summary><![CDATA[So, exactly how did this young designer only five years out of art school, get commissioned by Swiss Army Knife originators Victorinox to make a one-off collection? ]]></summary>
    <author>
        <name>Christine de Leon</name>
        <uri>http://www.huffingtonpost.com/christine-de-leon/</uri>
    </author>
    <content type="html" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/christine-de-leon/"><![CDATA[Horrible, foul London rain. Today would be the perfect day to wear a waterproof number from Christopher Raeburn's capsule collection for Victorinox entitled <a href="http://www.remadeinswitzerland.com/" target="_hplink">REMADE IN SWITZERLAND</a>. I personally like the orange "kagoul" (that's rain jacket to our North American friends and family).  <br />
<br />
So, exactly how did this young designer only five years out of art school, get commissioned by Swiss Army Knife originators Victorinox to make a one-off collection? Well, Victorinox were so enamoured by Raeburn's approach to creating his own fashion-led, urban designs out of decommissioned military garments and textiles that they invited him to Switzerland to do his thing. Raeburn used local military surplus stores for ideas. <br />
<br />
By taking apart the existing garments he found at the surplus stores, he re-imagining unexpected uses for the old garmets and challenged the concept of what is considered 'new'. A rare find was a box of horseshoe nails that became the symbol of the project for R&aelig;burn. He challenged Victorinox to recast that nail into scales for an Original Swiss Army Knife to complement the project. The nail also inspired a print used for linings and other graphic treatments.<br />
<br />
R&aelig;burn and the Victorinox team set up an atelier for the production of the capsule collection at house where the founder of Victorinox, Karl Elsener lived. They sourced used sewing machines to furnish the atelier and invited local tailors and apprentices to help realise the final REMADE IN SWITZERLAND products.<br />
<br />
I can totally see these on the likes of Wretch 32 (who? you ask -do yourself a favour and google the man) and most certainly Bjork (who? you ask - do yourself a favour and raid your mother's CD collection). Why? Because the pieces are slick, expertly tailored and really cool. They are a refreshing departure from generic military jacket look we saw so much of in 2010. Plus there are pieces that women look hot in too. I'm all about the equality of the sexes when it comes to these things.<br />
<br />
These are limited edition pieces only one hundred of each style (a total of eight) has been made and according to Raeburn, they are built to last "The resulting garments constructed from re-appropriated Swiss military fabrics are a celebration of craft and a reaction to fast fashion" says Raeburn.<br />
<br />
Menswear is sorely underrepresented on the ethical/sustainable fashion circuit so this unique selling point does separate Raeburn from many of his contemporaries. As military expenditure scales back in the coming week/months/years, there will be more surplus stock and finding a use for them to keep them out of the landfills would by a very good thing indeed.<br />
<br />
However, what would be truly amazing is the introduction to repurposed material to the mass market. By this I mean upcycled coats and jackets made by local garment workers on sale at Primark or Forever 21 for that matter.<br />
<br />
For just a moment, a brief fleeting moment, I can imagine a world where my clothes aren't made by seven-year-old Vietnamese children and that perfectly good textile isn't taking up crucial space in a landfill.]]></content>
</entry>
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