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  <title>James Field</title>
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  <updated>2013-05-18T15:05:28-04:00</updated>
  <author>
    <name>James Field</name>
  </author>
  <id xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom">http://www.huffingtonpost.co.uk/author/index.php?author=james-field</id>
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<entry>
    <title>Wearing a Poppy</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.huffingtonpost.co.uk/james-field/wearing-a-poppy_b_2089997.html"/>
    <id>tag:www.huffingtonpost.com,2012:/theblog//3.2089997</id>
    <published>2012-11-07T19:00:00-05:00</published>
    <updated>2013-01-07T05:12:01-05:00</updated>
    <summary><![CDATA[The use of the poppy was inspired by the World War I poem 'In Flanders Fields'. It refers to the many poppies that were the first flowers to grow in the churned-up earth of soldiers' graves in Flanders, a region of Europe that overlies parts of Belgium, France, and the Netherlands.]]></summary>
    <author>
        <name>James Field</name>
        <uri>http://www.huffingtonpost.com/james-field/</uri>
    </author>
    <content type="html" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/james-field/"><![CDATA[<center><img alt="2012-11-07-poppypage.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-11-07-poppypage.jpg" width="430" height="250" /></center><br />
<br />
<br />
<strong>The history bit:</strong><br />
<br />
The use of the poppy was inspired by the World War I poem 'In Flanders Fields'. It refers to the many poppies that were the first flowers to grow in the churned-up earth of soldiers' graves in Flanders, a region of Europe that overlies parts of Belgium, France, and the Netherlands. Canadian physician and Lt Col. John McCrae is understood to have written it on 3 May 1915 after witnessing the death of his friend (a fellow soldier) the day before.<br />
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<img alt="2012-11-07-342pxin_flanders_fields_and_other_poems_page_3.png" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-11-07-342pxin_flanders_fields_and_other_poems_page_3.png" width="342" height="599" /></center><br />
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<br />
Inspired by the poem, American teacher Moina Bell Michael went on to sell silk poppies to friends to raise money for the ex-service community. By 1920 the poppy was proclaimed the national emblem of remembrance in the US, and in the UK. Ever since it has been adopted by an ever increasing community, and last year it is said Britons bought over 26m. A Royal British Legion team of about 50 people--most of them disabled former British military personnel--work all year round to make millions of poppies at a factory in Richmond, England.<br />
<br />
<strong>Quick fact:</strong><br />
<br />
In England, Wales, and Northern Ireland, the poppies have two red petals, a green paper leaf and are mounted on a green plastic stem. In Scotland the poppies are curled and have four petals with no leaf.<br />
<br />
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<img alt="2012-11-07-646pxroyal_british_legions_paper_poppy__white_background.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-11-07-646pxroyal_british_legions_paper_poppy__white_background.jpg" width="590" height="547" /><br />
<br />
<br />
<strong>Where to wear them:</strong><br />
<br />
The poppy is a 'must' at this time of year and people are all too ready to pass comment on how to wear them.  Some people say left, as it's worn over the heart. Others say only the Queen and Royal Family are allowed to wear a poppy on the right, which surely can't be true. Then there is the school of thought that says men should wear theirs on the left and women on the right, as is the traditional custom with a badge or brooch. There are even opinions on the correct position of the green leaf. That it should be pointing at 11 o'clock so as to recognise the importance of the eleventh hour.  The Royal British Legion spokesman says there is no right or wrong side "other than to wear it with pride". That's good enough for me.<br />
<br />
J<strong>ames writes the style blog: <a href="http://collartocuff.wordpress.com/" target="_hplink">Collar to Cuff</a></strong><br />
<br />
<br />
<strong>Follow James Field on Facebook: <a href="http://www.facebook.com/pages/James-Field/249374428406761" target="_hplink">James Field</a></strong>]]></content>
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</entry>

<entry>
    <title>Ties: The Dos and Do Knots</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.huffingtonpost.co.uk/james-field/tie-knots-how-to_b_1949206.html"/>
    <id>tag:www.huffingtonpost.com,2012:/theblog//3.1949206</id>
    <published>2012-10-11T19:00:00-04:00</published>
    <updated>2012-12-11T05:12:01-05:00</updated>
    <summary><![CDATA[Tie width has seen great change over the years. The big kipper ties thankfully were left in the 70's and ever since ties have become thinner and thinner. Even in the last couple of years the standard width tie has seen a slight tweak by retailers.]]></summary>
    <author>
        <name>James Field</name>
        <uri>http://www.huffingtonpost.com/james-field/</uri>
    </author>
    <content type="html" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/james-field/"><![CDATA[<center><img alt="2012-10-08-handmademenstieinfashionabledesignmadeof100silkorpolyester531431.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-10-08-handmademenstieinfashionabledesignmadeof100silkorpolyester531431.jpg" width="590" height="485" /></center><br />
<br />
Walking to work in London, it amazes me how little people care about what they look like as they turn up to the office each day. I want to talk ties with you... I'm of the opinion that if you've decided to wear one, then wear it! Don't just let it hang like a dead fish, and DON'T travel to work with it undone, all because you're 'flat out and didn't have the time'. Make time and leave home dressed. Anything less looks awful, and quite frankly you're better off without one.<br />
<br />
The necktie traces back to the time of Thirty Years' War (1618-1648) when Croatian mercenaries from the Military Frontier in French service, wearing their traditional small, knotted neckerchiefs, awakened the interest of the Parisians. The new article of clothing started a fashion craze in Europe where both men and women wore pieces of fabric around their necks. The tie was born.<br />
<br />
In the last decade or so, business casual became a voice in our daily lives because this gave the impression of being more approachable. The first thing to go was the tie. "Yeah you look great, but lose the tie", came the calls.  But with a recession, and people wanting to give off a sense of 'Let's get down to business', the tie has seen a comeback.<br />
<br />
After a quick glance at someone's face, the tie is the next thing you'll look at. Try it. I bet you do. It will then draw your focus up to the face again. From the point where your jacket does up, the "V" shape made with a closed jacket and all within that space is drawing the attention up towards your face. In many ways it's the prologue to the main show!<br />
<br />
There are three main aspects to think about when wearing a tie.<br />
<br />
Tie design and colour<br />
<br />
Tie proportion<br />
<br />
Tie knots<br />
<br />
<br />
<strong>Tie design and colour</strong><br />
<br />
Think "opposites" in terms of design, and think "complimentary" in terms of colour. What I mean by that is you need to choose a tie that is opposed to the design of the shirt. So here's a safe word of advice: If you have a striped shirt then choose either a solid colour or a tie with a spot or other such design. If you are a little more confident in throwing the right things together, then you can try a stripe on stripe, as long as the stripes are of different sizes. So, for example, a thinly striped shirt can be combined with a wide striped tie. If you're not sure, then leave alone and play safe. The last thing you want to look like is a Zebra gone wrong. And as we all know Zebras don't belong in the boardroom!<br />
<br />
Choosing colour is a little easier. As a rule of thumb, all you need to do is draw out a colour from the shirt. So for example, take a light blue shirt with a pink stripe. I would find a blue tie with a dash of pink in it. Remember this:  Combine by complementing the colours.<br />
<br />
<strong>Tie proportion</strong><br />
<br />
Tie width has seen great change over the years. The big kipper ties thankfully were left in the 70's and ever since ties have become thinner and thinner. Even in the last couple of years the standard width tie has seen a slight tweak by retailers.<br />
<br />
The skinny tie has made a big impression and a lot of people choose to wear it in the professional environment over the standard width.  To get the look right, the tie should compliment the size of your jacket lapels and in turn should be complimenting the width of your shoulders. So the skinny looks top notch if the wearer is less broad across the shoulders, and combines this attribute with thin jacket lapels. This is the perfect permission to adopt the skinny.<br />
<br />
If you are broader in shoulder and lapel I'd stick to standard tie widths. Leave the skinny to the narrower people of this world!<br />
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</center><br />
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<br />
<br />
<strong><br />
Tie knots</strong><br />
<br />
There are a number of ways of tying a tie, perhaps more than you might be aware of, but there are only a few that we commonly use. The Four-in-Hand (School boy knot), Half Windsor and Full Windsor.<br />
<br />
<strong>The Four-in-Hand</strong><br />
<br />
This knot you probably learnt for your first day at school. Hence why it is referred to as the School Boy. The term "four-in-hand" originally described a carriage with four horses and a driver. The reins for the horses were knotted with a four-in-hand knot. There was also a London gentlman's club so named where members would wear their neckties with the knot. To this day it is the knot that the majority of us choose to wear.<br />
<br />
<strong>Half Windsor and Full Windsor</strong><br />
<br />
The Windsor knots are the thickest knots amongst the choices as they envolve the greastest number of steps. They were named after the Duke of Windsor, however it is wrong to say that he used them. The Duke did require a thick knot but this was  achieved by having ties specially made thicker. In the late 1990s, two researchers (Thomas Fink and Yong Mao) of Cambridge University's Cavendish Laboratory used mathematical modelling to discover that it is possible to tie 85 different knots with a conventional tie... Now, before you say anything, I think there must be a better way to spend one's time too! Learn the basic knots and you'll do just fine. If you're stuck as to how to tie knots, there are so many online video guides that will take you through the steps. Admittedly some are better than others.<br />
<br />
Just brief note on bow ties... I often get asked about these and whether its ok to wear them. Like anything and everything in fashion, these things come and go. In the last year or so they've popped up in an attempt to be "cool". One of the ambassadors of the look being TV presenter George Lamb.<br />
<br />
But if you want my advice... just stay clear. To my mind they are to be reserved for black tie events and the circus.<br />
<br />
J<strong>ames writes the style blog: <a href="http://collartocuff.wordpress.com/" target="_hplink">Collar to Cuff</a></strong><br />
<br />
<strong>Follow James Field on Facebook: <a href="http://www.facebook.com/pages/James-Field/249374428406761" target="_hplink">James Field</a></strong>]]></content>
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</entry>

<entry>
    <title>Doing The Write Thing</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.huffingtonpost.co.uk/james-field/doing-the-write-thing_b_1934978.html"/>
    <id>tag:www.huffingtonpost.com,2012:/theblog//3.1934978</id>
    <published>2012-10-03T06:55:07-04:00</published>
    <updated>2012-12-03T05:12:02-05:00</updated>
    <summary><![CDATA[Don't get me wrong, I'm a huge fan of technology and all that it delivers. I have a computer, iPad, iPhone and I seem to be ever so slightly obsessed with social media. And like you I would guess, there isn't a day that goes by that I'm not sending emails, typing letters, in fact just tapping away on a keyboard.]]></summary>
    <author>
        <name>James Field</name>
        <uri>http://www.huffingtonpost.com/james-field/</uri>
    </author>
    <content type="html" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/james-field/"><![CDATA[<img alt="2012-10-03-montblancpensretailstores41.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-10-03-montblancpensretailstores41.jpg" width="590" height="393" /><br />
<br />
Pens. We all use them, and even in a world that is becoming evermore reliant on computers, iPads, iPhones, the web and email, to my mind, receiving something that is hand written is still held in a higher regard than from any of the forementioned. And quite rightly so. There is still nothing nicer than an invite or a letter which has an element of 'pen to paper'. It just feels more personal.<br />
<br />
Don't get me wrong, I'm a huge fan of technology and all that it delivers. I have a computer, iPad, iPhone and I seem to be ever so slightly obsessed with social media. And like you I would guess, there isn't a day that goes by that I'm not sending emails, typing letters, in fact just tapping away on a keyboard.<br />
<br />
So when it comes to writing, are we entering a time when pens become evermore unimportant?<br />
<br />
<img alt="2012-10-03-writing_essay.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-10-03-writing_essay.jpg" width="590" height="441" /><br />
<br />
Ancient Indians were the first to use the pen. According to ancient text the earliest of pens made in India used bird feathers, bamboo sticks, etc. The old literature of Puranas, Ramayana and Mahabharta used this kind of pen roughly 500 BC. Ancient Egyptians developed writing on papyrus scrolls when scribes used thin reed brushes or reed pens from the Juncus Maritimus or sea rush. Reed pens continued to be used until the Middle Ages although they were slowly replaced by quills from about the 7th century. The reed pen, generally made from bamboo, is still used in some parts of Pakistan by young students and is used to write on small boards made of timber.<br />
<br />
The Quill pen was used in Judea to write some of the Dead Sea Scrolls which date back to around 100 BC. The scrolls were written in Hebrew dialects with bird feathers or quills. After the fall of the Roman Empire , Europeans had difficulty in obtaining reeds[ and began to use quills. Quill pens were still widely used in the 18th century, and were used to write and sign the Constitution of the United States in 1787.<br />
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<center><img alt="2012-10-03-pen.jpeg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-10-03-pen.jpeg" width="232" height="217" /><br />
</center><br />
<br />
So why should you have a good pen?  Firstly, and most importantly, a good pen is a joy to write with. When you find one that suits your style of writing, writing becomes a pleasure. It's comfortable and dependable in equal measure.<br />
<br />
But as funny as it sounds, having a good pen is a bit of a status symbol. Accessories play an important role in reinforcing 'brand you', and having a good pen in your inside pocket is an extention of your efforts in other directions. Rest assured, people notice. Rather like a good quality business card.<br />
<br />
There are three types of pen we all mainly use:<br />
<br />
<strong>The Ballpoint pen</strong><br />
<br />
This dispenses viscous oil-based ink by rolling a small hard sphere, usually 0.7-1.2 mm and made of brass, steel or tungsten carbide. The ink dries almost immediately on contact with paper. This type of pen is generally inexpensive and reliable. It has replaced the fountain pen as the most popular tool for everyday writing. One common type of ballpoint pen is the erasable pen, invented in the 1980s.<br />
<br />
<strong>The Fountain pen</strong><br />
<br />
This uses water-based liquid ink delivered through a nib. The ink flows from a reservoir through a "feed" to the nib, then through the nib, due to capillary action and gravity. The nib has no moving parts and delivers ink through a thin slit to the writing surface. A pen with a refillable reservoir may have a mechanism, such as a piston, to draw ink from a bottle through the nib, or it may require refilling with an eye dropper. Refillable reservoirs, also known as cartridge converters, are available for some pens designed to use disposable cartridges.<br />
<br />
<strong>The Rollerball</strong><br />
<br />
This dispenses a water-based liquid or gel ink through a ball tip similar to that of a ballpoint pen. The less-viscous ink is more easily absorbed by paper than oil-based ink, and the pen moves more easily across a writing surface. The rollerball pen was initially designed to combine the convenience of a ballpoint pen with the smooth "wet ink" effect of a fountain pen.<br />
<br />
<center><img alt="2012-10-03-montblanc.jpeg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-10-03-montblanc.jpeg" width="225" height="225" /></center><br />
<br />
<br />
Founded by the stationer Claus-Johannes Voss, the banker Alfred Nehemias and the engineer August Eberstein in 1908, the company began as the Simplo Filler Pen company producing up-market pens in the Schanzen district of Hamburg. Their first model was the Rouge Et Noir in 1909 followed in 1910 by the pen that was later to give the company its new name, Montblanc. The first pen (a fountain pen) known as the Meisterst&uuml;ck (English: "Masterpiece," the name used for export) was produced in 1924. Today Montblanc brand is on other goods besides pens, including watches, jewel, fragrance, leather goods and eyewear.<br />
<br />
The company was acquired by Dunhill in 1977, following which lower price pens were dropped and the brand was used on a wide range of luxury goods other than pens.<br />
<br />
Today Montblanc forms part of the Richemont group. Its sister companies include luxury brands Cartier, Van Cleef &amp; Arpels, Chlo&eacute;, and Baume et Mercier. Montblanc is owned, through Richmont, by the South African Rupert Family.<br />
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<br />
Not to say this is a must, but for me, the pen that I'm never without is my Montblanc Meisterst&uuml;ck Le Grand ballpoint. It's a classic that with a thick nib (you can choose of course) just glides across the paper. It's a pleasure to write with.<br />
<br />
It's true, we do put pen to paper less than our predecessors did, but when we do write, it is nice to do it in style.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://collartocuff.wordpress.com/" target="_hplink">Collar to Cuff</a><br />
<br />
Follow James Field on Facebook: <a href="http://www.facebook.com/pages/James-Field/249374428406761?sk=wall" target="_hplink">James Field</a>]]></content>
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</entry>

<entry>
    <title>Looking After Your Shoes</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.huffingtonpost.co.uk/james-field/looking-after-your-shoes_b_1557437.html"/>
    <id>tag:www.huffingtonpost.com,2012:/theblog//3.1557437</id>
    <published>2012-07-06T19:00:00-04:00</published>
    <updated>2012-09-05T05:12:07-04:00</updated>
    <summary><![CDATA[Have you brushed your teeth? Have you polished your shoes? Two questions I'd often hear before heading to school. At the time you don't fully understand the benefit, but thanks to my parents making sure I brushed my teeth before going to school and to bed, I have teeth that have been fairly good to me. If you look after them, they last. The same with shoes.]]></summary>
    <author>
        <name>James Field</name>
        <uri>http://www.huffingtonpost.com/james-field/</uri>
    </author>
    <content type="html" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/james-field/"><![CDATA[<center><img alt="2012-05-30-thepolishedshoes.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-05-30-thepolishedshoes.jpg" width="450" height="286" /><br />
</center><br />
<br />
<strong>Fieldy's top five:</strong><br />
<br />
&bull; Good shoes illustrate style and attention to detail.<br />
<br />
&bull; When buying, think of them as an investment. It's a false economy to buy cheap.<br />
<br />
&bull; Use shoe trees to maintain their shape.<br />
<br />
&bull; With a new pair, let the polish soak into the leather for 24 hours before buffing the leather.<br />
<br />
&bull; Never store your shoes near a source of heat. The leather may dry and split.<br />
<br />
Have you brushed your teeth? Have you polished your shoes? Two questions I'd often hear before heading to school. At the time you don't fully understand the benefit, but thanks to my parents making sure I brushed my teeth before going to school and to bed, I have teeth that have been fairly good to me. If you look after them, they last. The same with shoes.<br />
<br />
Shoes are very important for two reasons: Comfort and style. Sometimes comfort is sacrificed for style, and the worst stories are those of women who go to ridiculous lengths through surgery to reduce the width of their feet to fit into a pair of 'beautiful shoes'. Quite extraordinary. Guys also have their own wrestle with comfort verses style, but thankfully it's usually only temporary and without surgery! I speak of course of the agony we can go through when breaking in a new pair of leather soled shoes. I liken it to taming a wild horse. Once you've broken them in, they seem to understand who's boss.<br />
<br />
It goes without saying that shoes are incredibly important. For some, they come as a necessity and after thought. For those in the know, they show a sense of style and attention to detail.<br />
<br />
<strong>A few steps...</strong><br />
<br />
Our feet have two opportunities to speak volumes about us. There is the shoe, and there is the way we look after the shoe.<br />
<br />
Boots and shoes should always be kept in their trees. They not only help regain the shape of the shoe, but also help to minimise the creases you might have picked up in the leather.<br />
Always use a shoe horn. Again, it will help to keep your shoes in the perfect shape.<br />
<br />
Not only is polishing your shoes important for aesthetic reasons but like skin, leather needs to be fed. Polish stops leather drying out and cracking - something that you can also avoid my storing your shoes away from the radiator at home. (I've been there).<br />
<br />
<strong>How to Polish:</strong><br />
<br />
Before you start, give the shoes a quick brush to remove any dust or dirt.<br />
If not black, choose a polish that is a little lighter than the colour of your shoes to preserve the original shade.<br />
<br />
With a new pair especially, there is no harm in applying polish and leaving it over night to really soak into the leather. In any case, there is no lasting benefit to applying polish only to brush it all off in a matter of two minutes.<br />
<br />
With a cotton cloth, apply polish in a circular rubbing motion to the leather, paying particular attention to the creases. If you have any old cotton shirts that have had their day, these are perfect for this.<br />
<br />
Now buff like you've never buffed before! If you haven't already got one, invest in a good brush. You can pick up a reasonable one from your local cobbler for between &pound;10 and &pound;20. Horse hair comes recommended.<br />
<br />
If you're after a tip top shine on the toe, continue to apply a very thin layer of polish with a lint free cotton cloth, combined with a little spit. Yes, it's spit and polish time! Again in a circular rubbing motion, within 10 minutes you might just start to make out your reflection in the leather.<br />
<br />
<strong><br />
Suede shoes:</strong><br />
<br />
They are very smart, but you have to be smart with the way you look after them.<br />
Stain prevention is always better than cure. This is a painful truth if you are at the stage when you're looking for a cure!<br />
<br />
Prevention comes in the form of protective spray that will help protect against water damage and other such stains. Please make sure you spray and protect the moment your new suede shoes leave their box. Also, think 'damage limitation'. Heading for a boozy night out? Be sensible. It might not be the night to be wearing them.<br />
<br />
If your shoes are wet, firstly dry them with a towel or kitchen roll, then make sure you let them dry naturally. Don't scrub them, dab them; and don't try and speed the process up by putting them near or on a heat source.<br />
<br />
If you have suede shoes you also need a suede eraser and brush. The eraser should be used to gently and repeatedly stroke the stain. The brush, which typically has brass bristles, should then be used to raise the suede fibres again.<br />
<br />
A tip for removing oil stains is to rub talcum powder or maize flower directly on the spot. After several hours, brush off the powder. Repeat if necessary.<br />
<br />
<strong>How to deal with soaking wet shoes:</strong><br />
<br />
Two things: Put balls of newspaper into your shoes and leave them to dry naturally, away from heat.<br />
<br />
<strong>How to deal with smelly shoes:</strong><br />
<br />
Not wishing to state the obvious, but wash your feet.<br />
Purchase an odour crunching inner sole. You'll find them in Boots.<br />
If you have a cat, or even if you don't have a cat, try cat litter. If you add it to the shoes before you go to bed and empty it in the morning, it will do its best to eat up odour and moisture. Good tip.<br />
<br />
If that doesn't work, then try having your insoles replaced.<br />
If that doesn't work, contact your vicar. It's time for an exorcism.<br />
<br />
<strong><a href="http://collartocuff.wordpress.com/" target="_hplink">Collar to Cuff</a><br />
</strong><br />
<br />
<strong>Follow James Field on Facebook: <a href="http://www.facebook.com/pages/James-Field/249374428406761" target="_hplink">James Field</a></strong>]]></content>
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</entry>

<entry>
    <title>What to Wear: To a Black Tie</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.huffingtonpost.co.uk/james-field/what-to-wear-to-a-black-tie_b_1557275.html"/>
    <id>tag:www.huffingtonpost.com,2012:/theblog//3.1557275</id>
    <published>2012-06-29T19:00:00-04:00</published>
    <updated>2012-08-29T05:12:05-04:00</updated>
    <summary><![CDATA[Black tie is dress code for formal evening events, although in recent years elements from its core ingredients have been snatched by the high street for various evening looks. It's not unusual to see a play on a single breasted black barathea with thin satin lapel combined with jeans. Cool? Hmmm?]]></summary>
    <author>
        <name>James Field</name>
        <uri>http://www.huffingtonpost.com/james-field/</uri>
    </author>
    <content type="html" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/james-field/"><![CDATA[<strong>Fieldy's top five:</strong><br />
<br />
- Consider a very midnight blue cloth for the suit. It will appear darker than black.<br />
<br />
- Wear a real bow tie and avoid the ready tied versions.<br />
<br />
- Only wear a cummerbund with a single breasted jacket.<br />
<br />
- Always wear a double cuff shirt.<br />
<br />
- Make sure the cufflinks correspond coherently with your studs if wearing them.<br />
<br />
<strong>CODE BLACK?</strong><br />
<br />
Black tie is dress code for formal evening events, although in recent years elements from its core ingredients have been snatched by the high street for various evening looks. It's not unusual to see a play on a single breasted black barathea with thin satin lapel combined with jeans. Cool? Hmmm?<br />
<br />
Here's a thought. Black Tie should be black, right? A blue dinner jacket just doesn't cut the mustard. Right? So here's the thing:<br />
<br />
TIP: To the naked eye a dinner jacket needs to appear black. But you will often find that a dark midnight blue will have more depth of colour than black. This makes the suit look even darker than black. Strange to think, I know, but black often has essences of grey making it seem less black! This, teamed with black facing looks fantastic. The tricks our eyes play. Extraordinary!<br />
<br />
<center><br />
<img alt="2012-05-30-carygrant21.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-05-30-carygrant21.jpg" width="295" height="320" /></center><br />
<br />
<strong><br />
WHERE DID BLACK TIE COME FROM?</strong><br />
<br />
Savile Row of course. The story goes that at around 1860, the then Prince of Wales had a short smoking jacket created for less formal functions as an alternative to White Tie.<br />
<br />
In the spring of 1886, the Prince invited James Potter, a rich New Yorker, and his wife, Cora Potter, to Sandringham House, his Norfolk hunting estate. When Potter asked the Prince's dinner dress recommendation, he sent Potter back to his tailor on Savile Row. On returning to New York in 1886, Potter's dinner suit proved popular at the Tuxedo Park Club. It was copied by many at the club and it soon became their club informal dining uniform.<br />
<br />
The evening dress for men now popularly known as a tuxedo takes its name from Tuxedo Park, where it was said to have been worn for the first time in the United States, by Griswald Lorillard at the annual Autumn Ball of the Tuxedo Club founded by Pierre Lorillard IV.<br />
<br />
Legend dictates that it became known as the tuxedo when a fellow asked another at the Autumn Ball, "Why does that man's jacket not have coattails on it?" The other answered, "He is from Tuxedo Park." The first gentleman misinterpreted and told all of his friends that he saw a man wearing a jacket without coattails called a tuxedo, not from Tuxedo.<br />
<br />
About two years later, it gained the name dinner jacket (DJ) in Britain. The name to which it should be referred.<br />
<br />
<strong>WHAT DOES IT CONSIST OF TODAY?</strong><br />
<br />
<center><strong><br />
<img alt="2012-05-30-cummerbund_1.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-05-30-cummerbund_1.jpg" width="412" height="541" /><br />
</strong><br />
<br />
</center><br />
<br />
<strong>The jacket</strong><br />
<br />
Single-breasted or double-breasted lapels can be peaked lapel, shawl collar, notched collar.<br />
Peaked looks the smartest and I'd give the notched a thumbs down for this particular scenario.<br />
The facing which will make up the lapel can be satin or grosgrain.<br />
The buttons should and will always be covered.<br />
This jacket should come with no side vents.<br />
<br />
<strong>The trousers</strong><br />
<br />
These will match the jacket cloth and will come with a single braid to match the lapel. N.B double braid is reserved for White Tie.<br />
<br />
<strong>The waistcoat </strong><br />
<br />
Can be worn but, as with a suit, should not be combined with a double breasted jacket. Cloth overload!<br />
<br />
<strong>The shirt</strong><br />
<br />
Should be white, and have either a Marcella or pleated bib front. The collar can be either winged or turn down. If you are wearing White Tie then wing is a must.<br />
Stud or fly front are acceptable. There is something quite smart about going for a studded front. Double cuff is a must for this attire.<br />
<br />
<strong>The bow tie</strong><br />
<br />
Don't wear a ready tied bow tie. It just doesn't look the same as knotting your own. Would you wear a tie that is already knotted? It might take a little effort on your part to learn how to do it, but it will look the business.<br />
<br />
<strong>Other accessories</strong><br />
<br />
Cufflinks that correspond coherently with your studs is important. This is not the uniform to experiment with.<br />
<br />
Cummerbund - if you are wearing a single breasted jacket.<br />
<br />
Finish the look with an elegant splash of white pocket square sitting in the breast pocket.<br />
<br />
<strong><br />
<a href="http://collartocuff.wordpress.com/" target="_hplink">Collar to Cuff</a></strong><br />
<br />
<strong>Follow James Field on Facebook: <a href="http://www.facebook.com/pages/James-Field/249374428406761" target="_hplink">James Field</a></strong>]]></content>
</entry>

<entry>
    <title>What to Wear: To a Funeral</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.huffingtonpost.co.uk/james-field/what-to-wear-to-a-funeral_b_1557211.html"/>
    <id>tag:www.huffingtonpost.com,2012:/theblog//3.1557211</id>
    <published>2012-06-19T19:00:00-04:00</published>
    <updated>2012-08-19T05:12:08-04:00</updated>
    <summary><![CDATA[Black really took hold during the period when Queen Victoria's was on the thrown. After Prince Albert died in 1861 she never wore anything else, and the fashion persisted until the late 20th century. In many ways a respectful colour, it began in the late 18th and early 19th centuries, when death rituals would demonstrate worth and social status.]]></summary>
    <author>
        <name>James Field</name>
        <uri>http://www.huffingtonpost.com/james-field/</uri>
    </author>
    <content type="html" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/james-field/"><![CDATA[<strong>Fieldy's top five:</strong><br />
<br />
&middot;       Be simple. Be respectful. Be smart.<br />
<br />
&middot;       Some funerals will request not to wear black, but for the majority it's all about being conventional and understated.<br />
<br />
&middot;       Wear a dark suit. It needn't be black but is should be dark. Navy or charcoal grey will look  very smart.  Remember to keep things simple, and don't go for a heavy city/gangster pinstripe.<br />
<br />
&middot;       Wear a solid white shirt. You can't beat a crisp white shirt for any occasion and this is no exception. If you feel the need to choose an alternative then go for a plain pale blue.<br />
<br />
&middot;       Wear a plain black tie or one with a minimal texture.<br />
<br />
<br />
<strong>WHY DO WE WEAR BLACK?</strong><br />
<br />
Black really took hold during the period when Queen Victoria's was on the thrown. After Prince Albert died in 1861 she never wore anything else, and the fashion persisted until the late 20th century. In many ways a respectful colour, it began in the late 18th and early 19th centuries, when death rituals would demonstrate worth and social status. The poor could not afford to spend a lot of money on funerals, but the middle and upper classes could. They would spend money on clothing, coaches, coffins and all the accessories that an increasing number of commercial funeral directors were only too keen to sell them.<br />
<br />
<center><br />
<img alt="2012-05-30-images11.jpeg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-05-30-images11.jpeg" width="190" height="265" /><br />
</center><br />
<br />
Queen Victoria with the five surviving children of her daughter, Princess Alice, dressed in mourning clothing in early 1879.<br />
<br />
These days, wearing black is all about showing your respect. The key is that you don't want to stand out at a funeral. It's not the place.<br />
<br />
<strong><a href="http://collartocuff.wordpress.com/" target="_hplink">Collar to Cuff</a></strong><br />
<br />
<strong>Follow James Field on Facebook:<a href="http://www.facebook.com/pages/James-Field/249374428406761" target="_hplink"> James Field</a></strong>]]></content>
    <link href="http://i.huffpost.com/gen/633716/thumbs/s-LEAVING-CHURCH-mini.jpg" type="image/jpeg" rel="enclosure"/>
</entry>

<entry>
    <title>What to Wear: To a Wedding</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.huffingtonpost.co.uk/james-field/wedding-dress-codes-what-to-wear-to-a-wedding_b_1557140.html"/>
    <id>tag:www.huffingtonpost.com,2012:/theblog//3.1557140</id>
    <published>2012-06-12T19:00:00-04:00</published>
    <updated>2012-08-12T05:12:06-04:00</updated>
    <summary><![CDATA[If the wedding dress code is morning suit and you're thinking shall I hire or buy, my advice is to buy. By all accounts if you hire you are looking at a bill of around £120 for the weekend. If you're hitting the age where weddings become part of a weekend regime during the summer months, you only need to go to two in order to justify the cost.]]></summary>
    <author>
        <name>James Field</name>
        <uri>http://www.huffingtonpost.com/james-field/</uri>
    </author>
    <content type="html" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/james-field/"><![CDATA[<strong>Fieldy's top five:</strong><br />
<br />
&bull; When choosing a suit for a wedding choose a plain suit.<br />
<br />
&bull; If you're likely to go to a host of smart weddings in the next couple of years, consider buying rather than hiring a morning suit. It will work out cheaper.<br />
<br />
&bull; For your shirt and tie, if not going white, focus on the pastel colours. Light blues, pinks and creams to compliment the suit.<br />
<br />
&bull; Spend money on your accessories. Choose a quality tie, waistcoat and pocket square.<br />
<br />
&bull; Don't out do the bride and groom!<br />
<br />
So, what do you wear? Thankfully in most cases the invitation will answer the question for you. At least as a starting point.<br />
<br />
<strong>THE LOUNGE SUIT</strong><br />
<br />
These days if you are not in the immediate wedding party or the invite don't state it, a 'lounge suit' (incidentally a phrase I can't stand) is your best bet. For the record the the lounge suit is your classic suit. It could be a work suit, one in navy or grey, but if you're the proud owner of suits that have pin stripes the width of a train track, it's best to choose an alternative for this occasion. During the summer months think "light" - both in terms of fabric and colours. Go for a lightweight wool suit, or perhaps a linen or cotton, if you're in the right climate. If your suit is navy, team it up with pastel pinks or blues or the rock solid white shirt. It's a wedding, so lose the sense of power dressing and wardrobe attitude you might adopt for work, and wear soft colours. You don't want to distract from the stars of the show.<br />
<br />
<strong>MORNING DRESS<br />
</strong><br />
The name originated from the practice of gentlemen in the nineteenth century riding a horse in the morning with a cutaway front single breasted morning coat. In the evolution of time this has become a stable signature for more traditional church weddings. In the UK, morning dress is also worn to certain equestrian events such as Royal Ascot and the Derby. It also features as part of the school uniform for the public school Eton College.<br />
<br />
Tradition might indicate that this should only be worn in the morning, but this isn't so. It is more than appropriate to be wearing morning dress up until around 5pm, but after that the scenario should be different.<br />
<br />
There is still something delicious about wearing a morning suit. Weddings are after all, all about tradition and for me, it's always a pleasure to pop my tails on.<br />
<br />
<strong>TIP</strong>: If the wedding dress code is morning suit and you're thinking shall I hire or buy, my advice is to buy. By all accounts if you hire you are looking at a bill of around &pound;120 for the weekend. If you're hitting the age where weddings become part of a weekend regime during the summer months, you only need to go to two in order to justify the cost. Besides there are some great buys to be had. Marks and Spencer in the UK are offering tails and trousers for a mere &pound;149. Fantastic value.<br />
<br />
To add gravitase to the look spend money on the accessories. Quality shirt and tie, pocket square and waistcoat. Simple. While the waistcoat may set you back a little more than you had bargained for, it will make all the difference in the world to the end result. You can't beat a single breasted silk waistcoat in light grey. Spot on.<br />
<br />
<strong><br />
THE SHIRT</strong><br />
<br />
As mentioned, stick to pastel colours if not going for white. This applies to both the lounge and morning suit options. With the first, a semi cutaway or full cutaway collar will look the part. With the latter, stick with a cutaway. It will sit better underneath the waistcoat lapel.<br />
<br />
If you're wearing a wedding cravat, otherwise known as the Ascot (being associated with Royal Ascot), choose the winged collar.<br />
<br />
<strong>EVENING WEDDING</strong><br />
<br />
An evening wedding tends to call for the most formal approach - a dinner jacket if it's really formal. If it is being billed as an ultra formal event, consider white bow tie and cummerbund. To confuse matters, 'White tie' doesn't mean that you have to wear all white, as most people get confused with. Shirts, waistcoats, ties and bow ties have to be white. A safe bet if unsure about the evening dress code is to go for a dark suit.  Again, pay attention to your accessories a good shirt, silk tie and waistcoat can make all the difference in the world.<br />
<br />
<strong><a href="http://collartocuff.wordpress.com/" target="_hplink">Collar to Cuff</a></strong><br />
<br />
<strong><br />
Follow James Field on Facebook: <a href="http://www.facebook.com/pages/James-Field/249374428406761" target="_hplink">James Field</a></strong>]]></content>
    <link href="http://i.huffpost.com/gen/638254/thumbs/s-BRIDE-mini.jpg" type="image/jpeg" rel="enclosure"/>
</entry>

<entry>
    <title>What to Wear: On a Date</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.huffingtonpost.co.uk/james-field/what-to-wear-on-a-date_b_1557052.html"/>
    <id>tag:www.huffingtonpost.com,2012:/theblog//3.1557052</id>
    <published>2012-06-04T19:00:00-04:00</published>
    <updated>2012-08-04T05:12:12-04:00</updated>
    <summary><![CDATA[Job interviews, weddings, parties. What to wear for these occasions are all a walk in the park compared to deciding what to wear on a date. Rest assured both of you will be as anxious as each other to pitch it right. Easy. Right?]]></summary>
    <author>
        <name>James Field</name>
        <uri>http://www.huffingtonpost.com/james-field/</uri>
    </author>
    <content type="html" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/james-field/"><![CDATA[<strong>Fieldy's top five:</strong><br />
<br />
&bull; Important are the shirt and the shoes.<br />
<br />
&bull; Iron the shirt, not just the collar.<br />
<br />
&bull; One shirt button is reserved, two buttons is relaxed, and three is awful.<br />
<br />
&bull; Wear colours that suit and you enjoy.<br />
<br />
&bull; Shoes, shoes and shoes.<br />
<br />
Job interviews, weddings, parties. What to wear for these occasions are all a walk in the park compared to deciding what to wear on a date. Rest assured both of you will be as anxious as each other to pitch it right. Easy. Right?<br />
<br />
First dates are notoriously tricky for this very reason. She'll want to see that you've made some effort, and you'll want her to think that you haven't gone to too much trouble. The cool, calm and collected man that you are.<br />
<br />
It's all about striking the balance between smart but attainable, and being stylish without going overboard.<br />
<br />
Taking for granted the fact that a shower beforehand does reap a host of benefits, there are two items that will be clocked and judged by the time you've asked your second question. They are your shirt and your shoes.<br />
<br />
<strong>THE SHIRT</strong><br />
<br />
The shirt is always an indication of you and your character. Even if you're wearing a white shirt, it's all about how you wear it. Whether you've got one button undone or two. Whether you've bothered to iron it. For the record, two buttons undone is fine on a good shirt, as long as you don't team this up with a pair of dark shades. "The Sleazy Italian" look will be a non starter for the majority. Three or four buttons and one wonders what the point of wearing the shirt is at all.<br />
<br />
Guys, you know how the right girls never have everything out on display all at once - because it's all about creating the allure of what might lie beneath? Well guess what, same goes for us. Below, you may envy his money, but don't envy the shirt. It doesn't have enough buttons.<br />
<br />
By the time we've all hit the age for dating, we all have a fairly good idea what colours suit us. So wear one that does. And for this occasion don't shy away from wearing a pink shirt if it suits you. It's a colour that radiates confidence and compassion. Two massive points that she'll be looking out for. (Starting to feel like Will Smith in the film <em>Hitch</em> now.)<br />
<br />
<strong>THE SHOES</strong><br />
<br />
"Keep them clean to keep them keen". Why are they so important? After all they're right at the bottom? Think of it like writing a press release without 'dotting the 'i's' and 'crossing the 't's'. Attention to detail is important. Guys get lazy with shoes, and it's always a shame if you've gone to a lot of effort with what lies above. I see it time and time again.<br />
<br />
Shoes can be classic or quirky (if that's you), but make sure they are clean!<br />
<br />
One final thing...<br />
<br />
Too many men never develop a sense of outerwear embarrassment. There are a host of us who somehow think it's okay to dress like we did when we were children. Anoraks away please. Wear a good structured coat.<br />
<br />
It's a shame really, because outerwear on a man can be a truly transforming thing. A coat can help your figure flaws and add gravitas to your frame.<br />
<br />
SO...<br />
<br />
... in case you're wondering, I'm likely to go for a good tailored shirt, sports jacket or blazer and dark jeans. Not forgetting my Cleverley shoes of course!<br />
<br />
<strong><a href="http://collartocuff.wordpress.com/" target="_hplink">Collar to Cuff</a></strong><br />
<br />
<strong>Follow James Field on Facebook: <a href="http://www.facebook.com/pages/James-Field/249374428406761" target="_hplink">James Field</a></strong>]]></content>
    <link href="http://i.huffpost.com/gen/615879/thumbs/s-DATE-mini.jpg" type="image/jpeg" rel="enclosure"/>
</entry>

<entry>
    <title>What to Wear: To an Interview</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.huffingtonpost.co.uk/james-field/what-to-wear-to-an-interview_b_1556927.html"/>
    <id>tag:www.huffingtonpost.com,2012:/theblog//3.1556927</id>
    <published>2012-05-30T15:54:43-04:00</published>
    <updated>2012-07-30T05:12:13-04:00</updated>
    <summary><![CDATA[It takes a further ten impressions to make up for one bad impression. So, no surprise that the first impression you make on a potential employer is going to be the most important one.]]></summary>
    <author>
        <name>James Field</name>
        <uri>http://www.huffingtonpost.com/james-field/</uri>
    </author>
    <content type="html" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/james-field/"><![CDATA[<strong>Fieldy's top five</strong><br />
<br />
&bull;    Invest in a new interview outfit<br />
<br />
&bull;    Look like someone who already works there<br />
<br />
&bull;    Go white shirt and safe tie<br />
<br />
&bull;    Pay great attention to grooming - hair etc<br />
<br />
&bull;    Get objective feedback from others<br />
<br />
<strong><br />
FIRST IMPRESSIONS<br />
</strong><br />
It takes a further ten impressions to make up for one bad impression. So, no surprise that the first impression you make on a potential employer is going to be the most important one. Before you even open your mouth you are judged, and the first judgment an interviewer makes is going to be based on how you look and what you're wearing.<br />
<br />
Your personal appearance will be judged as an expression of who you are and your approach to your work. More so, your clothes will be viewed as indicators of your self-confidence and self-worth. Looking good will make you feel good.<br />
<br />
If you get the image right, it is likely to be noticed but not necessarily remarked upon.  And that's the aim. The recruiter will just feel that you "look right".  However, if you get it wrong, then it might well become too difficult for the recruiter to ignore. You don't want to become the guy with "that tie" or "that shirt"!<br />
<br />
Think about it. What you're trying to do here is to look professional and allowing the recruiter to image you working for them and representing their company.<br />
<br />
Put on what you're proposing to wear and then look in the mirror. Would you hire "you"? Why?<br />
<br />
<br />
<strong>WHERE TO START</strong><br />
<br />
If you are applying to a professional environment, then they are likely to have a stricter dress code.  In this case, try to echo the "in-house" style to reinforce the impression of you as a safe pair of hands and "one of them".<br />
<br />
<strong>Tip</strong>: You can't go wrong with a white shirt, tie and suit for this occasion. It is clean, professional and smart. Guys, make sure the shirt is "white". If it isn't - get a new one. There is no room for anything looking tired here.<br />
<strong><br />
Tip</strong>: The tie should be safe. By all means you can choose something with stripe or pattern but it must be understated. Don't make it a talking point.<br />
<br />
Aim for a "contemporary" rather than a "classic" look if you are trying to convey a more dynamic, creative, high energy impression.  If you look modern and up to date then they will assume that you are too.  This is also important for more mature candidates who worry that they may be seen as "past it".  What you may think looks "on trend" may not be, so it's always useful to seek advice on this.<br />
<br />
Organisations with a casual dress code are perhaps the most tricky regarding an interview outfit.  Wearing a tie could be a major faux pas.   A smart co-ordinating outfit rather than a suit may be more appropriate.  Jeans rarely are suitable even if worn by the majority of the staff on an everyday basis.  Ask before the interview to make sure.<br />
<br />
All interview outfits should be clean, free of dog hairs, deodorant marks, fraying hems or straining zips and buttons.  The interviewer is going to be sitting staring at you for an hour and they will notice every sartorial flaw. Everything.<br />
<br />
Good grooming.  Men need to be clean-shaven or have their beards etc closely trimmed.  Clean fingernails, fresh breath, shiny shoes, deodorant are all essential rather than afterthoughts.  Use aftershave or perfume sparingly as it can be quite intense in a small interview room.<br />
<br />
It is very difficult to be objective about how you look and the impression you make.  People who are close to you are likely to reassure you because they don't want to hurt your feelings and therefore it is difficult to know whether you need to do some work on this or not.<br />
<br />
<br />
<strong>IS IT WORTH IT?</strong><br />
<br />
Your personal image will strongly influence an employer's perceptions of your capabilities, your approach to work and how well you will fit in with their organisation.<br />
<br />
Get the image right and you will find that the employer is already pre-disposed towards you and open to being convinced that you are indeed the right person for the job.  Get it wrong and you will have an uphill battle.<br />
<br />
Good luck!<br />
<br />
<br />
<strong><br />
<a href="http://collartocuff.wordpress.com/" target="_hplink">Collar to Cuff</a></strong><br />
<br />
<strong>Follow James Field on Facebook: <a href="http://www.facebook.com/pages/James-Field/249374428406761" target="_hplink">James Field </a></strong>]]></content>
</entry>
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