Romanna Bint-Abubaker2013-05-19T03:30:44-04:00Romanna Bint-Abubakerhttp://www.huffingtonpost.co.uk/author/index.php?author=romanna-bint-abubakerCopyright 2008, HuffingtonPost.com, Inc.HuffingtonPost Blogger Feed for Romanna Bint-AbubakerGood old fashioned elbow grease.The Rise of the Muslim Fashion Industrytag:www.huffingtonpost.com,2013:/theblog//3.30451712013-04-11T19:15:47-04:002013-04-12T11:44:18-04:00Romanna Bint-Abubakerhttp://www.huffingtonpost.com/romanna-bint-abubaker/
Designers such as Hermes, Aramis, Estée Lauder are the latest in-line of those to be inspired by Arabian inspiration and targeting Muslim markets. See Aramis - Calligraphy, or Christian Lacroix who have been integrating Arabic inspiration into the latest collections. We heard they are intrigued by the emphasis given to the design rather than the body of the woman. In many ways this isn't dissimilar to the fashion of the old traditional English days where the body of the dress played a more important role than the body of the woman.
We are also seeing a new generation of highly-talented designers such as Elie Saab, Robert Abi Nader Abed Mahfouz, Walid Attalah, Essa from the UAE and others who continue to impress the international fashion world with their fusion of modern and Muslim-inspired elements into their ensembles. They are now the pieces of choice for celebrities with virtually every celebrity now owning an 'Elie Saab', it's harder to think of one who doesn't have an 'Elie Saab'.
Each of the new creative works is reflective of the transition from plain and simple Arabic designs to more sophisticated creations that extensively use embroidered elements.
But it's not just great designers who are making it to market, it's the people and service industry behind this market that is going viral. Support services from Fashion incubators to Fashion Shows are going viral.
Haute Arabia, the fashion incubator, a membership based platform for promoting emerging designers and innovation in fashion with a social conscience may be the beginning but many incubation initiatives are commencing across the World - from Al Roudha Centre of Innovation and Entrepreneurship (Qatar) to the Hijab Fashion Week (October 22-27, 2013) (London) to Moscow Fashion Show (Islamic Style) (June 13-17, 2013).
To those who disregard this as a passing trend and who believe the couture houses who have shown an interest in this industry are just 'testing a new market' - the facts tell a different story. If you're wondering isn't this whole Islamic inspired, modest and conservative, Muslim consumer just some small niche market? Note - Major misconception. The Muslim consumer alone - taking out only the countries who might also have preferences for Arabian or Islamic inspired design is no-longer off the mainstream.
The Muslim fashion industry is estimated to be worth $96 billion and is rapidly growing. The fuel behind this growth is a generation of young, confident, tech-savvy-more importantly-product conscious Muslims, who are embracing their faith and confidence. This awakening by Muslim consumers has certainly lifted the markets as we have seen an increase in young entrepreneurs catering for this demand. This is not sector specific but the fashion industry is one major Muslim consumer market of many in which we are seeing high-innovation and exponential growth.
The surge in female designers and female entrepreneurship campaigns is testament to a community of Muslims who understand the power of women in business. Women are finding a way out to market and I don't think fashion will be where it will stop. Entrepreneurship and women entrepreneurship is the heart of Islamic heritage.
When we consider broader market interest from other countries including Israel and mainstream celebrities many of whom have been recently featured in many of the more modest trends from turbans to kaftans we can consider this market as much greater than figures suggest.
Fast Facts on the "Muslim Fashion Industry"
The fastest growing population at 1.8% per annum, the Muslim world population is at 2.1billion today equating to 30% of the world population;
The European Muslim population sits at approximately 53 million;
World demand for Muslim fashion. If we only focus on women, we are talking about at least 800 million people. And 40% of that that, or 320 million, is 25 years-old and under "the spending group";
World market of Islamic fashion - The world Muslim fashion industry is estimated to be worth US96 billion. This is based on the assumption that half of the 1.6 billion Muslims each spend US120 a year on modest clothing.
It was estimated that in the UK with 3 million Muslims, Muslim fashion industry would be worth between US90 to 150 million a year. At that rate, the 16 million Muslims in the EU, a potential clothing market can be valued at US960 million to US1.5 billion a year.
Some Arabian-style outfits can sell for as much as USD 10,000 and yet remain in high demand due to the robust economies of key markets such as the United Arab Emirates.
A Dubai-based company in fact sells abbayas costing between USD 1,500 to 10,000.
The most expensive dress in the world was released on March 19th by Debbie Wingham at17m and it was in fact - a diamond studded Abbaya.
According to a recent study conducted by the French Fashion University Esmod- Dubia, the Middle East fashion sector is expected to post 15% growth in 2010.
The study foresees numerous opportunities in the12bn Gulf clothing market, which is attracting more brands to the affluent and increasingly fashion-conscious region.
In recent years, the fashion industry has noticed an increasing growth and shift in fashion trend for Arabian inspired embellishments and couture. Designers including Valentino 2012, Elie Saab (2012), Hussein Chalayan (1998), Zuhair Murad, have all been inspired by Middle Eastern culture and religion.
At Haute Arabia we know this is a transformation of the global fashion landscape and a trend that is here to stay.
We will engage, capture, inspire and lead our members to create their own brand, or support emerging brands. Simultaneously our platform will save all that trawling through the web for inspiration or modest luxury fashion - it will be in one place, Haute Arabia.
Follow Haute Arabia on this journey to the mainstream.]]>Obesity, Water Scarcity, Unemployment and Why Qatar Needs to Look at Its History for a Solutiontag:www.huffingtonpost.com,2013:/theblog//3.28932882013-03-16T19:44:58-04:002013-05-16T05:12:02-04:00Romanna Bint-Abubakerhttp://www.huffingtonpost.com/romanna-bint-abubaker/
We discussed why Qatar should consider more innovative solutions, which target the reasons for the serve shortage and remove Qatar from the list of highest usage of water per capita. For example, in agriculture water irrigation consumes 60-65% of total water resources in Qatar. Greater awareness and encouragement of innovation in this sector could result in more efficient systems being created. An additional 30-35% of water is wasted in the distribution system and infrastructure network through leakage etc, again further innovation and attention could be paid here. Water pricing, water conservation, water relocation, economic incentives/disincentives, and social recognition for reducing inefficient water use practices are all real and sustainable alternatives which the government should be engaging on.
But ultimately the greatest solution of all would be for Qatar to take a look at it's rich Islamic history. The Prophet Muhammad (peace be upon him) was the greatest advocate against wastage of water. He encouraged the companions not to be wasteful when if they were next to a flowing river.
This is the real solution that if effected in a cooperative manner by a strong public campaign could have genuine impact. This requires education and commitment. Recent attempts to launch campaigns like Tarsheed Qatar and Dubai's new eco friendly mosque opening this year which is expected reduce water and energy consumption by 15-19 percent are good attempts but unless promoted and supported by the government in the mainstream media will have little effect. Water usage needs to become the responsibility of every individual and entity in Qatar with a realization that their current attitude flies in the face of their very culture.
Water scarcity is not the only example of an area where the rich traditional history of Qatar could provide a real solution. Some 17% of the Qatari population are now diagnosed with diabetes compared to the country considered as the epicenter of the global obesity pandemic - the USA where a relative 8.3% of the population suffer from diabetes. Some 73% of Qatari men and 70% of Qatari women are overweight according to WHO's latest statistics.
Qatar wasn't always this way, in fact the rapid development of these issues in Qatar is what is so interesting. These fundamental problems have developed in a span of years as David L Katz points out in his recent article Qatar's Cultural Crisis: Wealth, Health, Wisdom, and Opportunity he goes on to describe aptly how when native culture and lifestyle prevailed, there was little or no obesity. The foods were simple and close to nature but oil and affluence changed all of this. The life many lived following the Prophet Muhammad (pbuh) was by following the direction 'It is sufficient to eat a few mouthfuls, to keep him going. If he must do that (fill his stomach), then let him fill one third with food, one third with drink and one third with air" Today Qatari's with the highest per capita income now have access to the world's food and technology. David describes today's Qatar as "what happens when lifestyle runs off its traditional rails".
The solution then is easy - in a country like Qatar where the traditional culture roots from Islamic heritage and where the people are on the whole a conservative and religious population who do live their lives in many ways following the life of the Prophet Muhammad (peace be upon him). Understanding this and effecting an educational campaign which re-educates and reminds the population of the dangers of allowing this affluence to distract them from their Islamic tradition, whether in how they eat or how they utilize resources is key. Neither is water scarcity nor obesity alone in the issues that could be resolved with this historical understanding and insight into the deep rooted culture but unemployment and other neighbouring countries need to examine their policies in addressing these dilemmas also.
Understanding the history and the connection the people have with their Islamic heritage and a campaign reminding the very Qatar which is frantically expending resources to promote its culture - what culture is it promoting because the heart of the culture taught them how to run and live in a great civilisation, let them not forget that in this process.]]>The Golden Age of the Polymathtag:www.huffingtonpost.com,2012:/theblog//3.13440452012-03-27T19:12:23-04:002012-05-27T05:12:02-04:00Romanna Bint-Abubakerhttp://www.huffingtonpost.com/romanna-bint-abubaker/
It is this contemporary thinking that leads us to compartmentalise our skills as 'doctor' or 'lawyer', 'artist' or 'banker'. What happened to Polymaths?
Definition of a polymath: a person who excels in, or is an expert in a significant number of different subject areas. The concept was coined during a period where numerous great thinkers excelled in multiple fields of arts and sciences. As the accomplished Leon Battista Alberti (1404-1472) said,
"a man can do all things if he will."
In early Islamic civilization there was no single authority that controlled the education system. Education was, however, considered compulsory and more worthy than any form of superogatory worship. The purpose of education was to equip an individual to be an upstanding citizen, who was aware of his responsibilities to the world, society and his Lord. The Islamic view is that only through knowledge can one understand the benefits that his Lord has given him and so be in a state of obedience.
The Prophet (pbuh) who became a physician, judge, arbitrator, lawyer, healer and counselor, is the archetype. A famously quoted saying of his (pbuh) is
"seek education from birth to death even if it is in China"
(China being an example of a distant place). Education was to be broad and cover astronomy, law, theology, poetry, science, philosophy and particularly encourage the etiquettes of learning. Taking poetry as an example, the famous scholar, Imam Al-Ghazali describes the learning of poetry as fundamental to developing the use of rhetoric, the ability to be eloquent and to speak succinctly, which in itself would develop an individual's character. Greek, Roman and all classical education systems placed emphasis on memorising poetry for this reason. Quintillian highlights this in his educational theories where he says:
'there is no foundation for the complaint that only a small minority of human beings have been given the power to understand what is taught to them, the majority being so slow-witted... the greater number are quick to reason and prompt to learn. This is natural to man: as birds are born for flying... so are we for mental activity and resourcefulness.'
It was this system that led to the flourishing of the rational sciences in the Golden Age, subsequently reflected in the prosperity of the Islamic Empire. Mathematicians, astronomers, physicians, engineers and other kinds of scientists were abundant. The system conformed to the law of supply and demand but this was not the sole purpose of education. Education was an obligation in order to develop individual potential and was sought for itself and not for a particular job, status or position in society, which is distinctly different to today.
Well known Polymaths who had a great impact on civilization include Ibn Sina (Avicenna) (980-1037), al-Razzi (860-940), and Husayn bin Ishak al-Ibadi, who developed the medical sciences. Razi is reported to have written 200 books on medicine, one of them on medical ethics, and the Hawi, a 25 volume practical encyclopedia. Ibn Sina became a famed physician at 18 who wrote 16 books. His corpus also includes writing on philosophy, astronomy, alchemy, geology, psychology, Islamic theology, logic, mathematics, and physics, as well as poetry.
Recent studies and discussions through platforms such as Ted have voiced concerns about our current system of education and what we value as 'intelligence'. There is grave concern that we are killing creativity.
We are being 'dumbed down through a serial form of programming' as Sir Ken Robinson, a recognised leader in the development of education, creativity and innovation, describes it. In other words,
"we see extraordinary evidence of human creativity...all kids have tremendous talents and we squander them ruthlessly."
Picasso said,
"all children are born as artists, the problem is to remain artists when we grow up."
What concerns me and should concern all of us is that we are effectively educating children out of creativity and this is being done at an institutional level.
The most alarming statistic Sir Ken provides is from a study on divergent thinking published in Breakpoint and Beyond. Divergent thinking is the ability to think of many answers to a specific problem. This is the first step to problem solving, before we get analytical. 98% of 1500 kindergartners scored at the genius level for divergent thinking. Their scores dropped dramatically as they progressed in the education system. This shows us two things: that we all have this innate potential and that it mostly deteriorates.
The UK Education system is one of the most prescriptive in educating out of creativity. Students are made to select three or four subjects by A-level. Carl Djerassi, a rare polymath of today describes the UK system as a mistake.
"There'll be students here at age 16 or 17 who are much better than many Americans at French or maths or something, but abysmally ignorant in another area," he says. "We really preach intellectual monogamy more and more in this day and age."
So how did we end up where we are? Modern education was coined only in the 19th Century and as a system designed to meet the needs of industrialism. It is only natural then that it will seek to develop a core type of character, one that suits the needs of the market. We are now considered commodities to fill market demands. Schools are a production line. Robinson says,
"our minds have been mined the way we mine the earth for a particular commodity."
Appreciating education as a fundamental virtue, not for a means to an end but as an end in itself, has been lost. This is a distinct shift in thinking from days past.
Thought is dangerous to the power structure of our society. Hence we are consistently distracted from it by entertainment and consumption. The education system itself naturally upholds certain subjects as more important than others. So sciences and maths are given more attention than the humanities, art and music, as subjects which are more likely to lead to economic employment.
Even if you manage to escape and regain some shred of creativity after the attempts to institutionalise you and you decide you want to be a writer and a lawyer and an economist, society just doesn't believe in the idea that any individual can be a polymath. We live in the age of the cult of the monomath. Knowing things makes you weird, not powerful. We have an engrained idea about our purpose and what we should all be like. Monomaths are not just the new standard, but the only realistic possibility, writing off those who wish to specialise in a number of areas as 'dabblers' as described by Edward Carr of The Economist.
We need to understand the richness of human capacity. We are gifted with intellect and we must use that gift wisely. As humans we are the cause of the state of our world and the destruction and suffering we see. As Jonas Salk described:
"if all the insects were to disappear from the earth then within 50 years all life on earth would end. If all human beings disappeared from the earth, within 50 years all forms of life would flourish."