Graveyard Foraging

Historically blackberries were planted around church graveyards to deter sheep or folklore claims, to keep the devil away. Whatever the reason, at this time of year there is plentiful supply of blackberries, hips and haws on both town or country church land.

Foraging is very of the moment and wonderfully seasonal but not restricted to countryside folk. There is plenty for the urban forager to gather in supermarket car parks, city wasteland or even churchyards. The overgrown state of some church yards is upsetting but they are a forager's paradise. I would never gather from well maintained places of rest, this is likely to cause offence and a forager's basket would reap little reward anyway. However, the decline in church going means that many graveyards aren't maintained in the way they once were.

Historically blackberries were planted around church graveyards to deter sheep or folklore claims, to keep the devil away. Whatever the reason, at this time of year there is plentiful supply of blackberries, hips and haws on both town or country church land. Blackberries, rosehips and haws can be combined together to make delicious fruit leathers, which are a rich source of Vitamin C.

The Elder tree is a member of the Honeysuckle family, which like contemporary life is very fast growing. It can frequently be found bending its way around mature trees or intertwined with brambles. In early summer the heady scent of elderflower blossom permeates the air and its creamy, delicate flowers can be steeped with slices of lemon in sugar syrup to make elderflower cordial. Don't over-forage the flowers because in autumn, its branches won't hang heavily with berries, which can be used in pies, preserves, ketchup or syrups. Elderberry wine is for many synonymous with Joseph Kesselring's play Arsenic and Old Lace but when, made to the correct recipe, it is delicious. Be prepared for purple hands and allow plenty of time to strip the Lilliputian sized berries.

In graveyards in spring, there is often a generous supply of Bishop's Weed; this somehow, seems appropriate and there will be violets, which were planted by the Victorians, as a traditional mourning flower. I confess to having gathered violets after Kirk in the full view of the Minister and congregation. I don't feel that picking edibles on church ground is wrong, unless you are gathering greedily or the flowers are protected. In spring, primroses bank graveyard hedgerows and these crystallize well or can be used in curd. I often mix primroses with violets for a splash of graveyard colour when I decorate my baking. Foraging such beautiful, delicate flowers in moderation should not be frowned upon or considered morbid. Graveyards are by far the most peaceful place to forage in, especially in the heart of a busy, bustling city. If I happen to glimpse upon a child's tombstone, it saddens me, but it also makes me count my blessings. A Christian isn't 'spooked' because a cemetery is simply a place, where we remember those once loved physically. During graveyard foraging there is the opportunity for interest in those who have died before us - a lesson in social history as well as foraging for the supper pot.

In the bible Paul in (2 Cor 12 v 7) speaks of a thorn in his flesh, although we are not told what the thorn is. A forager can take this biblical verse literally, when he or she gathers haws or blackberries. Let nobody say that foraging is without cost.

Graveyard Syrup

Makes 350ml

What to find:

250g rinsed elderberries

250ml water

300g caster sugar

Whole star anise

What to do

1. Simmer the berries and water in a non-aluminum pan for 30 minutes until the berries are soft.

2. Use a potato masher to mash the berries and then strain the juice into a glass (plastic may strain) jug.

3. Return the juice (approx 250ml) to the pan with the sugar and star anise and simmer for 20 minutes. Boil rapidly for 2-3 minutes and pour into a hot sterile bottle. When cool seal with a plastic coated lid.

Store in a cool place and serve with ice cream or fresh fruit. Children can dilute the syrup with still or sparkling water to make a rather wicked Hallowe'en style drink.

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