The moon still casts a silver glow over Legetio when Robert Ndeno gets up to milk the cows. Every morning at 6 am the 24-year-old 'shamba boy' makes his way across the dew-soaked grass to the small wooden hut.
It's difficult to describe Rongai without mentioning the litter. It's everywhere, strewn across the streets and piled in the drainage ditches; it's worse in the back alleys, where great mounds of rubbish accumulate beside buildings.
The main highway through the heart of Kenya is crowded with trucks and boda bodas (bicycle taxis), a winding paved road that stretches from Mumbasa on the coast, west through the Rift Valley, and eventually across the border into Uganda.