Hot on the hooves of the horsemeat scandal, Noma, widely considered to be the world's best restaurant, was discovered to have sent 67 diners home with Norovirus during the month of February. It's not quite what you'd expect from a tasting menu that costs £170 a head

Few restaurant dishes have reduced me to silence, and this was a salad for goodness sake. It's true, Dabbous is extraordinary.

So where has all the real food gone? It is still out there, but is now well hidden under sauces and spices and the notion that fine-dining need be synonymous with scientific wonderment on your plate. For my money, I want exceptional food that tastes like food. Things that my body recognizes for what they are, and knows how to digest!