25/08/2010 11:40 BST | Updated 22/05/2015 10:12 BST

Marc Jacobs S/S 2010: Backstage At New York Fashion Week

models at Marc Jacobs spring 2010 Gothic ballerinas hit the carnival at backstage at Marc Jacobs spring 2010. Photo: Elizabeth Lippman

MAKEUP: Francois Nars, founder of Nars cosmetics
Guido Palau for Redken
Ballerinas gone goth

THE SCOOP: The slicked-backed buns say ballerina. The graphic eyes scream carnival. And the powdered and lined brows conjour up geisha. As per usual, it's impossible to guess exactly what's going on in Marc Jacob's brilliant head, but - since he roped in makeup artist Francois Nars last season to create the amazing 80s looks for his autumn 2009 show - we do know that the beauty envelope will be pushed. No "normal" looks here, thank you very much! Our fashion editors tell us that Jacobs drew inspriration from deconstructed ballerinas from Russia and added a tinge of legendary dancer and choreographer Martha Graham for good measure. And, according to Nars, the look portrayed a "just came off-stage" effect. "Dancers in theatre and opera always have white faces, pointed lips and an eye that is drawn outward, not upward - it's very theatrical, very ballet," he said.

GET THE LOOK - MAKEUP: All makeup by Nars. Nars paled-out the skin with Sheer Matte Foundation in Siberia, and gave the lips a wine stain with Velvet Matte Lip Pencil in Pop Life. Eyes were done up with Eye Shadow Duo in Pandora, Eyeliner in Black Moon, and Stylo in Nuits Blanches, plus two pairs of fake lashes per model.

Palau pulled hair up into a tight ponytail at the back of the head. He then twisted it tightly and looped it down, pinning it into a tight bun ballerina bun. He used Redken's Glass 01 Smoothing Serum to slick back flyaway strands and to keep the hair shiny and in place.

GET THE LOOK - NAILS: Nude-colored OPI Nail Lacquers were on all the models' fingers. Barefoot in Barcelona, Samoan Sand, Malaysian Mist and Dulce de Leche were topped with OPI Matte Nail Envy for a matte finish.