Fashion's former darling, London-born Gibraltarian designer, John Galliano has returned to the runway to showcase his debut Maison Margiela Artisanal Couture Spring/Summer 2015 collection in London.
Think OTT appliqué pieces (3D shell faces, safety pins, oversized bead embellishment, crowns, masks made from mirrored jewellery fragments) across tailored coats, dramatic floor-length dresses, skirts and capes.
The indulgent red was all performance, an extraordinary example of texture play and the brand's love of upcycling (beautiful brocades, intricate embroidery, tulle, perspex and gauze). There were flashes of leopard print, sharp black two-piece suits, minimal strapless dresses and column gowns.
Provocative, elegant, one-off looks for women all about a dramatic dress up.
The collection marks Galliano's revival just as it does a fresh start for Maison Martin Margiela and was well received by his audience.
Kate Moss (a close friend throughout the bad press following his self-destruct back in 2011), Burberry's Christopher Bailey, Manolo Blahnik and Anna Wintour (a long time friend and huge supporter) were in attendance.
"It was brilliant," Wintour said after the show reports WWD.
"What I loved was the mix: There was so much that we know and we love about John, but then he took the Margiela vocabulary and translated it in such an appealing and innovative way. I loved seeing all the toiles at the end where you can see all the work and the new embroidery."
Galliano is back and he's got fashion's finest right behind him. The collections for this Parisian-based label can only get better and we've got a feeling they will. Roll on, Paris Fashion Week.