The rain drummed the song of a thousand crowbirds and woodpeckers on the roof of the taxi, as it crawled through the raucous Parisian traffic, making its way to the hotel. I was sure the taxi driver was driving me around in circles, for it had been at least half an hour since we'd left the 20th arrondissment. My feet tapped incessantly and I murmured a self-deprecating curse as I wished for the umpteenth time that I could speak French. Twenty minutes later and the taxi slipped free of the traffic and we were driving through quiet tree lined streets and commanding Haussmannien town houses. Quite suddenly, the taxi halted and the driver rolled down his window, shouted a request, or a question and closed the window once more before turning to say "8 Rue Jean-Goujon, Madame". That at least I could understand, but failing to see any signage telling me I was at the hotel, I momentarily panicked. Before I could express my confusion, the door was opened by the doorman wielding an umbrella, "welcome to La Maison Champs Elysées, Madam," he greeted and I heaved a sigh of relief - it had taken nearly an hour to get there, but I was at the right hotel.
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Waiting to be checked in at the eye catching rhombic prism reception desk, I noticed the design feature on the tiled floor; a glistening white with a scattering of black rhombi, giving the impression of the wind sweeping in fallen leaves - one of the many features clearly bearing the Maison Martin Margiela (MMM) stamp.
Had I the choice, I would have booked the stunning Maison Martin Margiela designed Gilded Lounge Suite with its library of arty and cultural literature, rich wood floors, and trompe l'oeil walls harking back to long gone days of the glamour and beauty of an old Parisian town house or the faded a memory of a fairytale, but my MMM designed room was more than sufficient. Simple, spacious, with more than ample storage and satisfyingly practical with not a single feature being supererogatory. The bathroom with its wholly white tiled walls and floor made it appear even bigger than it was, though the option of a bath as well as the excellent shower would have been much appreciated after a long day of discovering Paris by foot.
I especially loved the trompe l'oeil Persian rug that lay on the carpet in front of my bed. If my colleagues had not pointed out that it was in fact an illusion, I may not have noticed for it appeared pretty real to me. Though, even after I'd discovered this I still found myself feeling for the fringes of the rug under my feet.
A bowl of fruit waited for me on my arrival, which was a lovely and mighty tasty touch and I was relieved that the room included free Wi-Fi access and delighted with the in-room Mac that gave access to free movies. My first night also included the free use of the minibar - a pleasant surprise.
My most favourite thing in the room though, was the bed. Now I more than often have trouble sleeping, or I wake up with a crick in my neck or an achy back (even my orthopedic mattress at home doesn't help), but my bed at La Maison Champs Elysées gave me two nights of pure, blissful, ache-free nights of sleep. I felt like Goldielocks (minus the golden hair, of course), having found her perfect bed, because this bed was truly 'just right' and I indeed fell asleep as soon as my head hit the most wonderful pillows it had ever had the pleasure of dwelling upon.
MMM's poetic fingerprint extends to other communal parts of the hotel as well. Upon entering the hotel you'll discover the white salon with its stark white furnishings, its mirrored illusionary carpet and ceiling, the shadows of proudly presented paintings of past and a sliver of colour in the display of an encased flamingo and cockatoo. A place of utter stillness and calm but not void of warmth or cheer.
In true MMM style there was of course a contrasting room, the black cigar bar. On our brief tour of the hotel, this beautiful esoteric space had me writing whimsical poems and fantastical sagas in my head and though we were told that the cigar room was mostly frequented by men, we were determined to enjoy an evening there. So on our last evening at the hotel, after returning from supper, we took to the cigar bar, with its dark burnt wood walls, discreet lighting, black leather chairs and its cabinet of special cigars. We of course dressed in complementing vintage evening attire and smoked (rather badly) the most excellent cigars. If you happen to stay at La Maison Champs Elysées, it would be a crime to not experience this room.
More Maison Martin Margiela designs reside within the old townhouse hotel. The passage leading to the hotel's restaurant also features trompe l'oeil of intricate wooden doors, detailed cornices, mirrors and arched windows - it's like being in Alice's Wonderland. Speaking of the restaurant, the very first thing I noticed were the ghost chairs; chairs which appear to sit just above the ground, as if floating. Though I instantly celebrated the levitating chairs, the thing I was most fascinated by was their ability to move effortlessly across the floor and without making even a gentle sound. It may sound bizarre or pathetic, but it made me realise just how much screeching, squeaking and clunking chairs irritate me. These chairs though, were cause for a little celebration every time one was used.
Venturing to the other side of the hotel, we found ourselves in a world that screamed science-fiction, with its silver foil like walls and striking installation. It had me imagining myself walking through the hallway of a space station or, a man-made planet of an 80s sci-fi film. It had me fantasizing about all sorts of weird and wonderful ideas for fashion editorial shoots.
My only qualms with the hotel were the lack of plug sockets next to the bed (this meant I couldn't use my laptop as I lay all cozy in bed) - a slight design flaw I think and the lack of tea bags in the bedroom. The latter might appear slightly pedantic, though, for a Brit it's cause for panic and anxiety (okay, that's a slight exaggeration, but if you're British, you'll understand my pain).
What I adored about La Maison Champs Elysées is that though it's a 'fashion hotel' (and my God, it truly is the most wonderful fashion hotel), it doesn't feel at all pretentious and there isn't an ounce of arrogance in its atmosphere. I had never before felt blue about leaving a hotel - not until I stayed at La Maison Champs Elysées. By the end of my stay, the hotel felt like a luxurious home away from (not at all luxurious) home. Could this be my most favourite hotel yet? Actually, yes - without a doubt.
La Maison Champs Elysées' chassis is an unassuming Haussmannien mansion. It sits on a serene, pretty street on the verge of Paris' Golden Triangle, just far enough away from the madness that is Avenues des Champs Elysées, but within easy reach of the auspicious Avenues Montaigne and world-renowned fashion houses Dior, Chanel, Nina Ricci and Chloe. A hearty walk away from the popular Tuileries and the queue ridden Louvre, but just a skip away from the wonders of the Grand Palais and Petit Palais - La Maison Champs Elysées is situated perfectly for a calm, private (yet another MMM trait) and leisurely, highly sophisticated, cultural and fashionable break.
La Maison Champs Elysées is a member of the Design Hotels group.