Mozambique is set to be the hottest (literally and metaphorically speaking) destination to visit in 2012. Considering this country was plagued with the effects of civil war and therefore didn't even figure on most people's travel radar, it is pretty remarkable that it is now touted as the new Mustique/Maldives. I recently spent a couple of weeks in Mozambique's Qurimbas Archipelago on the coast of the Indian Ocean. This is the northern, less frequented part of the country that borders with Tanzania. The food - seafood heaven - the people - friendly and polite - and climate - hot, hot, hot, - were just some of the things that ticked my destination must-have boxes. Here are five more reasons to head to Mozambique in 2012.
Medjumbe This tiny private island - 1km by 500metres- is the place to head to for serious luxury and privacy - great for channelling your inner Greta Garbo. It is a child free zone; not due to any debauch hedonistic goings on. There are only 13 chalets on the island. The 13th is numbered 14 to accommodate those with a fear for the unlucky numeral. (I say get over it). My chalet (all are beach fronted) had a huge four poster bed, comfy seating area, bathroom with bath and shower, an outside shower and your very own plunge pool. It also had a television - which after nearly two weeks of not having one in my room, made me weep with joy and feed my obsession with CNN.
The lodges are far apart enough to give you a sense of isolation that is just right - as opposed to feeling like The Rapture has happened and you are the only one left. All in all, Medjumbe is super laid back luxe personified- the easy manner of Victor, the charming General Manager of the island attests to this. Nothing is too much to ask for. This is not to say I became an overbearing diva it's just that the staff have obviously mastered the art of making you feel, in the words of Rhianna, like 'The Only Girl in The World',* and not like you have a stalker on your hands. The food is delicious, the turquoise sea and beach totally unspoilt,(dinner on the beach is surreal), and there are no annoying tourists in sight. Medjumbe might be shaped like a question mark but when it comes to its proficiency in the art of beach luxe, there really is no question. medjumberesort.com*If you are a man, this song obviously doesn't apply. Nevertheless, the service is exquisite.
Villa Sands When I walked into Villa Sands and saw the elegant mix of pared down walls with a Baroque style mirror and what looked like a vintage glass chandelier, I was sold. I know, I know, that sounds incredibly shallow. If you are looking for a hip, sophisticated stay or hangout on the magical Ilha de Mozambique (Mozambique Island), Villa Sands is it. A slick juxtaposition against the hauntingly beautiful nostalgia of the historic island (think pastel hued colonial, dilapidated buildings), Villa Sands is modern but with clever sumptuous touches that help it refrain from lacking personality. There are 11 rooms - eight of those are on the ground floor designed around a living area and open plan restaurant which is famous for its shrimp and make delicious dishes from the freshest local seafood. The rest of the rooms are up one flight on the terrace where there is also the exclusive Rooftop Suite, its own private pool and terraces. The views over the time-locked Ilha de Mozambique, country's only UNESCO World Heritage Site and former capital of Portuguese East Africa, is mind blowing. Please note that if you suffer from vertigo this could be problematic. Even so, the lively atmosphere and eclectic, multicultural clientele alone makes a visit or stay at Villa Sands essential. villasands.com
Coral Lodge The journey to Coral Lodge is a voyage I can only compare with the process of childbirth. It is a long process that takes a lot of effort, throws you out of your comfort zone and essentially it's not for the faint hearted. Don't allow that to put you off. Like childbirth, it's worth it in the end. That is unless of course you are Eva Khatchadourian - Tilda Swinton's character in We Need to Talk about Kevin. I accessed this barefoot beach retreat via boat and on arrival I thought I was in an episode of 'Fantasy Island', sans the men in white suits. That's how dreamy it looked.
Again white sands, clear sea and a hot but pleasant climate were omnipresent. As were the thatched roof on every one of their chalets. These are so impressively large. The bath so deep, so wide, so snug, I would have happily slept in it. Loved the decor in the living area- designed by Dutch designer Edward van Vliets. The fabrics on the soft furnishings - chaise longue, sofa, foot stool etc - reminded me of quintessential Marni prints. Oh and the generous sized bed had a clever inbuilt air conditioning system in the mattress. The food here - taste and presentation wise - is totally on par with a five star restaurant. You can be as busy - snorkelling, diving, visits to markets and villages - as you like. Or if you're anything like me, use your time to perfect your 'How to Chill' skills.
There are no televisions in the chalets but there is a TV room with lots of English language glossies (that discovery made my day). Also the retreat's' 'living area' overlooking the beach has full wifi service so you don't have to feel totally cut off from the world. Highlight of my stay? The amazing hospitality of the staff (Valentina, Carlos and Domingo are wonderful) and the owners Bart and Alex. Stay here if you want to feel like a VIP in a super chic family home. corallodge1541.com
Pemba Beach Hotel and Spa Travelling with people who do not have the patience for an arduous journey, regardless of how magnificent the final destination is? Then head to the Pemba Beach Hotel and Spa. It is soo close to Pemba airport which is in the northern Mozambican province of Cabo Delgado, approximately 240km from the border of Tanzania. While this is not a boutique hotel by any means - there are 70 odd rooms including suites self catering villas etc, Pemba Beach still maintains a very individual vibe that is unlike other resorts I have visited.
For one the building is incredibly distinctive - the grandiose red brick Arabian style architecture is a nod to some of the country's heritage. The upmarket Quirimbas Restaurant and the less formal Club Naval on the beach front are staffed with people who are attentive and personable so I never felt like I was on some kind of unspoken conveyor belt. If you are with children that need to be occupied 24/7 and you'd rather not have the responsibility, bring them to Pemba Beach - they will have a field day with the numerous activities on offer. Also while there are meals to exceed the criteria of fussy foodies, the menus also offer superior versions of the type of foods kids love.
As a beauty junkie, I made a bee line for the spa. I can, unequivocally say that at Pemba Beach Spa, I had the best message I have had anywhere in the world - and I have had many a massage in my time. The setting helped of course. I could hear the waves crashing outside as I lay on my treatment bed and seeing as the room was bigger than my flat and came with a spacious hi spec uber-grand bathroom, I dreamt of how much better my life would be if I could just move in. When I initially tried to book, the line was constantly engaged which was frustrating but it's worth persevering as it's an experience like no other. pembabeachresort.com
Nuarro If you have an ongoing dalliance with mod cons, relish the whirl of the cooling AC, panic whenever your mobile has no service, prefer your doors to be bolted and locked at night, need an alarm system instead of a whistle and Western style creature comforts figure highly on your agenda, then stop reading now as this is not the place for you. Yes there is wi-fi in the restaurant which overlooks the "Nanatha Island Rock" but essentially Nuarro is all about holidaying with a conscience. It is perfect for those who want to do their bit for the environment while lapping it up in an incredibly scenic environment with nice people who give a monkeys that the world is going to pot.
Nuarro is based on the concept of ethical and fair-trade tourism hence the local community play such a key role they are co-owners of the land. They have formed partnerships with the local community, governmental authorities, national and international NGOs for the support and development of the local villages. They are big on conservation and recycling and really put their money where their mouth is. The 'resort' is powered by sun and wind. The 12 lodges have been built by local people utilising local /eco friendly materials. Natural light is used during the day and very low wattage at other times. Forget your blow dries -there are no hair dryers in the bedrooms. No air conditioners either - just fans. The owners maintain organic gardens as a food source for the resort, there is no pool, and the toilet looks like a toilet but doesn't act like one - everything happens via dry sanitation. If you don't quite understand what that means, please use Google.
Thankfully the resort still maintains a sense of luxe, (just as well because I don't really do 'roughing it') possibly helped by the lovely owners and amazing setting - I've never seen so many whales, my trip to the mangroves was awe-inspiring and I woke up to the sound of the sea every morning. The lodges are all furnished with the requisite four poster beds, seating area and an open plan shower room - no bath (uses too much water). The food - a mix of local and international influence - is all 'home made' - from the bread to the coffee to the crab to the ice cream made with whatever fruit is in season. The lodge is within the Nanatha Bay so it's known for its brilliant opportunities for underwater exploration.
If you prefer land based activities, you can visit the Makua villagers; or hang out at the Beach Bar for cocktails - situated at one end of the resort - and for supper, the more formal restaurant at the other end. A word of warning, the distance between your lodge and the restaurant is a bit of a trek and in pitch darkness with only the very dim light from a tiny eco torch and a whistle to guide you, if I'm honest, I found it quite terrifying. Despite all the assurances of Nuarro being the safest place on earth and me quoting Psalm 23 as I walked, my fear and overactive imagination got the better of me. Halfway down the dark bushy trail, I lost it and ran back to my chalet in the hope that someone would notice I hadn't turned up for supper and hence would come and collect me before I died of hunger. It worked. nuarro.com