Remembering the past has been a fraught process in Spain, a fact perhaps reflected in the attitude of Madrid's tourist authorities who would rather you didn't explore it either. Many believe that old wounds should not be reopened, that Spain should look forwards not back. But lack of accountability means that the wounds - collective and individual - still haven't healed properly.
Eating and drinking aside, there is an array of culture to soak up in Madrid. On arrival I had thought differently. I couldn't list anything I particularly wanted to see or do, with no famous landmarks pitching it as a competitor to Paris. But I was wrong and soon discovered the history that lay deep in old Madrid.
The police were at their most brutal, last week in Tarragona. Where they attacked a 13-year-old boy. His crime? Merely being at the protest. Clearly, this government now has blood on its hands.