Arrivederci To Milan Fashion Week

23/08/2010 10:58 | Updated 22 May 2015

Gucci, Iceberg, Jil Sander, and Salvatore FerragamoFrom left to right, Gucci, Iceberg, Jil Sander, and Salvatore Ferragamo. photos: WireImage, AP, AFP

As the fashion pack moves from the Principe to Paris, we take a last look at the Milan collections...

Back to (very chic) basics: Frida Giannini delivered a highly-lauded Gucci collection, which took inspiration from the "golden eras" of the brand, the '70s and the '90s. Trousers were super flattering, coats were simple but well-cut and the thigh-high boots looked fabulous. What's more, the whole collection was executed in a palette of neutrals, which looked chic and refreshing for autumn.

Milan's taste of England: Christopher Kane wasn't the only designer in town wowing front-rowers like Anna Wintour. Fellow Brit Jonathan Saunders, the man behind the Pollini label, has taken the brand in a completely new direction: younger, sportier and more affordable. Parkas, hoodies and bomber jackets were all layered over kilts and print dresses. We wonder if we'll see Thandie Newton going in this direction, too.

Screen sirens: Hollywood legends, both past and present, are often a source of inspiration for designers and in Milan we saw some of our favourites. Iceberg's calf-length pencil skirts and checked blouses called to mind Hitchcockian heroines from the '60s like Kim Novak and Tippi Hedren, while Massimiliano Giornetti, who recently took over the reins as womenswear designer at Salvatore Ferragamo, took the brand back to its roots. A short film with images of screen icons like Audrey Hepburn, Marilyn Monroe and Greta Garbo (whose personal style is the subject of the current exhibition at the Milan Triennale, sponsored by Ferragamo), set the tone for the collection of wardrobe staples like buttery-soft suede coats and well-tailored wool trousers.

Tomb Raider meets The September Issue? This season, designer Raf Simons took the minimal aesthetic at Jil Sander to the future with an Angelina Jolie-as-Lara-Croft-inspired wardrobe of catsuits, sheer shorts and fitted jackets paired with Velcro-fastened boots and bags. But that wasn't the only direction Simons' went in as dresses and suits spun from knits and tweed checks also came down the runway, evoking Anna Wintour's work uniform.


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