IN A NUTSHELL: The beauty in mundane things was the starting point for a collection that incorporated life's rich tapestry into its prints; from pencils to spoons to typewriters to chess pieces and clothes hangers. "For the past few seasons I've focused on Art with a capital A," Katrantzou told us backstage, "so this season I decided that I wanted show the beauty in everyday and mundane things". There was also a shift in her approach to colour: gone was the dazzling riot of clashing colour, and instead looks focused on a specific hue. "I wanted it to be like a Crayola crayon box, starting with white and going through the whole spectrum to black - but it was tough! I had to be very strict with myself and make sure I was being restrained!"
Over the seasons Katrantzou's work has strayed more and more into the realm of couture, and this time things were taken up a notch with a collaboration with legendary French haute couture embroidery house Lesage. "I really hope that we work together more, their level of skill really allows me to take my designs in more of couture direction".
BEG, BORROW OR STEAL: Katrantzou expanded her silhouette repertoire and experimented with babydoll and flowing silhouettes. "The filmy chiffon layers were a nightmare, you had to be a mathematical genius to work out the print placement", she sighed. But it was worth it, and the floating clouds of chiffon took her work in a new direction - and we're convinced we'll be seeing them soon on f-row fan Alexa Chung. The lavishly embellished knitwear dresses were also a new direction, and the final corseted dresses - inspired by Victorian bustles - are surely the ultimate party frocks.
VERDICT: The show started late apparently because Anna Wintour had requested a pre-show viewing - impressive, especially given the 9am start time*. No one seemed to mind though, and the f-row was strewn with Katrantzou's followers wearing her ready-to-wear and Topshop collections. Katrantzou may have made a name for herself thanks to her explosive use of textile designs, but this season she once again showed that she is far from being a one print pony. The lavish embellishments and new silhouettes felt more sophisticated, and with each season it feels like she nudges that bit closer to the lofty heights of haute couture.
*Fashion people do not like early starts.
View more from the Mary Katrantzou collection in the gallery below: