WHO: Yoshiyuki Miyamae for Issey Miyake
IN A NUTSHELL: The Issey Miyake show opened with an introduction to a new 'steam stretch' fabric, complete with a catwalk demonstration on how the silk and stretch yarn materials work. Dresses were hung up in a row along the runway before a team of assistants in white-coats started ironing them out with steamers to soften and shrink the fabric. Models soon appeared, and once they had been dressed in the crinkly styles, the show was ready to start. What followed was a collection full of texture, 3D shapes, graphic prints and startling colour.
BEG, BORROW OR STEAL: The tailored pieces were layered with jacquard and silk textures in diamond shapes, but things got really fun when it came to the outerwear. Woven cocoon coats were worn with printed, multi-coloured tights and light-weight knitwear, there were puffed up, down-filled styles in both cropped and long versions, and gemstone inspired, printed fabrics were attached to the collars and pockets of bright woolen jackets.
VERDICT: Once the technical side of the show was over with, Miyamae took us on a journey through a brilliant, multi-coloured Autumn/Winter collection. He described the theme for this season as 'Mineral Miracle' and he used the 'steam stretch' fabric to 'capture the beauty and power of the natural world'. There were some moments where this idea was made clearer than others - the gemstone inspired fabrics which emerged from woolen coats referenced the layers and textures of minerals but the overall theme that stuck out for us was one of transformation. Miyamae transformed squares of fabric into a highly complex, geometric collection, just as nature adapts, alters and polishes minerals. Far from a cliche, Miyamae's innovative interpretation of this was captivating and exciting. Watch out world, 'steam stretch' has arrived.
More from the Issey Miyake collection below: