Having vicariously followed her career via Gabby Young (who frequently wears Inbar Spector ensembles on stage) and Katie Antoniou, and then seeing her mesmerizing SS12 catwalk show in September, I could not wait to discover Inbar Spector's Autumn/Winter 2012 collection at London Fashion Week.
View my photos from the show, at Lionheart Magazine.
A rendition of Obsession, by Army of Lovers, set the tone for a dream like, fantastical presentation and a gale of anticipation seemed to sweep the room as the house lights dimmed and the flood-lights awoke, and the sound of nimble footsteps approached the stage - a model clad in a gold, faux leather jumpsuit, with what appears to be the metamorphosis of Inbar Spector's signature detail; the omnipresent intricate cutwork, on faux leather pieces. The leather was juxtaposed with a voluminous garland of gathered and intertwined silks, in blushes of apricot and lavender, giving the appearance of a trapeze artist or a clown in a circus.
Otherworldly and enigmatic characters, fairy tales, fantasy and manga, have all contributed to the creation of the collection, which chronicles visions of escapism and the desire to be something or someone else. Fascinated by the very idea of cosmetic surgery and augmentations; the ever increasing dissatisfaction with body shape and size so prevalent in our society, and the continuing rejection of nature and the natural, Inbar strives to explore and interpret these very real issues through the vehicle of her designs.
She achieves this (and rather successfully too, might I say), by using different layering techniques, a variety of textures, including silk, lace and leather, and forming her clothes into unconventional shapes and silhouettes. The idea behind the cutwork on the faux leather is to portray an augmented, fantasy creature, where, where the skin ends and the garment begins, is indeterminate. I believe, Inbar's collection also applies to a craving for control, which I'm sure, at least the majority of humankind experience at some point in our lives.
Delivering supremely, her rather reflective theme, the designer also delivers aesthetically. I probably wouldn't be too keen on wearing any kind of jumpsuit, let alone Inbar's daring take on the infamous garment, but the rest of the collection, I would wear in a heartbeat. I love the elaborate ruching of the chiffons and tulle and the way the skirts are expertly sculptured so that they move effortlessly and proudly. The colours cast, too embrace the essence of the fairy-tale, dream-like approach of the collection's theme; with mists of smoky pink, pale celadon green, antique gold and seashell cream.
To achieve the perfect styling of the garments, Inbar Spector collaborated with milliner and costume designer Lara Jensen who created the enthralling headpieces that fell gracefully over the face. Going back to the philosophy behind the collection, these jewelled veils appeared to symbolize the crushing of 'the voice' and the very real and human need to speak and be heard and the forming of barriers when rejected by society and when needs and feelings are drowned out or pushed away.
Another beautifully styled (by Hope Von Joel) and powerful collection from Inbar Spector, one that resonated enthusiastic applause and intermittent cheers of 'go Inbar!' during the show. As I've no doubt mentioned before, I really appreciate designers dressing in their own designs for their shows, so I was delighted to see Inbar favouring a silver perforated leather and white silk chiffon ensemble as she took to the runway to greet her audience.
On our way out of the stunning gallery at Freemasons' Hall, we had a brief chat with Shingai from the Noisettes, who was attired in an exquisite Inbar Spector dress, from the designer's SS12 collection. I'm very proud to say, I had the opportunity to work with that very dress for a photoshoot, styled by Katie Antoniou and photographed by Claire Huish (being published soon!).
Inbar Spector continues to be the choice of many a creative celebrity, and I expect to see her creations capture the red carpet at many a high-end event in the near future.
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