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Simone Rocha

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Someone yesterday reminded me that they would be combing my fashion weeks reviews to see what I thought of their favorite designers and a little shiver went up my spine thinking how good many of the shows I've seen have been. A few shows have stood out as being pretty magnificent.

So I am not in fact still trapped backstage at Simone Rocha at Somerset House at London Fashion Week for her Autumn/Winter 2012 show, but my mind is laden with the images. Smudged wool and crochet delicately adorning collars and used in a new and clever way.

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Collars ran from simple wool crocheted single stitches...

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...to cotton collars trimmed with rows of white or black blanket stitches.

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Treated as a removable accessory, Simone Rocha made the collar her own again this season. (In her last two collections she floated collars separate to garments and created them from gingham, organza and lace sandwiched safely in plastic which looked gossamer light.)

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Smudges of wool also came densely tufted and teased to create a collar which sat beneath a cotton collar.

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The tufted wool was inspired by feral tribal imagery from Papua New Guinea and the theme was further enhanced by the hair which was teased into a signature fringe by James Pecis.

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Dublin street children of the 1930's was another theme which Simone Rocha used as an examination of new and old Ireland - boys and girls - wild and refined. The model's pale skin reminded me further of this.

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Crochet was further used in headpieces

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Flashes of texture from Rocha's signature colored perspex heel....

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...to sleeves on dresses fashioned from guipure.

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Touches of Melton and Linton tweed (used extensively by Chanel), tulle, and mohair

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Lots to love this season from this very strong collection by Simone Rocha who's experimentation with texture seems to be going from strength to strength.

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