A graduate of London College of Fashion (LCF), Matteo Mollinari showed his Spring/Summer 2013 menswear and accessories range as part of LCFM, an initiative that brought together LCF menswear alumni Molinari, Domingo Rodriguez and Asger Juel Larsen to show their collections to an attentive audience that gathered on a runway at the Royal Society of Arts on 15 June 2012.
Mollinari's elegant collection for Spring/Summer 2013, with its carefully selected fabric, rich knitwear and laced shirts and suits, speaks volumes in the lexicon of men's fashion and confirms him as one of the most accomplished menswear designers of his generation. This is the work of a designer who has mastered not only traditional folklore sartorial manufacturing but has analysed and incorporated with extreme delicacy the trends and styles of Elsa Schiaparelli in the 1930s, Balenciaga in the 1950s, and Japanese designers of the late 1980s into contemporary interpretations of menswear. The extremely well-edited collection included column sleeveless shirts with granddad collars, cropped jackets on their own or as part of suits, wide trousers, and very seductive knitwear in a palette of white, black, cream, light grey and different shades of red. As also featured in previous collections, Mollinari complemented the range of clothes with stylish spectacles and sunglasses.
This was, most definitely, a collection that deserved to be shown on the main runway of London Men's Fashion Week instead of the Vaults at the Royal Society of Arts. At The Style Examiner we cannot wait for Matteo Molinari to finish his practice-based PhD in Fashion from LCF with flying colours and start producing collections to the delight of many fashion journalists and buyers from all over the world.
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