Dear Urban Outfitters,
We've got a problem, you and I.
You might not be aware of it, distracted as you are by the armies of spendy hipsters that march through your doors each week, but our relationship has been deteriorating for years. If indeed, it was ever truly a relationship to begin with - I've hankered after your nostalgic blouses, your vampy skirts and your little strappy dresses for yonks now, while you remain coolly oblivious.
Not to toot my own trumpet, but I'd like to think that on paper, I'm the kind of customer you'd like. I'm 23, I live in London, I work in the media. I throw more of my income than is sensible at the high street, and I'm a sucker for a whimsical trend. If you wanted, you could probably have quite a lot of my money. You'd like that, wouldn't you?
So what's standing between you, me and this beautiful cash-splashing coupledom, then? Well, a zip. Or a few zips. The zips on your clothes that I can't do up, despite wriggling, wrenching, partially dislocating joints and inhaling till I turn puce.
You see, while most high street stores stick to the conventional 8, 10, 12 sizing, up to 16 and beyond, you prefer to keep things rustic with XS, S, M and L. Which might be fine, if my 12-14 figure could fit into the 'M' that I'd expect it to. But it doesn't. Often it doesn't fit an L. Now, I made my peace with not being Alexa Chung many years ago, but I'm still moderately confident that if you saw me walking down the street you wouldn't immediately think, 'Hark! There thunders an EXTRA-LARGE woman.'
Have you ever heard of breasts, Urban Outfitters? Of course you have, I'm sorry for being patronising. But did you know that we can't conveniently detach them, or reposition them under our armpits, each time we'd like to wear a garment that isn't made of stretch jersey? It's just that, sometimes, when I'm trying on your clothes, it seems like you're not very familiar with the concept.
Then there are hips. These are like breasts, but lower down, on the sides, and not as squishy. It would be nice if we could contain these in our clothes too, as an alternative to, y'know, carrying them in our handbags or wearing them as a decorative headpiece. A little arse-accommodation would be good as well, though I realise that might be stretching it (boom boom).
You're not the only ones, of course. I've rarely exited a Zara changing room without tears in my eyes and bruises on my ribs, or had an encounter with American Apparel that didn't leave me reaching for the gin bottle. Up and down the high street, stores are playing fast and loose with sizes and our gymnastic capabilities. I've been stuck in more impossibly-designed garments than you've had hot dinners.
But before you dismiss this as yet another chubby girl rant, let me assure you that it isn't. It's a piece of sage business advice. You're making money, I'm sure, given that you sell ironic pendants for the price of a weekly travelcard, but you could be making more. Oh, you could be making SO much more - if you weren't alienating a massive portion of your potential customer base.
And yes, I'm wishing I hadn't just used the words 'massive portion'. It was between them and 'huge chunk'. Pass me a biscuit.
We're all here, you see, Urban Outfitters. Look, over here! The ladies with the swinging handbags and great hair. We're not that scary. In fact we're a lot like your other customers, just slightly better insulated against the cold. Our demands are simple - we want clothes that do up properly, don't brand us gargantuan humans when we're patently not, and look foxy.
Are you ready for this jelly, Urban Outfitters? Are you?
Love,
Lauren (or 'XL' to you)
Follow Lauren Bravo on Twitter: www.twitter.com/laurenbravo
Lou Stoppard: On the High Street: The Rise of Designer Collaborations.
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Western consumer will be appeased.
So relax.
Clothes for wealthy women were simply marked several sizes smaller to appeal to their ego, a size 10 for us middle class folks was marked as a size 4 for wealthy women who could never be too thin.
Today each manufacturer has different measurements depending upon who their target is.
Lesson learned - ignore sizes because it is one of many marketing ploys
hmm, makes me nostalgic for the days when women bought clothes that were then altered to fit them and it was included in the price. Penn Fifth Ave was one of those stores.
Just to be clear, size 6-8 girls (or small in this case) also have hips and breasts, but they are just smaller than yours.
If you wish for the company to tiptoe around the matter, then perhaps they could go with sizes 'small', 'not as small as small' and 'not small at all'.
A company has to cater to their audience and define their sizes within the spectrum of sizes that comes as a result of that. Clearly most people shopping at UO are size 6-14, so 6-8 is xs, 8-10 is small, 10-12 is medium, 12-14 is large and above is XL.
They have done exactly what Evans have done. Their customers are size 14-34. They therefore define 14-16 as small, 18-22 as medium, 24-28 as large and above that is extra large. That doesn't mean that those below size 14 should get ratty as they are supposedly considered miniature to the extreme. They have simply said, like UO, that within the spectrum of the customers that some people are the smallest, others are medium and others are the largest.
If XL causes offence, then so could 'extra small'. So could 'short'-sized trousers.
It's just fashion though. Skinny is in at the moment, which means the rest of us (relative) whales will have to make do with slim pickings until the trend shifts back to people with actual body mass. I don't really begrudge skinny people the ability to buy clothes that fit.
I don't think it's a size issue - I think it's a problem with the people designing the clothes not looking at the shape of different women.
None of those cute clothes (Urban Outfitters, H & M, Forever 21, etc.) will fit my size 12 body. None. I've learned to be creative with discount chains (TJ Maxx, Marshalls), became best friends with the Gap, who for years has had reasonably priced clothing styled for normal looking women, and the best solution for the economy, utilizing small boutiques and asking for help with selection.
A bit of irony about the letter sizing: On a New York shopping trip, I tried on countless dresses at Century 21, looking for a new little black dress. I had gained a considerable (20 lb!) amount of weight after quitting smoking and could not find ANY that would fit. I tried on at least 10 that were sized anywhere from 10 to 14, with none of them fitting correctly. After leaving them in a disheveled pile on the floor, I walked into a small boutique on Broadway, found a cute black dress that had an "L" on the tag, and it fit perfectly. I still have it, 3 years later, and is one of the most fashionable items I own.
Small boutiques usually can work with you to find something that flatters your body. You may have to pay a little more, but it's worth it, and since you live in London, you shouldn't have a problem finding some that are a little lower in price. Good luck.
My point is, it's not just the UK where supposed "average" sizes are just too small. I've just accepted the fact that I'm going to have to pay more for clothes that will fit properly. The cheap, mass-produced clothes from the chains are exactly what you pay for.
and one must accept the vagaries of fashion
--- sorry, it's impossible to grade up sizes in a way so that a small, slight woman, and a tall, curvy woman can wear the same garment in their own size, except for some knits
Right now, young clothing and designer clothing are cut TIGHT -- when I look at the sale racks where I used to find lots of size XL, the pickings are slim, because not everyone can wear things tight or wants to, so they may buy XL rather than L
Is this fair? Was it fair when clothes were oversized, years ago, and I could wear L, but the small people were overpowered by size S?
And may I mention that Urban Outfitters owns another store, Anthropologie, which is more geared to women of 23 and older