Saturday mornings for me are normally spent recovering from Friday night, generally with some vague notion of hitting the gym to sweat it all out. However during London Fashion Week there is only one place you will ever find me, Jasper Conran. Going to Jasper is glimpsing into another world, one of genuine old school British talent. The celeb count reflects this too: Richard E Grant, Beverley Knight and Dame Kelly Holmes to name a few. Clearly not everyone is as dedicated to the cause of fashion as my goodself, and having been given the order by the PR to move forward I shoehorned myself into one of the coveted front row seats. Phone charging, thanks to Vodafone, and decent photo taking opportunities were mine!
Over the past few seasons we've seen some select girls walk down Jasper's catwalk, from the 60s gamine to a colour block loving St Tropez summering feisty debutante. But this weekend saw a much more mature cut appearing. Still exuding still and poise but with a more forgiving silhouette. Jasper isn't the only place we've seen this cut but in contrast to last season's offerings it was certainly noticeable. Neutral tones and deep sheen luxe fabrics that were practically metallic brought this collection to life. Craft learnt and developed the hardway once again gave rise to a collection that was classic and pure, with few overly extravagant elements but interesting enough for elements to pique many peoples interest.
The asymmetric neckline in a few places lifted the collections modernity, whilst sequins provided needed youth and exuberance. Jasper Conran knows his women, mother, daughter and effortlessly stylish grandmother all in the same collection. Never alienating, never ignoring and somehow never condescending any age group. Be it a deep brown with metallic block dress, a bold and wide polka dot tulle and satin dress, or buttery mellow biker jacket, he spoke to them all. Sitting beside an exquisitely groomed lady who was undoubtedly a client this was patently obvious. The delight in her eyes and unrealised murmurs was like listening to a diner cherish a brilliant presented meal. Not every single element may be precisely for them but that does not stop them savouring every morsel.
Were I to nitpick, I would have left the feathered numbers aside, but editing from the audience with the benefit of seeing the collection at it's best is a luxury no designer ever has. The truth of the matter is this collection, without overtly direct and tired cliches of England, delivered luxe modern heritage. Old money stating without pretension or derision who they are in a subtle yet emphatic way exactly who they are. Leaving clues to its origins and existence to those in the know, without ostentation. A skill which epitomises refined British glamour, all in all a beautiful collection.
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