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Travel Eye: The Must-See Gems of Sri Lanka

Posted: 30/06/2012 00:00

Far away in the Indian Ocean lies a little teardrop of an island called Sri Lanka. It's situated just 20 miles off the southeast coast of India and is tiny in comparison to some of the big islands out there - being just 268 miles long and 139 miles wide.

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Although Sri Lanka is thought of as a rather exotic island, it exudes a gritty feel. Arriving in the capital Colombo on the southwest Coast, you can't miss the occasional cow aimlessly wondering down the main road and it's a common sight to pass an old sarong-clad man on a stool outside his shop, pouring some rice and curry into his mouth. Navigating the roads is also quite the experience - if you make it from the airport to your hotel without having your hands over your eyes at least once, you've been lucky. But that doesn't mean you should worry - the taxi and bus drivers negotiate these roads day in day out, they know what they're doing.

But it's only once you leave the dusty hustle of the big city that you will really begin falling in love with Sri Lanka (it's not easy getting gushy over the constant bibbing on car horns in the city). Because away from the big neon bar signs and flashy brass-selling stores, you'll find jungle, long stretches of golden-sandy beaches and ancient ruins - all of which will have you looking on in awe.

The food is divine too - you won't resist the coconut-based curries which ooze flavour and spice, without being too hot for your taste buds. And if you choose to wash it down with a king coconut which has been chopped open for you on the side of the street - you'll feel like you've never tasted something so refreshing!

There are so many sights, smells and sounds to take in, but here are a few of my favourites; a few gems that you just can't miss in Sri Lanka. It's worth the winding car ride to get there and even the tenner you might have to pay to get in. But the beauty you see once there, well that's raw and untouched and definitely worth it.

The Temple Of The Sacred Tooth Relic

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Up in the Hill Country lies Kandy - a city of history and lush green hills. The town centre is set just by a gorgeous lake and it is here that you'll find an array of gemstone specialists, antique stores and sari makers.

The air is lighter and cooler up in Kandy - a definite relief from the smoggy atmosphere of Colombo, but it's the scenic beauty and the culture that will really grab you. Just around the corner from the town is the Temple Of The Sacred Tooth Relic - an ancient Bhuddist building which houses (as the name suggests) the relic of the tooth of Bhudda. As you can imagine, this is a very important place to the locals.

You can watch the monestary rituals being performed three times a day (at dawn, at noon and in the evening) and you are welcome to wander through the grounds to the temple itself. Remember, it is custom to take off your shoes when entering the religious building and shoulders and legs knees must be covered.

The Tea Fields

You may not know this, but Sri Lanka is the world's third largest producer of tea - impressive huh! And considering us Brits drink a lot of the stuff, it's very fascinating to see where it all comes from. Not far from Kandy, you'll find a whole host of tea plantations - which put together provide over one million people with jobs.

Just by taking a stroll, you'll see the local ladies picking the leaves from the plantations - and if you stop off at a factory, you'll get a good lesson on how those leaves go from being on a plant to being in a tea bag. You'll also get a complementary cuppa at the end, which is totally worth it.

Pinnewala Elephant Orphanage

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This little sanctuary on the road to Kandy is a place that will make your heart melt. Here you will meet young, elderly and sick wild elephants who have been brought in because they need constant care and attention from local volunteers and workers. The staff will encourage you to be active and if you're not too nervous, do offer to feed the baby eles their milk. You can also have your picture taken next to any adult-eles who are feeling photo-friendly (at least one usually is).

If you're feeling particularly brave, you can even go on a bit of a ride through the trees on the back of one of the trained elephants. The £10 ride comes with a caretaker and someone who will look after you and talk you through the trail - so you're never on your own. And there's even a chance for a little play in a local stream if you're up for getting splashed.

And if you're there around sunset, ask to follow the elephants down to their bathing grounds - a nearby river. Here you can watch the large herd play in the water while you enjoy a well-earned juice and roti in the nearby café.

Sigiriya Rock

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Fancy a bit of a hike - or better still, a great view? Then this SL gem will fit into your trip nicely. Sigiriya Rock Fortress - a UNESCO World Heritage Site - is a 1,214ft high stone structure in the central district of Sri Lanka. It's thought to be a 'magma plug' from a now extinct and long-disappeared volcano.

The walls of Sigiriya show scribblings from pilgrims and it's thought that the rock was used as a shelter for a monastery way back in 5th Century BC. The surrounding gardens make a scenic walk beforehand and of course the view from the top is quite special.

Even the local little kiddies and old aunties are able to make it to the top. Just beware, there are quite a number of steps so bring plenty of water and take it easy.

Ancient ruins of Polonnaruwa

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Polonnaruwa is Sri Lanka's medieval capital and it's here where you'll get to be really adventurous with your history.
The ruins of the ancient city are there to be discovered and within the area, you'll find the left overs of palaces, dagobas, temples and walls. It's truly beautiful to see.

Nearby Habarana and Dambulla are worth a visit too, because you'll find scattered ruins en route. There is also a rather locally well-known wild elephant who always seems to be hanging out on the road to Dambulla.

Adam's Peak (Sri Pada)

Another sky-high feature of Central Sri Lanka is this stunning 7,359ft conical mountain. Visitors from all faiths come from miles around to make the trip to the top of Adam's Peak - all in order to see the 'sacred footprint' which lies near the summit. Thought to belong to Buddha, this footprint is over 5ft 11in in length.

You'll need to be fit to scale this one - so it may not be one for all the family, but it certainly is something unique if you do decide to do it, especially if you start the hike early enough to watch the sunrise from the mountain. It really is a wonderous view from up there! The trip to the top and back down can take up to seven hours, so give yourself plenty of time, carbs and water!

December to April are the best months to visit - the other months of the year are likely to bring heavy rain to the area.

Unawatuna and south coast beaches

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Drive south of Colombo on the Galle Road and you'll eventually reach the south coast - and here's where you'll find some of the prettiest beaches on the island. There are palm trees-a-plenty and a series of cute boutique hotels to stop off at if you fancy lunch or even a stay.

Avoid the rainy season and visit Unawatuna between November and March - the snorkelling reefs are beautiful and you'll find plenty of backpacker pals and family holiday-makers to chat to. If you prefer a bit of isolation, Mirissa Beach just down the road is more of a sleepy village and has a slow sandy stretch to go with it.

Yala National Park

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Imagine driving down an old sandy path and coming face-to-face with this fella above. That's the kind of adrenaline rush Yala can give you. Of course, it can't be guaranteed that you'll see every animal on the list (spotted deer, wild buffalo, mongoose, jackal, sloth bear, crocs), but if you look hard enough, you're bound to see a fair few elephants roaming about often with their young in tow - and if you're super lucky, you might spot a leopard.

The national park itself is found on the South Coast and covers a crazy 100K hectares of jungle. The best way to see it all is on a jeep safari - because the locals know the best places to take you. Early morning is the time to be there, or at dusk. Always have a guide with you.

A two to three day visit is usually the right amount of time to see as much as you can, so if you choose to stay in the park, be prepared to pay extra for the good location. It is worth it - walking up to the sound of elephant cries at 6am is one of those 'once in a lifetime' things people talk about.

Batticoloa and the East Coast

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Trincomalee usually gets all the East Coast attention, so it's about time the laid-back town of Batticoloa got some love. Stop here for the night and you'll be privy to some stunning sunrises - and if you can wake yourself up early enough, make sure you head to the beach to watch the fishermen bring in their catch. It's quite a stunning sight - and if you make a stop off at the market on the way back from your early morning escapade, you're likely to be eating some of that goodness for lunch!

The East Coast is slightly less developed than the rest of the island beaches so if you're after some old-school Sri Lanka, this is the place to be. Nearby Aragum Bay has even been making its way up the popular lists thanks to its great surf

The deals:

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Flights to Colombo from London Heathrow begin at around £750 return.

Entry into Pinnewala Elephant Sanctury is currently Rs2000 which is about £10, depending on the exchange rate.

Yala National Park is probably the priciest of these recommendations - but is well worth forking out that extra bit. It's approximately £20 for a half day safari, which includes entry fees, guide and jeep - although guides will expect a tip. It's £10 if you're bringing your own vehicle, but a 4x4 is recommended and guides charge extra. Accomodations prices vary according to season and availability. These are best booked in advance.

Entry to Sigiriya National Park is approximately £15. But you can also buy a Cultural Triangle ticket which will allow you entry to the ancient cities of Polonnaruwa and Anuradhapura, cave temples of Dambulla, and Sigiriya rock for £30. This ticket is valid for 14 days.

Finally, an energetic climb up to Adam's Peak won't set you back anything at the moment, but it will require an early morning start!

PICTURE CREDIT: Karen Edwards

 

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Far away in the Indian Ocean lies a little teardrop of an island called Sri Lanka. It's situated just 20 miles off the southeast coast of India and is tiny in comparison to some of the big islands out...
Far away in the Indian Ocean lies a little teardrop of an island called Sri Lanka. It's situated just 20 miles off the southeast coast of India and is tiny in comparison to some of the big islands out...
 
 
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07:00 PM on 06/30/2012
As someone who grew up in Sri Lanka, I am sad to see people trying to force tourism away from our beatutiful country, as per the comments below. Yes, there have been some devastating crimes that have happened, but we need tourists for our economy - and as Jon says below, we are not the police, government or terrorists. We want Sri Lanka to develop. Why such negativity? Karen, I enjoyed your article and it brought back memories of some of the very special places back home. I'd recommend visiting Sri Lanka to anyone. It is a gem.
01:31 PM on 06/30/2012
Torture in Detention Centres in Sri Lanka.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yNBpmhyQQ1A&feature=player_embedded

War widows are subject to abuse by the mono-ethnic military presence in a country where corpses were abused (UN Report)
10:28 AM on 06/30/2012
Please remember the government, police, and army are not the population of Sri Lanka.

Tourists do have a positive affect on the economy for the local people, and they are poor. The more tourists there, the less that the government can hide their vicious actions.

We all bring back photos and stories of the people we meet, Sri Lankans are a wonderful friendly nation, ruled by a harsh goverment. Also, remember it was no fairy tale life for the Tamils in the North when they were ruled by a harsh regime. As always the people suffer in the midst of the few that cling to power at any cost.

This articile brilliantly laid out the beauty and diversity of a small island nation, and brought back memories of my most favourite holiday todate!
01:21 PM on 06/30/2012
Correction:

Not the tourists, but the media and peace activists bring out the true picture from the brutal regimes.
Attacks on journalists, embassies, mosques, libraries are the history of Sri Lanka.

If you read the news, only one out of 1000 write about tourism in these rogue countries.
I have serious reservation about the writers (and regime's missions) choosing to promote Sri Lankan tourism without looking at the 64-year old brutality minorities and intolerance.
07:57 PM on 06/30/2012
Response to the correction

The more tourists travelling around the island the more the govt can not hid things. Tourists note what they do see and take this knowledge back home. With this new understanding they can support the general population by supporting petitions etc.
My own memory of my trip there, which was post the tsunami, and I was sickened to see churches rebuilt whilst the general poor population still lived in decaying tents. This was the sad experience I shared when I got back. I also highlighted the Channel 4 News reporting to my friends re the govt massacres.
If you were one of the many poor in Sri Lanka you would not be intoxicated by your own verbosity. They want visitors and the
money they spend.
07:54 PM on 06/30/2012
Jon, so nice to hear someone has enjoyed Sri Lanka. Thank you.
06:28 AM on 06/30/2012
When some of the Internally displaced persons(IDPs) have been languishing in camps their coastal areas have been sold to tourism developers. Some of those IDPs have even been dumped in cleared jungles to make way for tourists.
03:06 AM on 06/30/2012
If you are NOT worried about ethics and morals, there are more beautiful places you can visit. Esp. if you are a supporter of these cruel regimes you can have a good time in those places too.
I thought the ethics of tourism writers prevents you from promoting a country where such blatant violations of Human Rights are occurring. But I suppose when you write solely for making money who cares about Human Rights or Ethics?
Well done Karen. Hope you can explain your actions to your family and friends with clear conscience.
01:25 PM on 06/30/2012
Yoiu cannot blame the entire Huffington Post because of some writers famed for gossip writing.
02:04 PM on 06/30/2012
As you can see in the last line, I was only referring to Karen - not the entire Huffington Post.
11:47 PM on 06/29/2012
Sri Lanka is a very interesting place for tourists if they don't worry about how the ethnic minorities are treated:
No war, no peace: the denial of minority rights and justice in Sri Lanka, Report by Minority Rights Group International, 19 January 2011: ‘’.... The UN Independent Expert on Minority Issues should be granted an invitation by the government to visit the country in order to report to the United Nations Human Rights Council on the situation of minorities in Sri Lanka.’’

''But that truth cannot excuse human rights violations that currently afflict the nation as a whole; or for that matter obscure the looming threat of the cultural and political colonisation of the north by the Sinhala Buddhist majority'' - Biased and Prejudiced Collection on Sri Lanka, *Gananath Obeyesekere, Economic & Political Weekly, VOL 47 No. 04, 28 January-03 February 2012 (*a Sinhalese Emeritus Professor of Anthropology, Princeton University)
09:37 PM on 06/29/2012
Brilliant article! Must sees are also:
How the Rajapaksa Regime surpresses the media and kills journalists
The scene of the war crimes committed by the Srilankan Army and the LTTE
The missuse of moneys collected to help tsunami victims - best viewed in Hambantota
The deterioration of democracy - everywhere
How Tamils are harrassed in the north and east of this lovely island
And how stupid tourists bring even more money into the country so that the kleptokratic regime has even more to waste...
11:37 PM on 06/29/2012
I nearly lost my life to a tamil terrorist bomb blast,but unfortunately a friend of mine died,another friend who was returning to Colombo from Trinco was dragged out from the bus he was travelling & beheaded with a sword by the Tamil tigers,during the war there were so many bomb blasts that parents were not sure whether their children would return home,or the children were not sure whether the parents would return home after work,this we suffered for 30 stressful years,I am glad that at least we have a leader who had the spine to tackle the ruthless tigers,people talk about deteoration of democracy?Mr.Mahinda Rajapaksha scored over 60% at the polls,during the war corrupt politicians made money doing arms deals worth millions,I know this personally because one of the french arm dealer is known to a b'in law of a friend of mine who is married to a french lady,at least under Mahinda Rajapaksha except for some jealous rascals, people like me are at peace & safe.
12:04 AM on 06/30/2012
Yes, Three decades of peaceful struggle didn't get justice for the people. Naturally violent methods gradually developed as in many oppressive countries. It doesn't mean violence is absolutely right. The armed rebels wreaked havoc but that was nothing compared with the 64-yr state violence on ethnic minorities. LTTE were created and destroyed but the oppression goes on even today:

‘’A Sri Lankan cabinet minister has threatened with 'hundred more massacres' unless the island's Tamil population avoid following the politics of the main Tamil parliamentary group. The warning came during a news conference on the 8 June in Colom - Minister threatens Tamils with 'hundred more massacres', 18 June 2012
http://www.jdslanka.org/index.php/2012-01-30-09-30-42/politics-a-current-affairs/10-sri-lanka-minister-threatens-tamils-with-hundreds-of-massacres
08:26 PM on 06/29/2012
Thanks, Karen! Nice to hear good things about Sri Lanka, after all the fabrications of "Tamil refugees" who are trying to protect their 'refugee status' in the greener pastures of the West.
11:51 PM on 06/29/2012
The country is a very beautiful place. But the oppression of ethnic minorities by ethnic majority has been ugly:
Jayantha Dhanapala’s submission to Lessons Learnt and Reconciliation Commission(LLRC), August 2010: '' Each and every Government which held office from 1948 till the present bear culpability for the failure to achieve good governance, national unity and a framework of peace, stability and economic development in which all ethnic, religious and other groups could live in security and equality. Our inability to manage our own internal affairs has led to foreign intervention but more seriously has led to the taking of arms by a desperate group of our citizens. we need to rectify this bad governance. We have already missed several opportunities in the past. We need to have State reform; we need to have rule of law established; we need to ensure non discrimination amongst our citizens; we need to have devolution of power and a tolerance of dissent and a strengthening of democratic institutions.’’ (Dhanapala is a Sinhalese and was formerly UN Under-Secretary General for Disarmament)
01:18 AM on 06/30/2012
Only 5% of the population lives in the Northern province. 80% of Tamils are enjoying high positions, both in the public service and private sector, and live in the South. The govt spends 1/3 of the national budget for development in the North.... yes, this high percentage is due to reconstruction after the war, but I have not seen any country do this much to help the innocent Tamil people who got caught in the unfortunate war.

Yes, I agree the thug-based ruling has to stop. But this is not an ethnic problem: the government seems to repress any form of strong opposition, whether it is Sinhalese or Tamil, nowadays. Dhanapala has done a brutally-truthful review in the LLRC..., so much, that the US foreign department double-checked if the government actually released it (I doubt if any other country would have publicly released a report such critical of itself). So, credit to the govt for making it public, it is being translated to Tamil and Sinhala and going to be on the internet. So it is up for the Sri Lankan people to see if the government implements at least most of the LLRC - it will be impossible to implement all the recommendations in days of modern day terrorism.
06:27 PM on 06/29/2012
I like the way Karen introduces Sri Lanka to the readership as if the readers do not know how the regimes in Sri Lanka and Syria have been killing their own citizenry.

The write-up shows how the Sri Lankan Tourism is paying through noses to get someone write about Sigiriya (not Syria)

Where is the news of the day about the attacks on media and journalists.
12:31 AM on 06/30/2012
Sigiriya is beautiful, but Sri lanka and Syria are Killing Fields