25/08/2010 11:17 BST | Updated 22/05/2015 10:12 BST

Catwalk Review: Marc Jacobs A/W 2010

Marc Jacobs, New York Fashion Week autumn/wtiner 2010

Photo: Fernanda Calfat, Getty Images

DESIGNER: Marc Jacobs

INSPIRATION: Dorothy in The Wizard of Oz was the starting point for a collection that was at once demure and a bit haughty

Coats lined in fur; a refined plaid three-piece suit; cardigans and sweater dresses shimmering with sequins; a wool dress trimmed with mohair; a lightweight dress featuring an embroidered bow; a glamorous full-length silver sequin gown

All eyes were on the range of shoes: there were pointy-toed styles in ostrich; flat Mary Janes; leather ankle boots with disco-era stacked heels; tall lace-ups; in addition to the medium-sized envelope clutches, there were tan ostrich skin bags and oversized styles trimmed with fur

As we previously reported, no celebs, just fashion folk

WHAT WE THOUGHT: There's always an element of surprise to the Marc Jacobs show. One never knows what to expect inside of the New York State Armory on Lexington Avenue - only that the set will be spectacular. There were no bells and whistles this season, cardboard was literally stapled to the walls. The centrepiece was a large scale box, covered in brown paper. When the clock struck 8, exactly, Jacobs and his business partner Robert Duffy pulled the wrapping off to reveal the show's 56 models standing inside.

The models walked out one-by-one to a romantic remix of Over the Rainbow. The all grey opening looks (a popular shade so far this season) indicated that Jacobs wasn't going for his usual colourful hybrid mash-up, but intended to channel the menswear trend instead.

Initially serious, the mood shifted toward fantasy. It seemed almost as if a modern, professional woman was time travelling back to her childhood and her beloved games of dress-up as piece after piece became gradually more fanciful than the prior.

The grey series featured suits, flared skirts, culottes and a hybrid sweatshirt top. A number of looks featured mohair-lined suede. Coats - many of them decadently trimmed in fur - were a highlight of the show. The most playful ones were made of a sparkly see-through vinyl and featured fuzzy oversized collars.

The line was long: there were three-quarter length skirts and flared dresses that cut mid-shin (which was tricky even for the models to pull off). Slim-fit trousers contrasted with flouncy, princess-like frocks, like the finale piece, a voluminous silk taffeta daisy print gown. A little girl's dream dress ended the outing on a sunny note.

Check out the hair and makeup details from the MJ show.