11/09/2010 11:40 BST | Updated 22/05/2015 10:12 BST

Catwalk Review: Ruffian S/S 2011

ruffian spring 2011 new york fashion week runway show

Models on the Ruffian Spring 2011 runway. Frazer Harrison, Getty Images

DESIGNERS: Brian Wolk and Claude Morais for Ruffian

INSPIRATION: The fashion "frontlines" - women throughout history who inspire and "move the world closer to peace and equality," specifically Susan Travers, the only woman to serve in the French Foreign Legion

TOP LOOKS: Leopard print blouse with olive green tuxedo trousers

ACCESSORIES: Strappy gold heels by Manolo Blahnik

André Leon Talley (tapping away on his iPad), former Marc Jacobs flame Lorenzo Martone

WHAT WE THOUGHT: The Ruffian boys were aiming for a strong collection rooted in the tradition of gallant female characters. This translated to lots of military jackets with square pockets and gold buttons, many adorned with red and blue sash belts. There were also white button-down shirts with full skirts, a few tribal-print dresses, and soldier-worthy gold lamé trench coats -- if a soldier were allowed such a luxury!

Interestingly, it was the pieces that weren't driving the military theme home that were most interesting: a silk mousseline leopard-print blouse with tuxedo trousers; black dresses cut in satin that was made to look like camouflage.

Though they were thinking strong, the overall effect was rather tepid, which is fine. But, while garments can't always have a look-at-me quality, you don't want them to be completely bypassed either.