14/09/2010 14:24 BST | Updated 22/05/2015 06:12 BST

Catwalk Review: Jenny Packham S/S 2011

Jemal Countess, Getty Images for IMG

DESIGNER: Jenny Packham

INSPIRATION: Watercolour memories of moonlit balls and debutante decadence

TOP LOOKS: A deep V-neck nude jumpsuit dripping in silver beading screamed Blake Lively; a pewter cocktail dress with a cage of gunmetal beading had an edge; and light pink tulle gowns with rain showers of silver beading felt Oscar-worthy.

Grosgrain and rhinestone belts, chunky deco cocktail rings, shoulder-skimming silver chain earrings. The accessory we could do with a little less of? Nipples. They're everywhere this season!

WHO WAS THERE: Despite all the A-list names who have worn her dresses, Packham's show was absent of celebs. (Perhaps it was the early start time?) But an army of stylists showed in their place to call dibs on dresses for awards season.

WHAT WE THOUGHT: For her first New York show, the designer said she was excited to escape London's edgy impulse - and just concentrate on making beautiful dresses.

She accomplished her goal, though we thought the overall collection lacked the impact of previous outings. Still, there was much to love in the floaty hand-painted de Gournay silk gowns, the backless palest pink tulle dresses, and nude coloured separates awash in playful bugle beading.