15/02/2011 09:26 GMT | Updated 22/05/2015 10:12 BST

Catwalk Review: Peter Som A/W 2011/12


INSPIRATION: "The collection was truly about things my friends wanted to wear," the designer told our sister site StyleList. "It was about being polished and effortless with a touch of the unexpected. Loved the idea of Cindy Sherman 'Film Stills' series - everyday but heightened and with a touch of quirk."

TOP LOOKS: Winter floral georgette dress worn under a navy wool twill black fox coat; long-sleeved pewter sequin jersey dress; bright-pink skirt suit with sculpted ruffled detail at hips; disco-worthy slim-fitting sequin pants with white crepe top

ACCESSORIES: Ladylike heels (read: not too high!) in a variety of neon shades by Charlotte Olympia, which gave a punky edge to the gamine looks

WHO WAS THERE: Top fashion editors from Harper's Bazaar, Vogue and W; Bryan Boy

WHAT WE THOUGHT: Som stated that he wanted to appeal to his coterie of cool girlfriends, and several pieces certainly hit that target. The show opened with a safe but chic navy wool twill peacoat-and-pant combo and ended with a dazzling floor-length cobalt-blue sequin gown. In between, Som nailed that sweet spot of uptown sophistication blended with downtown appeal. He featured Oxford suits in bright pink, a floral jacquard dress that had a louche sack-like quality, sequin dresses and pants that were chic and not tacky (as sequin can sometimes be) and formfitting blazers that bore a sculpted peplum detail that jutted over the hips for a modern take on Dior's classic New Look.

Som's outerwear selection was also impressive, with the uptown-downtown aesthetic continuing via black or silver fox-fur paneling on the front or back of coats, including the front of a navy wool baseball jacket and the mink-lined interior of an army parka (slung over a bright-orange tweed suit).

The overall effect was a well-edited mélange of desirable pieces to which his cool-girl contingent will declare, "J'adore."

See our favourite looks in the gallery below:,feedConfig,localizationConfig,entry&id=982870&pid=982869&uts=1297761968