17/02/2011 09:01 GMT | Updated 22/05/2015 10:12 BST

Catwalk Review: Marc By Marc Jacobs A/W 2011/12

Jemal Countess, Getty Images

DESIGNER: Marc Jacobs for Marc by Marc Jacobs

INSPIRATION: Pulled-together disco-era 70s

TOP LOOKS: Anise-brown velvet leopard-print dress; black satin dress with striped beaded bodice; long raccoon-fur coat; the opening look, specifically the little metallic copper leather jacket.

ACCESSORIES: The leather-trimmed shoulder satchels were mostly classic, structured and sensible. Shoes included stacked-heel penny loafers and must-have shearling-trimmed wedge booties, already on every editor's to-buy list.

WHO WAS THERE: Editorial eccentrics Suzy Menkes and Bill Cunningham; recently appointed Vogue Paris editor Emmanuelle Alt; design guru Fabien Baron; Vogue Japan editor and blogger Anna Dello Russo.

WHAT WE THOUGHT: For a clue to Jacobs' MO this season, one need only look down. To the floor, that is. The runway was done up as a school gymnasium floor, in beat-up birchwood with colored-tape lines as if to delineate play zones. No, Jacobs didn't do workout gear, but the flooring could be seen as a reference to the designer's own high school days, during the disco era.

There was a pulled-together late-70s, early-80s vibe to the collection this time out. Personifying this Studio 54 feeling was sexed-up clubwear such as a slinky, reddish brown liquid-velvet leopard-print dress and the shiny copper leather blazer in the opening look. But there were also plenty of day looks: floaty, A-line silk skirts, wide-leg tweedy trouser suiting, fitted sweaters and silk blouses in the muted tones of the era.

There was some fantastic outerwear too. A classic, brown cotton belted trench came trimmed in gray fox fur. Another trench - oversize this time - was cut from an iridescent, army-green cotton (hello, wish list!). And the belted, full-length raccoon coat fit right in with all the fur out there this season.

There was so much to wear for all occasions in this collection. It might have been a trip down memory lane for Mr Jacobs, but the clothes felt just right for right now.

See our favourite looks in the gallery below:,feedConfig,localizationConfig,entry&id=983274&pid=983273&uts=1297933369