16/03/2011 15:42 GMT | Updated 22/05/2015 10:12 BST

Catwalk Review: HermèS A/W 2011/12

Luxury travel at Hermès. Photo: PA

:This was Christophe Lemaire's debut collection for Hermès.

INSPIRATION: Exotic travels, Hermès style.

Lemaire's ability to fuse masculine and feminine aspects was apparent in loosely belted oversized overcoats, leather parkas and double breasted tweed jackets, while floor-skimming kaftans summed up the relaxed, elongated silhouette. Lemaire didn't stray too far from the traditional Hermès palette, with ivory, tan and biscuit tones dominant with flashes of brick, teal and tangerine.

ACCESSORIES: Leather cyclist caps were and hard-cased shoulder bags were slung around the neck like binoculars.

When the announcement came at the end of last year, news that Lemaire was moving from his role at Lacoste to the luxury leather brand were met with trepidation. Lemaire said that his shows for Hermès will be far more pared-down than those of his predecessor Jean Paul Gaultier's dramatic runway presentations. For his first show he (thankfully) stopped short of showing a collection of polo shirts, but the mood was certainly restrained. True, it was a beautifully put together, but you could not help but feel that Lemaire was a bit hesitant. Now that the first show nerves are out of the way, he's got a solid platform from which to make bolder steps next season.

See our favourite looks in the gallery below:,feedConfig,localizationConfig,entry&id=990924&pid=990923&uts=1299819852