17/03/2011 14:17 GMT | Updated 22/05/2015 06:12 BST

Catwalk Review: Giles A/W 2011/12

Sumptuous embroidered dress abound at Giles a/w 2011/12. Photo: Getty

DESIGNER: Giles Deacon

Giles wanted to explore the idea of femininity and sexuality just bubbling away under the surface, calling his collection "austere, not austerity. I thought about the nineteenth century obsession with female hysteria; something buttoned-up, but at the same time with something completely wild lurking underneath." He also looked to the glamour of a golden era. "I liked the idea of the fin de siècle and the Belle Epoque; of decadence, uncertainty and a golden period, with the notion of something new beginning from something old."

TOP LOOKS: Gone was the overt comedy of Giles' last collection, and, in its place, a host of sumptuous black and monochrome looks, enhanced with swathes of goat hair, in brocade and leather textures. When he veered away from dark and mysterious, swirling print 70s-inspired dresses in mustard and turquoise stood out, particularly the striking maxi dress. And the dramatic, high-necked embroidered black dress was a highlight. Elsewhere, leather-bound waists and Edwardian high necks nodded to the subtle sexuality narrative.

ACCESSORIES: Carried on the buttoned-up theme, and shoes were a mix of ribbon-laced ankle-boot peep-toes, while hair was enhanced with oversized bows.

WHO WAS THERE: Pixie Geldof, Mary Portas, Leah and Natt Weller.

WHAT WE THOUGHT: If we were sad to say goodbye to the fun, cartoonish gestures of last season, we happily said hello to a sleek, yet dramatic and sumptuous autumn collection that's as wearable as it is visually stimulating.

See our favourite looks in the gallery below:,feedConfig,localizationConfig,entry&id=985873&pid=985872&uts=1298457030