13/02/2012 12:51 GMT | Updated 22/05/2015 06:12 BST

Exclusive Interview: Backstage With Jenny Packham

WHO? Brit designer and royal/red carpet favourite.

Jenny Packham Autumn/Winter 2012 collection Femme fatales: The finale of the Jenny Packham Autumn/Winter 2012 collection. Photo:AP

IN A NUTSHELL: "It's all about femme fatales and film noir this season," Packham told us in a backstage interview. " I read Strangers on a Train and that just sparked my obsession with the films and books. I just loved it how women like Lauren Bacall and Lana Turner would be in some grungy cafe with a convict, but they were done up to the nines in shoulder padded dresses, white turbans and dark lips. There is something fabulous about how completely overdressed they were." Is there a modern version of these women? "Angelina Jolie", she answered without hesitation.

BEG, BORROW OR STEAL: We loved the abundance of wide shoulders and cinch-waisted evening gowns. The backless nude halter jumpsuit with its gold beaded collar was just the thing for a sultry leading lady with dark morals.

VERDICT: It felt like there was a tussle on the runway between Packham's natural tendency toward chic, elegant + grace, and her tougher, darker side. For our part, we like it best when the bad girl won out, but sadly this didn't happen quite as much as we'd have liked.