Taking The Jubilee Biscuit

The 1950s, the decade of the Queen's coronation, was a time of austerity, rationing, and simplicity in the baking stakes. From malted date cakes and cherry bakewells to pillow soft finger rolls, shortages meant that food was on everyone's minds.

The 1950s, the decade of the Queen's coronation, was a time of austerity, rationing, and simplicity in the baking stakes. From malted date cakes and cherry bakewells to pillow soft finger rolls, shortages meant that food was on everyone's minds.

And with yellow street signs popping up across London alerting us to road closures so neighbourhoods can turn into Jubilee party hosts, supermarkets and shops are packed full of a generous helping of culinary nostalgia. We might not quite be returning to mustard and custard powder - although the latter is delicious added to a biscuit mix - yet it's not far off.

I can generally get on board with any celebration that is centred around a food fest, but as the Jubilee approaches, have we not, on this occasion, gone just a little bit over the top?

No groceries seem to be safe from the Jubilee makeover. Even M&S's chocolate insect staple, Colin the Caterpillar, has not escaped the regal touch with a chocolate crown and splash of red, white and blue sprinkles. Now, I might not be the best judge as I spent the day of the Royal Wedding having a long breakfast in an eerily quiet Clerkenwell celebrating the fact that I could get a table without queuing, rather than lining the streets or glued to the television. But if the sales figures of the ingredients list for Heston Blumenthall's seasonal offering for Waitrose is anything to go by (the store has now quadrupled its supply of whipping cream) the Jubilee seems to be taking over. .

Everyone from Lyle's golden syrup and Kingsmill (or Queensmill as it will be known this summer) to Marmite's Ma'amite are flying the flag, but it's not the food itself that I'm objecting to. Nothing beats a true British classic: a slice of Victoria sponge dripping with fruity jam to accompany your afternoon cuppa, jam sandwiches on crusty bread, or a dollop of colourful jelly - which is now not just the preserve of children's parties thanks to the jellymongers Bompas and Parr who have taken the wibble-wobble to a whole new level.

There's no denying that Coronation chicken sandwiches, glistening iced buns and celebratory trifles bring a comforting and indulgent sense of nostalgia to the table but do we really need all of this memorabilia? Tea caddies, mugs, and cookie cutters (to name just a few) are all emblazoned with Union Jacks and the Queen's face. Has the marketing machine just gone that little bit too far?

Celebrate the best of British foods on your long weekend, cook your Victoria sponge cakes and scones, but stay clear of the patriotic memorabilia. And if you really need a royal fix, go for the HRH The Ginger gingerbread man from the Biscuiteers.

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