25/08/2010 07:30 BST | Updated 22/05/2015 06:12 BST

Derek Lam A/W 2010: Backstage At New York Fashion Week

Laura Kenney

MAKEUP: Tom Pecheux for Estée Lauder
HAIR: Orlando Pita for Moroccanoil
NAILS: Jin Soon Choi for Esteé Lauder
SNAPSHOT: Ethereal cowgirls

THE SCOOP: Derek Lam's a/w 2010 collection, "Myth of the West" was an ode to the modern cowgirl, with makeup and hair that portrayed combined strength and delicacy.

This runway show marked Estée Lauder's first fashion week collaboration, led by new creative makeup director Tom Pecheux. Backstage was a testing ground for the high impact colours he created for autumn, a departure from Lauder's trademark neutrals. We spotted some bright green shadows and pretty fuchsia blushes at Pecheux's work station, but the look at Lam was all about the blues.

Pecheux used two shades, a navy and a royal blue, on the lids, with metallic copper shadow along the lower lashelines and again on the lips to tie the look together. "The navy eye creates a powerful look, but we are blending really well, so it's a continuous wash, versus a graphic shape," he told us. The lips were spotted with lip colour as a base, then brushed with the same copper shade used beneath the eyes. " When you do strong eyes, you need a lip that balances them," he said. " Using a lipstick in a tone that ties in to an aspect of the eyes will do that."

"We're going for a textured, wispy, very ethereal look," said hair stylist Pita, as he spritzed tresses with light hairspray, and brushed it through the hair. "It's quite soft, we're layering with hairspray, letting it dry and then brushing it out. The effect on the runway will be soft and full of movement."

Nails got a wisp of colour, with an as-yet unnamed shade by Estée Lauder. "The eyes are so smoky, so we wanted a clean look on the nails," explained Choi. "They are very sheer and natural."

Laura Kenney

GET THE LOOK - MAKEUP: All makeup by Estée Lauder. The eye makeup, used on both eyes and lips, is new for a/w 2010. Brush the royal blue shade from lash lines to browbones, then apply the navy blue shade, arching from the inner corner of the eye up to the outer corners of the brows, blending well so there are no divisions between the two shades. Line lids with Double Wear Stay-in-Place Eye Pencil in Midnight Blue, and top eyes off with Turbolash All Effects Motion Mascara in Black. Apply a light layer of Pure Colour Crystal Lipstick in Crystal Beige, with a dusting of copper shadow on top.

GET THE LOOK - HAIR: Blow dry hair, then spritz with Moroccanoil Hair Spray, let it dry, brush through with a paddlebrush, and spritz and brush again (an again) until desired fly-away effect is achieved.

GET THE LOOK - NAILS: A new Estée Lauder shade of sheer, milky white with subtle sparkles.