25/08/2010 07:31 BST | Updated 22/05/2015 06:12 BST

Thakoon A/W 2010: Backstage At New York Fashion Week

Thakoon models Courtesy of NARS

MAKEUP: Diane Kendall for Nars
HAIR: Eugene Souleiman Wella
NAILS: Kim D'Amato of Priti Polish
SNAPSHOT: Modern dancers

THE SCOOP: Thakoon's a/w 2010 collection is inspired by Chopinot & Gaultier's Le Défilé, a dance troupe that collaborated with Jean Paul Gautier for costumes in the 80s and early 90s. "I was inspired by the costumes used in this show and wanted to create a collection that reflected that same era but without the goth element," said designer Thakoon Panichgul.

With such a strong focus, the hair, makeup and nails were kept fresh and simple. "We kept the makeup very natural and luminous," said Kendall. Her focus was strong brows, ("After seeing no brows for so long it's refreshing to do them again"), along with structural neutrals, to convey depth and boldness without fighting the intricate textures and layers of the clothing.

The look for hair was a "destroyed blowdry," matte and bed-heady, with "savage texture," thanks to loads of baby powder sprinkled in, said hair stylist Martin Schmock.

Nails were naked-looking, but played down with a matte polish so there was zero reflection on the runway. "Thakoon didn't want any attention on the nails, so we took away any chance of shine," said D'Amato.

GET THE LOOK - MAKEUP: Create a strong brow using Nars deep brown Coconut Grove Single Eyeshadow (new for a/w 2010), with a little Bali Single Eyeshadow swept on top. Highlight eyes with Portobello Duo Eyeshadow on, and underneath, the eyelid. Use Tzarine Duo Eyeshadow (a gorgeously sparkly taupy-grey and pale gold duo new for a/w 2010) on the eyes; the golden shade as a highlighter on the browbone, the grey shade very lightly on the lids for pretty definition. Cheeks were defined with Douceur Blush (new for a/w 2010 or try Madly Blush for a similar effect) and lips were made matte and nude with Tashkent Pure Matte Lipstick (new for a/w 2010).

GET THE LOOK - HAIR: Pick a few sections of hair and curl them to create an imperfect wave. Then, spray a bit of talcum powder into the hair and rustle it around to create matte texture.

GET THE LOOK - NAILS: File nails short and polish with Priti Polish in Pretty Loves Matte.