A Man Of Appetites: The History Of Fish And Chips

One long hot summer in the early 90s, I had a summer job in a fish and chip shop in Lyme Regis, Dorset. One lunchtime, an elderly customer from the North East came in and asked for "a large bit o' cod". Nothing we had prepared was big enough for him and so in the end we battered him an entire loin of a whole cod - a foot long piece that would have normally been cut up into three portions - and served it with chips, peas and a mug of tea.