05/03/2012 17:12 GMT | Updated 22/05/2015 10:12 BST

Backstage Beauty: Etro Autumn/Winter 2012

A model backstage at the Etro Autumn/Winter 2012 collection A model backstage at the Etro A/W 2012 show. Photo:Getty

"The inspiration is Slutty Equestrians," announced Charlotte Tilbury backstage at Etro. "The look fits in with the boyish trend which is very big this season."

An interesting point of reference, but what translated was really something quite beautiful. Think thickened, bold eyebrows, "like Carine Roitfeld's," she explained: "It's a very handsome look." The brows were a key feature to the Etro face, with the arches accentuated, and using a pencil one shade lighter than each model's natural hair colour.

"It's all about contouring," she continued. The peaks of the cheeks were illuminated with Mac Shine Mixing Medium, while underneath the cheekbones were contoured using Mac Pro Sculpting Cream in Copper Beach and Coffee Walnut (coming soon).

Meanwhile for eyes, the effect of eyeshadow was created with Mac Eye Pencil in Coffee, combined with Mac illuminating Strobe Cream, which was blended over the lid. Leftovers were smudged underneath the eyes along the lash line.

While no foundation was used, concealer was used "strategically" (i.e. when needed), while 10 girls - who were wearing trousers on the runway - sported a strong 80s chocolate lip, with a textured "old-fashioned" lipstick finish. The girls hitting the catwalk in Etro's new season dresses however, wore a completely nude lip.

And for hair? "It's a bit like a horse's tail," (there's that Equestrian reference again), all slick, restricted and gelled down at the roots - using a combination of Wella hairspray and gel - and exploding freely at the ends, with subtle crimping used for added volume and texture.

"It's all about restriction and perfection, but in a very feminine way."

More from the Etro collection below: