14/08/2014 16:37 BST | Updated 22/05/2015 10:12 BST

Five Makeup Trends To Know About For Spring/Summer 2014

In the depths of winter, writing about Spring/Summer 2014 feels a little premature. Yet in fashion and beauty, it's time to focus on the new season's trends - it's all about staying one step ahead.

Aside from splashing out on a whole new wardrobe, the easiest way to embrace the current runway looks is with makeup.


So - what's new for S/S 14? At Mac's trends presentation, the brand's director of artistry Terry Barber summarised the key makeup trends from the New York, London, Milan and Paris shows.

"Makeup is interesting and dynamic this season," Barber said. "There's a return to femininity - health and sportiness were the two words that artists used everywhere backstage".

Here's a few more things to note before spring arrives:

1. It's a skincare season
Get your serums, primers and BB creams at the ready. In keeping with the season's healthy, sporty glow, skin looked real and radiant at the S/S 14 shows. Barber described it as "skin photoshop" and explained how he applied moisturiser (not foundation) with a makeup brush backstage, to achieve that fresh, luminous finish. "The days of Nineties coverage are gone," he confirmed. "It's more about transparency and the resurfacing of the face."


2. Blush is back
At Proenza Schouler, makeup artist Diane Kendal summed up the look as "raw beauty" while at DKNY, Charlotte Tilbury focused on "glamorous, bohemian, hippie." They key product? Blusher. "It's come back with a cooler vibe," said Barber. "It's influenced by the outdoors - it's rugged". So - is it a bronzed look or rosy and flushed? Although there were references to the sun and sand at the S/S 14 shows, it's more about peach and pink tones. In the words of makeup artist Tom Pecheux, the complexion is "summery, gorgeous and glowing."


3. Choose colours that brighten
Cool, soft lilacs and peaches were mixed with warmer flesh tones to lift and brighten the face. At Holly Fulton, makeup artist Andrew Gallimore created a 70s lavender watercolour wash on the eyes with a "blurred" finish and at Prabal Gurung, Charlotte Tilbury's "otherwordly beings" had lilac and acid orange lips that popped against the rest of the face.


4. Wear white
The modern take on sportiness was achieved with the cleverest beauty trend of the season - light-reflecting makeup. How was it done? With flashes of white. "Glazes of whites and lights on the high points gives the cheeks an immediate contour, without adding any colour," Alex Box explained backstage. Although white might not be the first choice over favourite eyeshadow or eyeliner shades, the results are amazing. For inspiration, look to Kenzo's zinc white liner (it references the crest of a wave) or the brilliant pure white eye contrasted with a matte red lip at Altuzarra.


5. Timeless eyes
The androgynous brows of seasons past have been replaced with a softer, feminine shape and with this, comes a celebration of eyeliner and lashes. "It's about the balance between attitude and sophisticated," said Barber. At Missoni, Lucia Pieroni reversed the feline flick with a graphic line drawn around the shape of the eyelid, while at Paul Smith, it was all about the young Jane Birkin. As Val Garland explains, "It is the real side of the decade rather than the glamour vibe of the Sixties that is relevant here." And don't forget about the lower lashes - "The 'Twiggy effect" always needs the perfect bottom lash," said Diane Kendal backstage at Carolina Herrera's show.


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