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Vogue Paris Runway Report: Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2013-2014

The vibe in Milan was thick with these heavy fabrics, elegant, elongated cuts and timeless silhouettes, but some designers like Karl Lagerfeld, Donatella Versace and Peter Dundas contrasted the main themes, presenting rock inspired collections dedicated to the folky feel of the 1960s and 70s and the 1980s punk movement.
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Vogue.fr: the international reference for fashion and style

Vogue.fr: the international reference for fashion and style
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While the fashion pack has migrated north for the start of Paris Fashion Week, Vogue Paris takes a look back at the top collections shown during Milan Fall/Winter 2013-2014 Fashion Week.

The hub of Made in Italy design welcomed the fashion crowd with swathes of fur, mysterious 1940s glamour and rock looks from the ages. As woollen coats appeared at Jil Sander and Marni, film noir heroines from the 1940s starred on the Prada and Bottega Veneta runways.

The vibe in Milan was thick with these heavy fabrics, elegant, elongated cuts and timeless silhouettes, but some designers like Karl Lagerfeld, Donatella Versace and Peter Dundas contrasted the main themes, presenting rock inspired collections dedicated to the folky feel of the 1960s and 70s and the 1980s punk movement. Vogue Paris bundled up for the Milan chill to give you a rundown of the best looks seen on the Italian catwalks.

Look through our favourite looks from Milan below, and see the rest of the shows on Vogue.fr.

By Quinn Connors

The Vogue Paris Review of Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2013-2014
Dolce & Gabbana RTW Fall/Winter 2013-2014(01 of12)
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Dolce & Gabbana's cardinal red, ornamental rosaries and religious icon prints were a premonition to the recent media focus on the Catholic Church. Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana designed a collection inspired by the celebrated Byzantine and Venetian mosaics found in Sicily’s Cathedral of Monreale, and dressed their Byzantine queens in shining gold tiles, bejewelled crowns, black and red lace dresses and artful hand beading.
Prada RTW Fall/Winter 2013-2014(02 of12)
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Miuccia Prada presented a “mix of rich and poor” looks marked with an elegant yet dishevelled air. The Hitchcockian styles featured classic woollen fabrics and standard prints like stripes and gingham checks with wide necklines that slipped from models' shoulders and showed their décolletages.
Emilio Pucci RTW Fall/Winter 2013-2014(03 of12)
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Rock goddesses stepped out of the 1960s and 70s and into the Emilio Pucci Fall/Winter 2013-2014 collection. Contrasting the retro femme fatales seen at several Milanese shows this Fashion Week, models appeared with a long fringe and hair loose at their shoulders wearing folky pieces including pony skin over-the-knee boots paired with short hemlines, and big fur coats hung over creamy pastel prints or neutral frocks with swirling embellishments.
Fendi RTW Fall/Winter 2013-2014(04 of12)
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For Fall/Winter 2013-2014 on the Fendi catwalk, sober cuts were brightened with a punk rock flare as creative director Karl Lagerfeld alluded to the PUNK: Chaos to Couture exhibit being held this spring at New York's Costume Institute at the MET. Covered literally from head to toe in fur, models appeared in fox-fur Mohawks wearing pelts decorated with neon stripes and shapes, and carrying vibrant fur-trimmed bags.
Emporio Armani RTW Fall/Winter 2013-2014(05 of12)
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Giorgio Armani presented a playful collection with which he wanted to “lighten up winter” and move away from the standard dark colours and heavy fabrics of the season. In a palette of pastels and peacock-coloured patterns, models arrived as triplets and twins wearing cloche hats that topped off garçonne styles from the 1920s, and hobble skirts reminiscent of Paul Poiret.
Bottega Veneta RTW Fall/Winter 2013-2014(06 of12)
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Marked by the runway return of model Raquel Zimmermann who opened and closed the show, the Bottega Veneta Fall/Winter 2013-2014 collection exuded 1940’s glamour – a big trend for the fall seen all over the Milan catwalks. The Bottega Venetafemme fatales came out in retro curls, ruby lips and sculpted wool ensembles created by Tomas Maier who played with cuts, accentuating shoulders and hips, and cinching and dropping waists.
Gucci RTW Fall/Winter 2013-2014(07 of12)
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Strong looks dominated the Gucci runway for Fall/Winter 2013-2014. The collection emitted a certain sex appeal with cinched waists and strong shoulders made from python that hugged models' bodies, which then gave way to a finale of colourful gowns bringing to mind fantastic birds-of-paradise.
Versace RTW Fall/Winter 2013-2014(08 of12)
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Donatella Versace created a collection of body-con, slick leather looks that contrasted with the oversized styles seen on many of the Fall/Winter 2013-2014 runways. Her mainly black palette was punctuated by yellow and red, as well as wild animal prints and textures. The show finished on a sensual note with gowns featuring cut and sliced details revealing skin and following the curves of Cara Delevingne, Andreea Diaconu and Kasia Struss.
No. 21 RTW Fall/Winter 2013-2014(09 of12)
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On the No. 21 runway, preppy styles in dusty pastels took on a casual, relaxed manner thanks to slightly oversized fit and slouchy cuts. Aymeline Valade, Bette Franke, Nadja Bender and Suvi Koponen wore Oxford shirts buttoned all the way up and tucked into low slung cropped, pleated trousers and pencil skirts. The boyish looks still held some femininity with certain ensembles embroidered in sequins or encrusted in Swarovski crystals.
Marni RTW Fall/Winter 2013-2014(10 of12)
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The Marni Fall/Winter 2013-2014 collection walked out of a beautiful forest and set an “austere but romantic” feel for the show. Consuelo Castiglioni presented coats in heavy wool and mohair, nature-print duchess satin dresses and colourful fox furs on a background of grey suiting material, all while playing with peek-a-boo details, exposing shoulders and showing off legs with pleats turned skirt slits.
Jil Sander RTW Fall/Winter 2013-2014(11 of12)
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Elegant cuts created the sombre Fall/Winter 2013-2014 collection. In a palette of dark, wintery colours with touches of mustard and cornflower blue, the elongated hems and belted waists made for a crisp, quiet autumn at Jil Sander.
Moschino RTW Fall/Winter 2013-2014(12 of12)
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The Italian label went Scottish for Fall/Winter 2013-2014 with a collection decked in tartan checks. Designer Rossella Jarini also incorporated influences from American style icon, Ann Bonfoey Taylor whose ski and equestrian successes were hinted at throughout the collection.
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