18/09/2013 09:11 BST | Updated 18/11/2013 05:12 GMT

Doing the Mash

Danish food is good. Copenhagen boasts Noma, the world's best restaurant and anyone who's been to Denmark lately will be able to tell you about the brilliant work being done in kitchens there. I have and I can.

Then there's the British capital's current love affair with steak - not exactly new, but revolutionised in the past few years. Steak is my wife's favourite food, so any time I can get her to a good purveyor of said flesh, I'm all for it.

So I was intrigued when I heard you can get a taste of Denmark right in the middle of Soho at a London branch of the well-loved MASH (Modern American Steakhouse), which is already king of the hill in Copenhagen.

Housed in the carcass of the old Regent Palace Hotel on Brewer Street, the space is cavernous, art deco features giving the place the air of a classic (but posh) American diner.

We sat on banquettes in a booth - an excellent way to eat any kind of meal in my opinion - though the enormous space does mean a slow day makes the experience feel a little lonely.

To be honest, that didn't really matter once the food got going. Our enthusiastic waiter showed us different cuts of meats from Denmark, America and Uruguay, explaining the difference in flavours.

We plumped for a Danish sirloin and New York strip, the lean nature of the latter contrasting nicely with the more unctuous former.

Sides of chilli fries (not the US version of chips covered in con carne), macaroni cheese, fried jalapenos and a slightly redundant salad ordered in the futile name of health joined our simple plates.

And we weren't disappointed. The Danish cut had a gamey, almost roast beef quality to it, whilst the strip was like butter, lighter in flavour but perfectly cooked. I'd like to say more, do the usual thing of delving into metaphor and simile in a bid to describe every fibre of our meals. But what's the point? It's steak - honest grub - and when it's done well, no other explanation is necessary.

Our accountrements were solid if a little unspectacular. The mac and cheese could have done with more oomph, whilst the chillis needed to revel in their unhealthiness more.

We shared profiteroles filled with crème patissiere for dessert, thick chocolate sauce ladled over. With those ingredients and delicate choux, it's difficult to fault.

The drinks were also excellent. Much is made of the wine selection and the house choice was good, but I chose to have Brooklyn lager, decently-priced for this part of town and ice cold. There's also the fantastic Anchor Steam available. Even if you aren't coming here for food, the luxuriant New York-style bar is a great venue to bring a date or just kick back with mates. We weren't in when the crowds are, but one thinks there might be a free table.

Whether for a full feed or just a flying visit, we plan to go back.