Both Alexa and I are so inspired by our 60's girl crushes and eye looks so it was lovely to see Pat McGrath updating the decade for Dolce Gabbana, Versace and Gucci in Milan. McGrath referenced Sophia Loren for the make-up at Dolce & Gabbana, "it's all about the brow, lashes and liner," she cried echoing my own personal mantra! Teamed with dewy skin and a pale pink pout this is a universally flattering look and easy to recreate. At Versace it was all about doubling up on falsies enhanced with a tight liner look nailing the 'clean glamour' that Donatella required. For Gucci it was falsies top and bottom channeling Britt Ekland and at Prada, McGrath ditched the falsies altogether and piled on the mascara in gloopy coats for a perfectly imperfect clumpy finish.
In Paris make-up maestro Tom Pecheux loaded up on liner for mod 60's eye that sealed the much coveted collection Heidi Slimane's created for Yves Saint Laurent. It's an easy look to steal as we've all got liner and mascara in our make-up bags plus it's a universally flattering make-up look.
Coloured liner, especially blue, shows no signs of abating as spied at several NY and LON shows this season. Giles Deacon scored a coup with brown-eyed girl Kendal Jenner smouldering in fierce 80's blue eyeliner applied in a chunky strip beneath the eyes teamed with a bold brow, nude lip and mussed up hair that perfectly complimented the mostly mono chrome collection. Like true 21st century girls Kendal gave the look a thumbs up in a backstage selfie whilst Cara Delevigne filmed herself on the catwalk to share live on Instagram. Graphic blue liner was key at Temperley and Marques Almeida painted on in cobalt squares on the outer corners and smudged over lids at Julien MacDonald. For Todd Lynn, make-up artist Sharon Dowsett chose Prussian Blue brushed above the crease and over brows as well as brow bones and ice blue was the shade of choice at John Rocha. Spring is the perfect time to try a pop of colour on lids, if bright blue is just too 80's for you stick to chic navy which has the added benefit of brightening the whites of your eyes for a wide-awake look.
SOOTY AND SWEEP
Despite the collection featuring every shade of blue from cobalt to navy, black was the colour of choice for make up at Top Shop Unique ringed around the eyes Margot Tenenbaum style with minimal fuss and straight locks, hair slide optional. Just like the clothes the make-up was super-wearable and easy to master. More black eyeliner was on show at Jean-Pierre Braganza with a tough take on our favourite cat eye. Make-up artist Terry Barber added two fierce strokes to the lower lash line and as with every other 'all-about-eyes' look left the rest of the face bare only adding a subtle hint of pink to lips and cheeks keeping the make-up the right side of pretty.
Marcus Lupfer showcased another favourite, sooty liner, complimenting the 60's vibe where make-up artist Lucy Burt gave each girl a bespoke liner look from kitten flick to sultry kohl rimmed eyes.
GREEN IS THE NEW BLACK
Green was the new Black on both sides of the pond seen at Antonio Berardi, House of Holland and Derek Lam. At Berardi make-up artist Lucia Peroni smudged emerald green ringed around the whole eye, adding a dab of vaseline to give it a worn in, 'deconstructed' finish. Completed with bushy brows "part Brooke Shields, part boy," for a look that was cool downtown New Yorker but also sweet because Antonio's mother always wears emerald green liner showing that liner love is always in style.
A winged out, colour wash of deep dark green was the look at House of Holland with lashings of mascara and more full brows balancing out the look making it more rebel less lady teamed with graphic hot pink and lilac nail art. We saw a similar hazy jade eye at Derek Lam demanding attention against an otherwise neutral complexion, bare lip and natural nails.
It was evident that the brow love was still going strong as make-up artist Lisa Eldridge teamed thickened brows with a lived-in lip echoing the Robert Palmer 'Addicted to Love' girls for the Katy Grand styled Grace show featuring a collection of LBD's or Little Grace Dresses. Using light strokes of NEW Eyeko Brow Liner and brushed through with Eyeko Brow Gel boosting lashes with a lick of Eyeko Black Magic Mascara and corner lashes from the soon-to launch Eyeko Lash Wardrobe for a sultry tilt.
Brows were also gelled up and feathered in at Roksanda Ilincic, Margaret Howell and JW Anderson. Ofcourse with Brit Brow Mascot Cara Delevigne in town for LFW there was plenty of brow love to go round at Mulberry, Burberry and Giles Deacon.