There is a worrying atmosphere of revenge in Turkey these days, a vengeful willingness to oppress the oppressors. Turkey's culture war is swinging the other way after almost a century of secular rule. Just how far Erdogan's project to reshape the republic will go is anyone's guess, but he will definitely have to watch his back trying.
What now? Is it too much to hope that Erdogan will stop and reflect and change course domestically. Sadly the coup came exactly after he had done a u-turn on foreign policy towards Russia and Egypt, though not on the renewal of the war against Kurdish armed nationalists. So it is most unlikely. It will legitimate more authoritarianism. Nor will our new Foreign Secretary, having insulted the man for trivial reasons, be able to make the slightest difference or influence him.
The military coup, if we can call it that was an elaborate and dramatic development that benefits one man and his supporters. When will he learn to include the other fifty percent of the country, the one that supported his rise to power because they viewed him as the best of a bad bunch believing his promises of peace and security.
I have been here before. It was half my lifetime ago, but I remember sitting in these very same chairs when I was 15-years-old, waiting to buy tickets for the ferry to spend a vacation on the Greek islands with my friends. Now, hundreds of people are waiting in the departure hall at gate E1 in Piraeus port. They have been waiting for weeks, for months, not to go on a holiday, but to find a safe place for themselves and their children.
The mountains of Northern Cyprus were formed by earthquakes centuries ago. The ridge has kept the rain that sweeps across the Mediterranean from falling any further south. The landscape on one side is considerably more rich and green than that on the other. The trail drops down on each side and it offers two strikingly different landscapes, both harbouring a wide variety of wildlife. Foxes and in my case snakes.