I leave the region with all the usual feelings, heavy feelings, the same ones people much brighter and more eloquent than me have described through the years. I just have one small, unfurling seed of optimism; knowing that if water could be disentangled from the war, it presents a genuine opportunity for co-operation and relationship building between neighbours. In all the gloom there is a glimmer of hope and it's right there, in the water.
Today, some powers and principalities are trying to lure the MENA genie back into its bottle - with brutal force, lavish financial inducements or political shenanigans. But this genie is cunning: it has tasted freedom outside the bottle and sees its own world with different lenses. Its instincts cannot easily be tamed back into the bottle!
Whilst Susiya might not seem like much, take a short history lesson in Susiya's struggle, and you'll understand why it is so important to its residents, why it has become the poster child for Israeli oppression, and why it is a test case for whether activists can change the policy of conservative Israel.
For Iran, all segments of its society would welcome the lifting of sanctions and an important step towards ending the international isolation. The country has always denied any intent to build nuclear weapons but a successful agreement would also deny them the capacity to do so. It may pave the way towards new hope in a troubled region.